Where to find tech support for the Avenge x . Diagrams schematics and of course teardown or rebuild video . Even someone with avenge x experience or guidance or a dealer that works on them. Slim pickens [no not the actor]
Air Venturi Need Avenge x info
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Product Schematics for Air Venturi Avenge-X Classic, Synthetic Stock | Pyramyd AIR
Check parts availability and price for Air Venturi Avenge-X Classic, Synthetic Stock
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This attached PDF diagram and parts list offers a bit more information than just using the Pyramyd Air drawings - not a lot more.
I have had my Avenge-X completely apart just using the two drawings - the parts order page at Pyramyd and the attached one.
Nothing was too complicated but I did make a driver blade to exactly fit the recess on two of the parts that required a lot of torque to remove so I wouldn't damage the slots
There are a LOT of o-rings and the attached file also lists those by dimension and each location - I had many dried out or damaged o-rings in various places and replaced as needed - in hind sight, I would replace all of them any time I have the gun apart. Several o-rings were deformed enough that the dimension in the PDF were very helpful in putting back the correct sizes.
I had a safety plug on the gun release at about 3400 PSI while filling - the sudden release seems to have caused several o-rings to blow out in that single event - the gun leaked many places afterwards - prompting the tear down.
Some o-rings are challenging to put on...
View attachment AVXTACT Diagram.pdf
I have had my Avenge-X completely apart just using the two drawings - the parts order page at Pyramyd and the attached one.
Nothing was too complicated but I did make a driver blade to exactly fit the recess on two of the parts that required a lot of torque to remove so I wouldn't damage the slots
There are a LOT of o-rings and the attached file also lists those by dimension and each location - I had many dried out or damaged o-rings in various places and replaced as needed - in hind sight, I would replace all of them any time I have the gun apart. Several o-rings were deformed enough that the dimension in the PDF were very helpful in putting back the correct sizes.
I had a safety plug on the gun release at about 3400 PSI while filling - the sudden release seems to have caused several o-rings to blow out in that single event - the gun leaked many places afterwards - prompting the tear down.
Some o-rings are challenging to put on...
View attachment AVXTACT Diagram.pdf
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Does anyone have information on how the Shroud Connector and Silencer is connected to the Shroud. I'm trying to remove it and the barrel. I'm not sure it matters but it's the Classic, Synthetic Stock model.
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The Silencer is screwed into the front of the Shroud. The Should will unscrew from the barrel. To remove the barrel there are several UTUBE Videos by AEAC. That show how to remove the barrel.
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Two different steps here - removing the barrel is super simple - there are two recessed set screws in the scope rail on top - loosen these two screws and the barrel is free to come out BUT - there is also a pin in the end to index the barrel - so it always goes back on in the same relationship to the block - you can not twist the barrel until you pull it forward enough for the pin to clear - the only other "attachment" is the barrel band which is a slip fit with an o-ring - but it can tilt enough to be hard to slide - keep a hand on the ring or even wipe a little silicone oil on the shroud to make it slide out easily. The alternative is to remove the screw in the forestock under the barrel band and slide it off of the gun first - either works - I have the bottle version of the classic and usually remove the bottle first anyway when working on it.
Second question is disassembling the shroud and barrel assembly - slightly more involved but still really simple - the shroud unscrews from the fitting on the back of the assembly and the front fitting unscrews from the baffle tube - there is a middle baffle inside that has set screws to hold it in a specific position - there are dimples on the barrel so you can put it back exactly - and the front of the barrel slides into the second baffle piece - I actually found it easier to loosen the shroud before removing the barrel from the gun - then it was easy to disassemble after removing it - The entire challenge in my mind is unscrewing both ends without leaving tool marks on the parts but they weren't very tight - soft jaw pliers or a healthy layer of tape worked to protect the pieces and holding the shroud tube by hand was sufficient.
You don't mention what you hope to do once the assembly is apart - I have worked on the port of the barrel (milled it to an oval equal to the cross section of the barrel) and I cut a precise crown on the end of the actual barrel - the cut and finished crown didn't seem to make much difference (but it made me feel better). The larger port in the barrel can't be done as effectively as if it was a new barrel being machined because its already a centered round hole - so you aren't able to do a split port with a small rail in the enter to support loading the pellets - if you make the port hole too large a diameter, pellets won't slide into the barrel - they will catch on the port or be damaged by the edges of the port - so smoothing the edges of the port inside the barrel is important to not shaving bits of lead off as you chamber a round. The larger port isn't particularly useful unless you also enlarge the port in the power selector - which can make it too weak - some have made a new one without the low power port which leaves more metal for enlarging the high power port - the combination of opening up both the selector and the barrel does allow for higher power but you will probably also need an additional external plenum to support the higher volume of air at high powers (it can be quite happy at 70 FP with a little work and tuning) and your shot count per fill will be significantly reduced at high shot pressures (can still get 40 rounds of .25 at 66FP from the bottle) Some pellets and slugs just will not behave at the higher velocities - Zan 26.5 slugs shot great at 45-50 FP but are +/- 5" at 65+ FP and 1040 FPS. A heavy hammer spring can open up more power but my 25 cal seems to group best around 55 FP - still experimenting with poppet valve, valve spring and lighter hammer hits. There appear to be a couple "sweet spots" but I have been trying to optimize for 100M - so only looking at the higher power, heavier pellet or slug options. I'm counting any 8 shot group larger than a quarter as "wide"
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