NEW - Brocock Bantam and Daystate Red Wolf - New Shooter

I got back from South Carolina yesterday and at work today I had these waiting for me.

I bought the Brocock Bantam in .25 Cal and upon receipt it had an air leak, so back to AoA for repairs. I hadn't shot it at that point. The scope is at home and I'll get it remounted.

I also got a wild hair and bought a Daystate Red Wolf wood, .22 Cal HP, with a Hugget and Aztec Scope. It sure is pretty. Now to run some pellets through them, I'm sure they are very different from the Red Ryder I shot last.

Smitty
 
AoA sent three different pellets for the Red Wolf and one size for the Bantam. So I've never shot Pellet rifles prior, so let the learning begin.

Looks like I'll need a compressor or tank. My work has a 6,000 PSI air or nitrogen compressor, so I can fill either from it. I know the nitrogen is very dry, does that cause any issues with the life span of the parts or rifle itself?

The wood work is beautiful on the Red Wolf and the Bantam is very nice as well. Thinking about getting some Gold Testers Model paint and filling in the Daystate lasered areas as well as the ones on the Bantam.

Smitty
 
Congrats Smitty on two wonderful air rifles! I have had/have both of those.. The only reason I let go of the Bantam Hi-Lite Beech .25 was to apply some additional funds toward the Red Wolf purchase. The Red Wolf .22HP is in a class all its own! What a trigger, what a side lever action, what versatility with 3 power levels, and what accuracy! 

With my RW .22HP I'm settling into using 18.13 gr JSBs on LOW POWER (for about 150 shots on an air fill) and 25.4 gr JSB Monsters on HIGH POWER (for about 85 shots on an air fill.).

My next exploration will be shooting the 21.14 gr H&N Baracuda Match pellets on MEDIUM POWER. These pellets performed exceptionally well in the Red Wolf .22 Standard that I previously had, so I ordered an ample stock of them and really look forward to seeing how they do in the .22HP.

I'm sure you will want at least one air cylinder, or more likely TWO... to be able to CASCADE FILL in TANDEM, and get the most use out of each cylinder's remaining air - when the cylinder pressure drops below your maximum fill pressure on the rifle. The way this is done is you use the cylinder with the low pressure status to "bulk fill" your rifle's bottle as far as the cylinder can take it pressure-wise, then you use the higher pressure cylinder to top off the rifle's bottle, up to maximum pressure in the rifle. In this way you can maximize the air pressure in your cylinders when their pressures drop below the maximum that you wish to fill your rifle with. Does that make sense?

Beyond that, having access to a high pressure compressor is a blessing indeed!

Enjoy the fun of this awesome hobby!
 
Smitty... here is how "cascade" filling works: (re-written, for clarity, from another internet source)

To get the most rifle bottle fills possible out of their air cylinders, air gunners often use two air cylinders, in tandem, cascading them, so that they are able to fully top off the airgun bottle many more times than if they had a single air cylinder to refill from.

Let’s say your rifle’s air bottle has a 250 BAR capacity. When your Omega (or other brand) storage air cylinder reaches around, let’s say 200 BAR, you really need to think about getting it refilled it, as your cylinder can only refill your rifle’s bottle up to the pressure remaining in the cylinder: 200 BAR. 

If you want to refill your rifle up to its 250 BAR capacity, the air that remains in your air cylinder (now at 200 BAR pressure) is air that you can't really “use" (beyond 200 BAR) because it doesn't have the pressure to fill your rifle beyond the 200 BAR pressure that it contains.

If you have two cylinders, however, you can actually use them to MUCH more advantage than having just one, by a technique called "cascading". 

What is done to get the “cascade advantage” is use only cylinder #1, as long as it can completely fill your airgun’s bottle to the pressure you desire, let’s say that’s 250 BAR. Once the air cylinder’s pressure drops below 250 BAR, it can no longer completely fill your rifle to its capacity of 250 BAR. If your air cylinder drops to 200 BAR, it can only fill your rifle’s bottle up to 200 BAR - not the 250 BAR that it is capable of holding.

Now, you use cylinder #1 to “bulk fill” the rifle’s bottle from whatever level it is at (let’s say 150 BAR) up to the pressure that cylinder #1 has available, perhaps that’s 200 BAR at this point.

Then, you use cylinder #2 to just “top off” the airgun -taking it from, say, 200 BAR up to the 250 BAR that you desire. In this way, minimal air is used from cylinder #2, which has for the time being become your “higher pressure” tank.

So, when cylinder #1 is below 250 BAR (or whatever is your max fill pressure), just use it to “bulk fill” your rifle bottle from 150 BAR (or whatever pressure you start to refill your airgun) all the way up to whatever pressure remains in cylinder #1. 

Then, only use cylinder #2 to "top off" your rifle’s bottle up to your desired fill pressure, perhaps that’s 250 BAR.

For each fill now, just use cylinder #1 to get as much “bulk air” into the rifle’s bottle, before you switch over to using cylinder #2, just to “top it off” to maximum pressure.

Eventually, you'll get to the point where cylinder #1 is so low that you'll only use cylinder #2 to fill your rifle. But by that time, you've drained cylinder #1 MUCH lower than you could possibly have drained it if it were your only available air cylinder.

In this way, you get the MOST ECONOMICAL use out of the air that you have put into your air cylinders.
 
DHart,

Thanks that makes perfect sense. We have a boat load of 6,000 PSI Nitrogen Bottles around with regulators on them, might borrow one if they didn't weigh 200 pounds. 

I put the scope back on the Bantam, and set the eye relief. The Bantam really handles well, single handed hold in my shoulder. Moving it around it smooth, not to long in length. I'll be setting up a night scope using a Back Up Camera setup. Hopefully I can do some pest control at some of the local (less than 2 hour drive) farms. The rifle weighs more than my 30-06, which is a sub-moa rifle. I've held 5 shots in under 1" at 200 yards with it and 4 of the shots were less than 0.75".

The Red Wolf .22 HP is LONG, and has a heavier feel. Slower to shoulder and move around, definitely a bench or support shooting. Love the trigger, pulled it a few times without firing. The Cocking lever is super smooth. Need to set the eye relief and make some adjustments to make it more comfortable to shoot.

If the Lord wills and the creek don't rise, I'll have them out this weekend and put some rounds through them.

Smitty
 
Here is the .25 Cal Bantam, I wish I could work with wood to make it so pretty.

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And here is the Red Wolf in Wood.

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and the front end.

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Smitty
 
Yes, the Red Wolf, especially HP version, is a very long and heavy rifle - a bit unwieldy (comparatively speaking), but quite well-suited to the bench!

Your semi-bullpup Bantam, on the other hand, is great for mobility and maneuverability. Very versatile. It can shoot well from the bench also. 

It’s great to have these two, as they are so different and meet different applications very well. You chose well with the pairing!
 
If you have Nitrogen tanks around, you are all set. Just get cheap carbon fiber firefighter tank from eBay rated to 4500PSI, fill from Nitrogen tank and you are good to go.

CF tank with expired or close to expiration hydro date, you can get for way less than $100. You don't have to worry about hydro because you will be filling by your self.

Those tanks have 15-year lifespan, but now more and more getting extension to 30 years. It means they are safe to use.

Get one made in 2002-2005, not badly beaten, some can be almost new, but because it needs special hydro certification after 15 years, those are sold cheap
 
If you have Nitrogen tanks around, you are all set. Just get cheap carbon fiber firefighter tank from eBay rated to 4500PSI, fill from Nitrogen tank and you are good to go.

CF tank with expired or close to expiration hydro date, you can get for way less than $100. You don't have to worry about hydro because you will be filling by your self.

Those tanks have 15-year lifespan, but now more and more getting extension to 30 years. It means they are safe to use.

Get one made in 2002-2005, not badly beaten, some can be almost new, but because it needs special hydro certification after 15 years, those are sold cheap

Just because "You" are doing the filling doesn't remove the safety aspect of hydro testing your gear. Personally speaking I couldn't even imagine what one of my large stand up tanks would look like if it ever detonates in my garage. High pressure air is no joke and when not respected will blow you to pieces. Spend the few bucks to do it safely. 
 
You can read a bit about those tanks and what kind of abuse those are exposed at fire stations.

Do you think DOT issued extension to 30 years without doing extensive test and without checking what chance is tanks are not safe after 15 years and would explode? 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_El-4k7xds&feature=youtu.be

Not exactly scientific test but still...