Need advice on HW80

[seven08]

I had my new 80 out today for some shooting. Conditions were ideal, no wind. The accuracy ? WOW !!!

The spring buzz? WOW!!! in the annoying sense. Not good. I may have to apply heavy grease like what comes with the Vortek springs real soon. I have 200 shots fired so far.

Any other solutions or suggestions from the 80 owners?

 

[DualMagMike]

You could run at least one or 2 tins through it and see what it's like at that point. If still that bad a strip down and polish the spring ends, add rear guide washer and smooth all sharp edges, next step up, TBT kit (guide & tophat) up from there full kit, Macarri, Vortek, etc. Up from there out for a full tune...

 

[bdzjlz]

Send it to John Thomas in PA for a complete tune. Don’t mess with yourself. Minimal investment for a lifetime quality firearm.

 

[ironlion269]

Just spitballing here but Tune In A Tube has been used to reduce spring buzz for years with good results. I bought heavy red tar as used on heavy machinery for lubrication and it was very effective in reducing the buzz in my Walther Terrus springer. Might solve your issue for much less cost

 

[aa_limited]

get a high quality tuning kit. and after market spring kit.. hone the spring. and apply light moly.

 

[WHITEFANG]

Shot in the dark on a true rear guide fit on a TBT. HAND made guides for each spring is the way to go. Unless you buy a spring kit. 

The twang will not imo go away. Tar can be used with the factory set up with out a tear down but may not completely make it go away. There are other ways to fix the problem but it's a getto tune using poly bottle material cut to fit the guide. It will work and last if done correct. I do not use this but have. Same thing can be used as a piston liner and is proven to work but again installed correct and correct thickness of material. Not the best choice per others but can be done on a budget.

I have built severl R1/HW80 and all you here is the 30mm piston sound that this big piston makes. I lathe all my guides and tophats to fit the springs of all rebuilds out of delrin and are 2 piece guides on the HW guns. Some use metal and has been noted that improper install can brake the delrin. 

The R1/HW80 have the rear threaded plug that houses the trigger group. Same as the R10. Removal of the plug is not bad but use caution. Install has a trick to reinstall so not to damage the super fine threads with the spring pressure. Safety removal has a small spring that can jump out and get lost. 

Barrel removal is required to remove the piston due to the cocking shoe design.

These are fine guns as most HW line guns

I use little lube of krytox on the power plant. Most of the factory piston seals are bad from install. The guns come with a mystery lube and for the most over lubed. JMO

 

[leadfoot]

I don't recall any buzz in my 3 year old R1 (HW80). I did go through 2 factory springs. One actually broke into 4 pieces. Then I put in a Vortek "power kit". It actually lost a half a foot pound, but it was a lot smoother, so I was happy. The kit came with some tar and it said to use sparingly. I did and maybe that's why It's so smooth now and maybe I just don't remember any twang with the factory springs. I'll bet a little tar on the spring would dampen any buzz out. 

You will need to make or get a spring compressor to put that back together safely. Here's a pic of the one I made.

 

[seven08]

Thank you all for your input. I ordered that Tune in a tube after watching a video about. I will continue to get two tins through it to see if it settles down. I do have a new Vortek spring and seal with that sticky grease it comes with. That did wonders smoothing out my Diana 34's. I was under the impression that a spring compressor was not needed to work on this model. Maybe this video demonstration is assembling the low power spring?

I have a home made spring compressor I could modify if needed.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9NBzJaOSKU

 

[WHITEFANG]

Resent video but never had one of the many allow for thevrear plug to be that easy. Had to be a low power or used spring. I use a sleeve to cover the piston seal to allow the piston to slide free not touching the threads. The threads can damage the seal. Plus there is a slot past the threads that can nick the seal. THERE is more to a proper rebuild than indicated in the video. The barrel shims install as shown depends on the forks. But making sure you install the barrel pivot bolt with both lock washers is a must. I always tighten the pivot bolt with the barrel shut and then test for proper barrel tension. Proper tension is important. 

Breech seal are soaked in warm water. Dried and installed. No lube. I for apply a dab of silicon on the face of the seal after install for the first shot. 

Breech seals install in one direction only. 

Go for it if you must. Piston seal should rotate on the piston. I pre test the piston seal prior to spring install. Block TP PORT, WITH piston fully on down stroke pull the piston slightly. The piston should spring back. Then move slightly down the tube blocking the to repeating all the way tonthe end of the stroke. 

Piston all the way back repeat method pushing the piston and the piston should push back. Same method down the length of the tube. I call this a vacuum and pressure test. Piston should not fall on its on down or if held upside down freely. Should not be any tight spots and have slight drag. 

High price lube the product your talking about. You can do the same thing with other good lubes. Red and Tacky will work just as well. Remember lubes get slammed forward and can migrate to the piston seal. JMO