Need help with my suppressor

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Jerome, it is apparent to me from your posts, that there is an alignment issue with your rifle's shroud/air stripper construction. If that is the case, a different moderator will make no difference. I don't know why you haven't returned this rifle to the seller. 

Regarding the POI shift from 13 to 23 meters, that is normal. Your rifle's scope rail places it high above the bore. If on zero at 13 meters, the pellet's trajectory will place it well above your point of aim at 23 meters, which is what you are seeing. Usually, a zero of around 20 to 25 yards is practical with most air rifles. 


 
Upvote 0
Thanks you i will try to zeroing the scope at 23m next time!

i didn’t return the airgun because the shop is at 150km from my home.. it’s my first airgun so I don’t realize that it has a problem when I buy it and I had it for 5 months now..

i contacted umarex Europe that told me to contact a dealer in Belgium but due to the lockdown here I haven’t received any response from the dealer.

I don’t understand why the accuracy is fine without the suppressor? The pellets don’t clipping the end of the moderator now that I have remount the shroud.
 
Upvote 0
Couple days ago I was setting up my sight on a new FX Impact, with a lazer bore sight.

So I mounted the laser normally (how everybody would do) in the muzzle hole, at 20 meters in my basement I projected a dot on a cardboard sheet and moved the crosshair to the dot, but didn't liked the idea how far shifted the scope assembly too much to the right. So I removed the shroud and repeated the lazer but now directly into the barrel hole.

The lazer projected a dot to about 3" Right and 2" High now. This made me thinking that the 3 threads on the compensator (M10x1 for the barrel end, M27x2 for the shroud aluminum tube, and the 8mm ID hole of a muzzle) not following a single centerline. Of course not because these features were done in at least two setups - two operations.

On the machine during the cutting operations maybe the rounding error is acceptable (lets call it within 0.1mm) but when we project that same centerline to 20 meters or beyond the rounding error shows up.

Back to OP, so you sort it out the clipping, the POI you just reset in your scope and you will be fine until next time remove the barrel for whatever reason. But ones you here, you can do indexing the barrel and that will make you happier. And don't fothet to mark the barrel position at the very end.
 
Upvote 0
Couple days ago I was setting up my sight on a new FX Impact, with a lazer bore sight.

So I mounted the laser normally (how everybody would do) in the muzzle hole, at 20 meters in my basement I projected a dot on a cardboard sheet and moved the crosshair to the dot, but didn't liked the idea how far shifted the scope assembly too much to the right. So I removed the shroud and repeated the lazer but now directly into the barrel hole.

The lazer projected a dot to about 3" Right and 2" High now. This made me thinking that the 3 threads on the compensator (M10x1 for the barrel end, M27x2 for the shroud aluminum tube, and the 8mm ID hole of a muzzle) not following a single centerline. Of course not because these features were done in at least two setups - two operations.

On the machine during the cutting operations maybe the rounding error is acceptable (lets call it within 0.1mm) but when we project that same centerline to 20 meters or beyond the rounding error shows up.

Back to OP, so you sort it out the clipping, the POI you just reset in your scope and you will be fine until next time remove the barrel for whatever reason. But ones you here, you can do indexing the barrel and that will make you happier. And don't fothet to mark the barrel position at the very end.
Click to expand...

I understand your case and it’s hard to believe when you see the price of a fx airgun , in mine it’s not the fact that poi change if I unscrew/screw the compensator that is annoying but the fact that a compensator of 5centimeters long is hit by a pellet just a the end of a 60centimeters barrel.. it’s crazy!

I never had touched to the barrel, it was screw from factory.. I have just unscrewed the compensator and the shroud but the barrel it’s fixed to the main part of the airgun.

i should try to shoot without the shroud... just’the barrel naked and then try to shoot with the compensator mounted to see if something change perhaps 🤔




 
Upvote 0
Hello,

I have some news with my moderator, cause of the covid19 I can’t send it back to warranty for the moment but it’s waiting there.. looking at me so.. I have try something!

The umarex neo k3 moderator have 3chambers inside, I dismounted it and just get off the 2 plastic separation inside and let the 3 coton roll, so it was just a unique big chamber and.... BAM it’s just fine! The sound is not as quiet as the 3chambers but it’s a bit better than without moderator!

Then I try to make one plastic separation at the back so from barrel to the end: roll/roll/separation/roll and it’s still OK with one big chamber and a second smaller at end!

I think that the airflow from the barrel is very very powerful because when I shoot, my chronograph at 1m’from the muzzle shake under the air pressure from the muzzle.


Do you believe that a DonnyFL Sumo can drive all this airflow?
Because with their system I can’t modify anything.. it’s just one piece of plastic from the beginning to the end.. 🤔 so it will work.. or not!

Thanks for your help!



Jerome
 
Upvote 0
I had this same issue. What you need to do is find a straight dowel even a section of stainless rod that is perfectly straight, smaller than bore diameter is best. then wrap some tape around it to make it just snug in the bore. do this on the end of the rod that will go clear to chamber area, but still in bore. Mark the rod at the end of the muzzle, and put tape again to snug fit one inch behind the marked area. then do one more right in the center inside the barrel. Basically your making a bore guide. then assemble the stripper and shroud back on the gun. Slide the rod carefully back into the barrel. now check your end alignment. the rod should be centered in the end of the muzzle opening if not you have an alignment issue. You can then make sure the rod ( bore guide ) is long enough to reach the end and a few extra inches of the moderator. put the moderator on carefully. Now you'll probably find the rod touching or mak be able to tweak it some as you tighten it into place. I the bore guide doesn't center then it is beyond repair unless by a machinist to get things back straight.



I just had this same issue with the umarex gauntlet and destroyed an LDC due to clipping. Made my bore guide and the problem was apparent. was touching the bore guide at the exit of the moderator. Found the the ends of the shroud were out of square. on top of that, the .25 cal barrel band putting excess pressure on the shroud due to it also being shifted out of alignment due to a larger bottle, and it pulling the bottle joint and flexing it, changing the angle of the barrel band. If the accuracy suddenly goes to crap and cant group with a LDC.Moderator installed. I'd almost bet 100% that you gun is clipping.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu