My YONGHENG compressor final setup

[shauntsung]

I made several modifications on the Yong Heng:

1. I chose the 2 stage coalescing type water separator over the 3-in-one/molecular sieve type filter for 2 reasons: In a single stage separator most of the water is captured by cotton filter. Once the cotton is damped the water will be adsorbed by molecular sieve and saturate it in no time. There is no easy way to drain the water for molecular sieve except taking it out and dehydrate it. And molecular sieve can only adsorb water to approximately 14% of their own weight. If we fill up a 98cu ft tank in 50% humidity environment it contains roughly 33 gram of water that can saturate the entire tube of molecular sieve by one fill.

2. The bottom half is an CO2 laser cutter water chiller. $130 on eBay. This is the most cost efficient solution I can find for close loop water cooling. This way I can use distilled water to prevent corrosion inside the pump and not worry about contaminate the cooling water.

3. The second stage air tubing is another major heat source. I made a heat exchanger by bending the 1/4 copper tubing to closely match the contour of the air lines. Then wrap the air lines and copper tubing together with solid copper wires. Now the only parts that heats up more is the first stage cylinder and 60 Celsius isn't a real concern to me.



The whole set is on casters. Quite heavy with full water but I can still carry it around if I need to. 

 

[biohazardman]

More than excellent mods you have done! I think that the coalescing type water separator is great for those who have trouble with their molecular sieve type filters saturating and I would also highly recommend it if that is the case.

I religiously purge my compressor every five minutes and change out the Young Heng filter for a dry one every twenty or less. The three media molecular sieve cartridge, in my Tuxing filter, is just now, at just over a year of twenty minutes a week usage, starting to show signs of moisture getting to it. So I have as yet not invested in the coalescing type filter as it increases the needed runtime of the compressor greatly for every fill. My humidity is at 55-60%.

Since the Tuxing filter is showing signs of moisture now I added another Yong Heng filter on top so I will know when it is time to change the Tuxing filter out.

 

[JamesD.]

When were the thermal readings taken? At end of fill, off, still running? 


Great mods you did. Just wondering what the temp was without the closed loop chiller & with. I'm asking because too cold isn't good either. 

 

[bandg]

I made several modifications on the Yong Heng:

1. I chose the 2 stage coalescing type water separator over the 3-in-one/molecular sieve type filter for 2 reasons: In a single stage separator most of the water is captured by cotton filter. Once the cotton is damped the water will be adsorbed by molecular sieve and saturate it in no time. There is no easy way to drain the water for molecular sieve except taking it out and dehydrate it. And molecular sieve can only adsorb water to approximately 14% of their own weight. If we fill up a 98cu ft tank in 50% humidity environment it contains roughly 33 gram of water that can saturate the entire tube of molecular sieve by one fill.

2. The bottom half is an CO2 laser cutter water chiller. $130 on eBay. This is the most cost efficient solution I can find for close loop water cooling. This way I can use distilled water to prevent corrosion inside the pump and not worry about contaminate the cooling water.

3. The second stage air tubing is another major heat source. I made a heat exchanger by bending the 1/4 copper tubing to closely match the contour of the air lines. Then wrap the air lines and copper tubing together with solid copper wires. Now the only parts that heats up more is the first stage cylinder and 60 Celsius isn't a real concern to me.



The whole set is on casters. Quite heavy with full water but I can still carry it around if I need to. 

Nice setup. I don't believe "too cold" is ever going to be the problem with these units. Heat seems to the the killer. I've found that an external fan blowing across the cylinders can drop the operating temperature noticeably, even with excellent water cooling. I use a directional fan blowing across the cylinders and even with my iced cooling system running, turning on the external fan will cause a slow but steady decrease in indicated temperature.

 

[shauntsung]

More than excellent mods you have done! I think that the coalescing type water separator is great for those who have trouble with their molecular sieve type filters saturating and I would also highly recommend it if that is the case.

I religiously purge my compressor every five minutes and change out the Young Heng filter for a dry one every twenty or less. The three media molecular sieve cartridge, in my Tuxing filter, is just now, at just over a year of twenty minutes a week usage, starting to show signs of moisture getting to it. So I have as yet not invested in the coalescing type filter as it increases the needed runtime of the compressor greatly for every fill. My humidity is at 55-60%.

Since the Tuxing filter is showing signs of moisture now I added another Yong Heng filter on top so I will know when it is time to change the Tuxing filter out.

Yes the downside of two stage setup is it will increase the air build up time especially when you filling directly to a gun or small cylinder. For large tank refill it wouldn't be an issue. For the setup like yours also works well since the stock cotton filter will catch the most of the moisture and it's in a separate container. Just need to pay attention to the fittings on the stock filter, the cotton filter is usually damped and will slowly corrode the connector.

 

[shauntsung]

When were the thermal readings taken? At end of fill, off, still running? 


Great mods you did. Just wondering what the temp was without the closed loop chiller & with. I'm asking because too cold isn't good either.

It's read at the end of the fill with ambient/water temperature around 70 Fahrenheit /21 Celsius. The water chiller does not have any refrigeration ability so it's largely related on the ambient temperature. The high pressure air tubing can go up to 80-90 Celsius depends on the environment without any cooling method. I don't worry about getting too cold. The normal water temperature in my garage is 13 Celsius. I have seen a lot of people using ice cold water to cool it and still runs great.

 

[shauntsung]

I made several modifications on the Yong Heng:

1. I chose the 2 stage coalescing type water separator over the 3-in-one/molecular sieve type filter for 2 reasons: In a single stage separator most of the water is captured by cotton filter. Once the cotton is damped the water will be adsorbed by molecular sieve and saturate it in no time. There is no easy way to drain the water for molecular sieve except taking it out and dehydrate it. And molecular sieve can only adsorb water to approximately 14% of their own weight. If we fill up a 98cu ft tank in 50% humidity environment it contains roughly 33 gram of water that can saturate the entire tube of molecular sieve by one fill.

2. The bottom half is an CO2 laser cutter water chiller. $130 on eBay. This is the most cost efficient solution I can find for close loop water cooling. This way I can use distilled water to prevent corrosion inside the pump and not worry about contaminate the cooling water.

3. The second stage air tubing is another major heat source. I made a heat exchanger by bending the 1/4 copper tubing to closely match the contour of the air lines. Then wrap the air lines and copper tubing together with solid copper wires. Now the only parts that heats up more is the first stage cylinder and 60 Celsius isn't a real concern to me.



The whole set is on casters. Quite heavy with full water but I can still carry it around if I need to. 

Nice setup. I don't believe "too cold" is ever going to be the problem with these units. Heat seems to the the killer. I've found that an external fan blowing across the cylinders can drop the operating temperature noticeably, even with excellent water cooling. I use a directional fan blowing across the cylinders and even with my iced cooling system running, turning on the external fan will cause a slow but steady decrease in indicated temperature.

Agree. The 1st stage cylinder is cold enough for me. I am mainly using this in my garage where is much colder than my house. The cylinder just warm to touch after each fill.

 

[KMoses]

Never breaks 133F - 30min run time & fills my 100cuft. tank from 2000-5000psi - tray still has a bit of ice in it when done.