Tuning Need help - RWS/Diana 48 Reassembly issue

I purchased a nearly like new RWS 48 on E-bay, though it was manufactured in 1992. I don't think it has had 50 pellets through it. The grease had all dried up and it was shooting 8.4s at approximately 1050. It was really dry and "scratchy" during the cocking cycle.

I bought it for a project gun. Totally disassembling it, I polished everything to where it is extremely smooth and shiny, installed all new seals, stripped the old grease, scrubbed the bore (not much lead but some oxidation). Re-lubricated all of the components and have it all ready to go back together.

I purchased a new Vortek PG3 sub 12 ft lb kit to install in it to tame it. Once installed properly, I think it will be super accurate, easier to cock, and not nearly as hard on scopes. The Vortek kit came with two thick shim washers. My goal was to get the rifle to as close to 12 ft lb of output as possible, shooting the 8.4s at somewhere around 800 fps. Everything went back together perfectly, except when I try to cock it, it won't lock all of the way back into battery,. I thought maybe the shim washers were causing the problem, took them out, still the same thing. I used dummy pins, but thought maybe I screwed up the safety spring and that was the issue, checked it, it seems to be ok. I have had it apart now at least a half dozen times, and don't know what to try next. There is about 1 1/"2 of preload on the spring compressor, so I don't understand why this issue exists.

Last week, I completely tore down my 56 and resealed and lubed it, with no issues at all, though I did go back with the original spring. I haven't tried to reinstall the original spring yet, as it is midnight, and I am going to give up.

Any thoughts as to how to remedy this issue from anyone experienced with these rifles would be much appreciated. I know Scott Schneider would know, and I am sure he would take my call as he has done a lot of tremendous work for me, but I hate to bother him.



DZ
 
Does it feel like it is cocking all the way back and just not latching or does it feel like it’s bottoming out early.

Sounds like you checked the safety. That one trips people up sometimes.

If you open it up again I would measure the spring and count coils and compare to the factory one.
I’ve had good luck Vortek kits. Might not hurt to drop them a line.
 
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Thanks, guys. The good news is that it wasn’t me. After 6 hours of sleep, I decided the next step was to put the original spring back in and see if the rifle would cock. As you can see in the photo above, the new Vortek spring is considerably shorter than the the original factory spring. It felt like the cocking cycle was bottoming out with the new spring.


Once the original spring was re-installed, with al of the other cleaning, polishing, and lube work I had done, the cocking cycle is now smooth, quiet, and perfectly complete.


I will touch base with Tom at Vortek on Monday.




 
Great service received from Tom at Vortek. He called this morning, responding to an e-mail I had sent Saturday am. 


He figured out over the phone that the top hat stem was too long. Told me how to diagnosis and trim it.


I followed his advice and am now headed down the right path. I will post the final tune results in a separate post.


Thanks again for all of your help.