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Tuning need help with Beeman HW70

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follownoone

Member
Sep 10, 2021
20
4
PA, United States
Hello,



I have a 35 yr old Beeman HW70 air pistol. It has worked fine for years and still shoots strong, but it is having a major problem with latching at the end of the cocking of the barrel. Sometimes I can get 10 shots in a row with no issues, but then it bucks at the end, won't latch and may take 3 or 4 tries to finally get it. It is rough on the hand fighting it.

I suspect the sear? Or springs? Awhile back I had a new piston seal put in and the mainspring was fine at that time. It was doing it before the seal was put in so I do not think it is the spring.

Chambers has the sear springs and the torsion spring but they are a little pricey.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Gary
 
Hi follownoone 

I wonder if we are having the same problem? My problem has to do with the trigger. Occasionally it fires, but doesn’t completely release the triggers mechanism. Then it won’t cock until I pull the trigger again?

I’m going to see if I can spot what’s going on, by shooting it, then when it happens, rather than pulling the trigger again, I’ll break it down and see what I can see. 
 
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I have had that happen before also but it is really not the current problem I am having. Mine does not want to latch at the end of the stroke. Then the spring tension opens it back up and you try again and maybe it latches or not. It happens almost every time and I have stopped shooting it because of this. I have two R7's I shoot so it is not the end of the world as they are fun to shoot. I suspect mine is either torsion spring related or sear is worn. The parts seem too expensive to fix as I can only find them from Chambers.


 
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I think you may have a bad sear spring. #CS558. I’m going order a new set of all the trigger and sear springs, but they’ll have to come from the UK.

87DDDBE5-15D7-4C4C-84DA-BBAAD36E8882.1637878969.jpeg

 
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Mine does the same thing as your video. I will have to take the stock off again and look at what I need. Part of the reason I did not want to keep spending money on the gun is that I just spent 85 dollars on a new piston seal. I had a gunsmith fix it and it made a big difference as the power had fallen way off. I was hoping at the time it would have solved the cocking problem but it didn't. So I looked up the parts and the cost of shipping etc, and just felt maybe it was a little too much to put into an old gun. I do like the pistol though so I think I may get the few parts I need to see if that works. I do remember somewhere I saw a video about someone fixing this pistol and the spring you broke was mentioned as being tricky to get back on. If I order I will get those and the torsion spring. I probably should look at the sear also before ordering. I have time this weekend and may get to it.

I really appreciate your responses and help. Keep me posted on the results you find.

Gary
 
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I messed with it today and one of the CS558 springs was distorted and trying to reform it I broke it. Nice. It does not seem to be the issue though and the other spring was working. I took it out to shoot again and once out of every 3 or four shot cycles it goes back to not wanting to latch. Torsion spring and sear are suspect in my mind. When it fights you to latch it can be painful on the wrist. I have shot thousands of pellets through this gun so the sear may be worn.
 
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I bought an HW70 off Ebay and was totally worthless, needed new seals, so I ordered them from the UK, but getting the piston out required a lot more disassembly than their instructions indicated. Upon re-assembly I found the two CS558 springs had come out and I'm not sure where they attach. One of them broke while I was trying to put in on where I thought it should go (probably wrong) so now I've ordered two new springs. Could anyone take a picture of the bottom of the trigger assembly with the grip removed to show me where those two springs attach? I've got everything else pretty much assembled (except for inserting the spring and rear cap) and hope it will have some air pressure once I get the springs on properly.
 
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Hello Spydie,
Those springs mount as follows in the pictures. I had trouble with their orientation, (frontwards, backwards). I followed the wear marks on the lever to determine the spring orientation.

BTW changing all my trigger and sear springs had no effect on my HW70's issue.
I've just gotten use to pulling the trigger twice before I cock it.

Screenshot_20220826-074146_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20220826-074742_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20220826-074652_Gallery.jpg
 
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.20calguy said:
Hello Spydie,
Those springs mount as follows in the pictures. I had trouble with their orientation, (frontwards, backwards). I followed the wear marks on the lever to determine the spring orientation.

BTW changing all my trigger and sear springs had no effect on my HW70's issue.
I've just gotten use to pulling the trigger twice before I cock it.
Click to expand...
Do both springs go into that long bar from those two holes in the frame? If so, is there a spring on the trigger separately (which I don't seem to have or else I missed something when I put the trigger back in the frame). A top-down picture I think is what I need to see where the other end of the springs connect. I see one end of the spring(s) through a hole on each side of the trigger frame, but not sure where the other end goes unless they both go through the same hole on that long bar?
 
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.20calguy said:
Hello Spydie,
Those springs mount as follows in the pictures. I had trouble with their orientation, (frontwards, backwards). I followed the wear marks on the lever to determine the spring orientation.

BTW changing all my trigger and sear springs had no effect on my HW70's issue.
I've just gotten use to pulling the trigger twice before I cock it.

View attachment 285436

View attachment 285437
Click to expand...

spydie said:
Do both springs go into that long bar from those two holes in the frame? If so, is there a spring on the trigger separately (which I don't seem to have or else I missed something when I put the trigger back in the frame). A top-down picture I think is what I need to see where the other end of the springs connect. I see one end of the spring(s) through a hole on each side of the trigger frame, but not sure where the other end goes unless they both go through the same hole on that long bar?
Click to expand...
Hello spydie,
My last post needed some editing, but I didnt know how?
I'm sending a parts diagram with the numbers so that we can ID the parts we're talking about.
Yes the springs # CS558, conect to the two holes in the frame, and the other ends go in the one hole in the SR140. To orient the springs, (frontwards or backwards) look for wear marks from the original springs.
The trigger spring is a coil type, under the trigger adjustment screw.
BTW In one of my earlier pictures I sent this morning, I had the CS558 springs installed backwards.
The HW70 is an accurate little pistol. I shoot mine a lot. There is really no way to know how many rounds have been through this gun. I'm currently plinking at empty pill bottles, hanging from strings, at eighty feet.
They give a nice report, and action, and you don't have to set them back up.
👍

received_5537284009667266.jpeg
 
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.20calguy said:
Hello spydie,
My last post needed some editing, but I didnt know how?
I'm sending a parts diagram with the numbers so that we can ID the parts we're talking about.
Yes the springs # CS558, conect to the two holes in the frame, and the other ends go in the one hole in the SR140. To orient the springs, (frontwards or backwards) look for wear marks from the original springs.
The trigger spring is a coil type, under the trigger adjustment screw.
BTW In one of my earlier pictures I sent this morning, I had the CS558 springs installed backwards.
The HW70 is an accurate little pistol. I shoot mine a lot. There is really no way to know how many rounds have been through this gun. I'm currently plinking at empty pill bottles, hanging from strings, at eighty feet.
They give a nice report, and action, and you don't have to set them back up.
👍

View attachment 285563
Click to expand...
Yes, thank you very much. You have solved my problem for me. When the springs fell out I didn't have a good look at where they attached because I wasn't expecting it. I did look at the trigger today and was trying to figure out if I was missing a trigger spring, then I noticed I had not installed the CS560 trigger spring yet so I held it in the hole and that verified that was the spring the caused the rebound of the hammer. Right now I'm waiting for the two CS558 springs from the UK. I only needed one, but I figured if both ends of that one broke so easily, it was probably fatigued and the other one might break also so I ordered two springs even though I only needed one right now. And that's all they had in stock (otherwise I would have ordered 3 or 4 after I saw how easily they break). When my springs get here I can finish the assembly. Do you have any tricks for pushing the spring in with the rear cap ECP062 or is that going to be a fight? Darn, I just noticed the end cap on the grip (ECP068) that mine is missing. Wish I'd seen that sooner so I could put that on the order. This gun didn't cost me anything. I bought it on faith on Ebay and talked to the owner a couple times and he assured me it was in excellent working order. Upon getting it it wouldn't even push a pellet out the barrel until the fourth firing and then it would just fall out. I told him I was going to return it and he told me to just keep it and he returned my money. So I'll have about $75 in parts for it and I just hope with all new seals and new spring that it will shoot like new. The old seals were so bad you wouldn't even know they were seals.
 
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.20calguy said:
Good morning

Click to expand...
That rear cap removal tool is very clever. I used a large clip-ring pliers with 90 degree tips that I ground the round ends a little flat and that worked fine. That seal looked a lot like the one I took out of mine. Mine had two pieces of metal imbedded in it. How does this happen? Do people push things into the exhaust hole for some reason? I like the wooden tool you made to hold the body of the gun too. As soon as my new springs come from the UK I'll be back in business (I hope).
 
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spydie said:
That rear cap removal tool is very clever. I used a large clip-ring pliers with 90 degree tips that I ground the round ends a little flat and that worked fine. That seal looked a lot like the one I took out of mine. Mine had two pieces of metal imbedded in it. How does this happen? Do people push things into the exhaust hole for some reason? I like the wooden tool you made to hold the body of the gun too. As soon as my new springs come from the UK I'll be back in business (I hope).
Click to expand...
Someone at my shop got my pistol out and dropped a Dremel bit down the barrel, I assume as ammo. Then I assume that they pointed it up, and the bit fell into the chamber. Then they fired it doing the damage. The Dremel bit tip is broke off in the end of the chamber, where it had been stabbed by repeatingly firing it.
 
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.20calguy said:
Someone at my shop got my pistol out and dropped a Dremel bit down the barrel, I assume as ammo. Then I assume that they pointed it up, and the bit fell into the chamber. Then they fired it doing the damage. The Dremel bit tip is broke off in the end of the chamber, where it had been stabbed by repeatingly firing it.
Click to expand...
That's probably how mine had two different pieces of metal in it also. Such idiots.
 
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