Tuning New Artemis p15 dropping fps

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montana1 said:
At the end i will do that
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To service the regulator does not take long. The first time you open the rifle it is just a little strange for someone who never opened a PCP but after first time it is quite easy. After the air is out of the tube, it takes me less than one hour to open and clean everything, open the regulator, clean it and put it together with new O-rings. That is if you have all the required O-rings at hand. The original O-rings will be swollen and can be a little hard to remove and if you damage it, don't worry, you are anyway going to replace it. Just make sure there is NO - NOTHING - ZERO dust anywhere otherwise it will leak again. Even a very thin dust hair will cause it to leak. Use a plastic pick to remove the O-rings or even better buy a proper smooth O-ring pick set, you are going to use it in future as well. If you scratch the surface where the O-rings are supposed to be, it might cause a leak, so don't use sharp objects like a sewing pin.

Good luck and ask again if you struggle.
 
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Search youtube for P15 videos. There are some good tear down reassemble videos out there that will help. They helped me even though my P35s are not identical to P15s. Most PCP issues seem to be O-rings and next in my experience is too much or too little lubrication. Nothing expensive to cure. You will need some silicone grease for the O-rings and O-rings. You should have received a set of O-rings with the gun and I suggest your order more and better ones from Mr. O-ring. Your degassing screw is at the hammer spring end of the airtube on the side.
 
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Below the magazine is the chamber containing the hammer spring and hammer. In front of that area is where the valve is but it should be sealed from the hammer spring area pretty well. The small steel shaft the valve is attached to is hit by the hammer and protrudes into this area for this purpose.

I would take the hammer spring adjuster all the way out, that requires removing the action from the stock (two screws). That will let the spring come out and you will be able to see clearly into that area. The hammer won't drop right out, you will have to take the screws out that hold the trigger group to the action off and then the hammer will come out too. None of this requires bleeding off the air. Seems like the area definitely needs to be examined.

Could it be water? Thick material is possibly silicone or regular grease. That should not be there in any significant quantity at least. Dry lubricant is recommended by most for the hammer. If it is gummed up maybe that is part of your issue but it wouldn't explain a regulator problem. Seems like something to look into and probably correct but not your biggest issue. I still think you have to degass and remove the regulator to solve a regulator that has apparently stopped working. That could be from an abundance of silicone grease in it but that grease should not be getting past the valve into the hammer spring area.
 
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JimD said:
Below the magazine is the chamber containing the hammer spring and hammer. In front of that area is where the valve is but it should be sealed from the hammer spring area pretty well. The small steel shaft the valve is attached to is hit by the hammer and protrudes into this area for this purpose.

I would take the hammer spring adjuster all the way out, that requires removing the action from the stock (two screws). That will let the spring come out and you will be able to see clearly into that area. The hammer won't drop right out, you will have to take the screws out that hold the trigger group to the action off and then the hammer will come out too. None of this requires bleeding off the air. Seems like the area definitely needs to be examined.

Could it be water? Thick material is possibly silicone or regular grease. That should not be there in any significant quantity at least. Dry lubricant is recommended by most for the hammer. If it is gummed up maybe that is part of your issue but it wouldn't explain a regulator problem. Seems like something to look into and probably correct but not your biggest issue. I still think you have to degass and remove the regulator to solve a regulator that has apparently stopped working. That could be from an abundance of silicone grease in it but that grease should not be getting past the valve into the hammer spring area.
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Removed the hammer spring all out and its dry just some black dust from pellets i think?
I cleaed with a tissue .
The head of the valve right under it i saw a very small drop of silicone grease or oil at one edge (I think from factory) .

Will go further checking this is my 1st time working on a pcp.

17155595139084936021134732159334.jpg
 
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Looks a lot like the Huma in my Caiman. You need snap ring pliers to take off the snap ring and look at the bellville washers. In my Huma they were caked in silicone grease. I agree, that looks like a lot for the adjuster screw area but I don't understand what issue it would create. Having the bellville washers coated caused my velocity to be somewhat erratic, I think. My regulator stopped working because the one O-ring on the adjuster screw did not have enough silicone grease on it and failed, I think. I changed it, flipped the white plastic disc that is on top of the bellville stack sealing the hole to the adjuster area and the regulator worked. I would change the O-rings on the adjuster screw of yours even though they look OK. You do not need visible globs of silicone grease on them but they need a thin film of silicone grease. I would also flip over the plastic disc over if there is one on top of the bellville stack. A new one would be even better but at the time I did not have one and I assume you do not for your P15.

I would also take a picture of the washer stack before you disassemble it. You will want to put them together the same as the factory. If they look OK, you don't have to disassemble the stack. You could just flip the disc, change the O-rings on the adjuster and see if you are successful.
 
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