Need help removing Akela hammer spring

doninva is correct, the hammer spring modification is recommended , that spring kit from AR does come with a new hammer spring that is shorter and stiffer than the stock spring and works very well. Theirs also a new hammer spring adjuster thats a huge improvement over stock as it accepts a 5mm allen instead of a flat head screwdriver. I feel like those 2 items alone were worth the 20 bucks . This would be your shot string with the spring kit , it'll give you something to gauge the reg performance against.

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I know very little about this stuff, but that shot string WITHOUT a regulator seems like it goes agaisnt the laws of physics! :) You are right in that it will be useful to compare to the reg, but I expect something less because I have not tuned a reg. before.
 
I know very little about this stuff, but that shot string WITHOUT a regulator seems like it goes agaisnt the laws of physics! :) You are right in that it will be useful to compare to the reg, but I expect something less because I have not tuned a reg. before.
I would suggest setting the Reg between 115 and 120 bar, this will give you a good balance between power and air efficiency. The tuning is going to be done thru the hammer spring and choice of pellets. Remember your air gauge will be off now because it's reading the pressure on the Reg not the air cylinder. Do your testing with the transfer port wide open so you get accurate numbers, that adjustment does not effect air efficiency by the way, only fps.
 
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I would suggest setting the Reg between 115 and 120 bar, this will give you a good balance between power and air efficiency. The tuning is going to be done thru the hammer spring and choice of pellets. Remember your air gauge will be off now because it's reading the pressure on the Reg not the air cylinder. Do your testing with the transfer port wide open so you get accurate numbers, that adjustment does not effect air efficiency by the way, only fps.
Sub 12 said his hammer spring needed to be cut to 54mm. I measured my stock spring and it was 90mm. Cutting it down to 54 seemed like a lot. What length would you start at? I was thinking maybe 60-65 might be a good starting point, but really have no idea. You can always cut them shorter, but, well you know.
 
That seems to be the norm for either set-up, then you would adjust it from there, your reg. pressure will effect the range of adjustment on the spring. If you set your reg over 125 bar you may not be able to back the spring out enough to get the velocity down. What I'm trying to say is that if your going to run a hot reg. take off a couple coils at a time till you get Below your desired velocity, then turn the spring in till you get what you want.
 
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I have extensive posts on shortening the hammer springs on Craftsman Series guns - both here and on GTA.

Keeping it ”short” and to the point:

.177 caliber - shorten the stock spring to 2.57”
.22 caliber - shorten the stock spring to 2.8”

If you plan to only shoot pellets 16g and LIGHTER, you can use the 2.57” spring length for .22 caliber. This will get you 90+ shots with a spread of less than 25 fps.

If you plan to shoot 18g and heavier pellets, you will want to use a 2.8” spring. This will give you about 70 shots with 16g pellets, and 55-60 shots with 18g pellets. (Assuming you will tune to the 860-885 fps range)

More info:

The stock hammer springs for .177 and .22 are identical - they are 3.5”
The stock hammer spring for .25 caliber is 4.25”

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That is what I referenced to do the job, and it worked great. I also had 3d printed this tool for my Dremel. I chucked up a grinding stone, and it worked really well to grind the face of the spring. BTW - I told Lane I wanted to shoot about 15 fpe with a .177 pellet. Looking again, there doesn't seem to be any calibrating marks on the Lane regulator.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3323294
 
I started with the Lane Regulator, my first string of 48 shots ran from 836 fps to 820 fps, Reg was set at 110 BAR. At the top of the Reg on the brass adjuster you should see a red dot, that should be lined up with one of the cuts on the valve housing. That cut indicates the pressure set point, each cut equals 5 BAR. Slide a small allen key through the hole at top of adjuster, turn adjuster COUNTER clockwise to increase pressure, CLOCKWISE to decrease. At the bottom of your paperwork it should say what the Reg came set at, just go from there.
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