My Ultimate Springer Shootout is coming !!

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"Ziabeam"
"Wadcutter"It must be a relief that your newly acquired rifle has a recent rebuild. Finding new springs here in the states may be a task now that ARH has discontinued them.

I own two Giss-system airguns. The springs/seals had to be replaced in both. It did not seem too difficult on either gun. One is a Diana original 10 pistol and the other is a Diana 60T. If you can take apart a FWB 300 in your sleep the Diana 75 would be a breeze. The hardest part is keeping the springs from buckling during reassembly but there is a little trick to help with that(PM for that info if needed). The best advice to anyone is take lots of photos of trigger parts and other mechanics before disassembly or else have a very very good memory.

I am looking forward to the Shootout.

Steven

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Might take you up on the "info".
Have a Diana 75 T01 that shoots like a dream, a Diana 60T that was rebuilt just before my dad sold it to me (also shoots superbly), but my Winchester 333 (aka Diana) needs a rebuild, since red crumbs are showing and velocity has plummeted, meaning the original seals have failed.
Selling the 60T now that I have an HW55T.
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Joe, I hope you don't mind if I drop these links here.
Link to .pdf showing rebuild of the Diana 75 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Nu6UixbtYRY0MzNnl0WGNWYWM/view?usp=sharing
Link to .pdf showing rebuild of the Diana 60 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Nu6UixbtYRTE5PMXZGN05fWnM/view?usp=sharing
Link to .pdf I put together showing the clamp I used on my rebuilds https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Nu6UixbtYRS0tJcFZweG43c0k/view?usp=sharing
Using this clamp with the rod is the best way I have found to insert the rear piston and springs to keep them from buckling.
I do not recommend using this style clamp on any other type of spring piston air rifle. Especially the magnums.

 
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"ddransoml"@Jonnes...Man! no wonder I can't duplicate your 50 yrd groups with the N-tec, you're a fuq-n Match Shooter!
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Sure you can, it just takes practice and time. First of all, it took a while before my 340 settled in. But once it had, it all came down to holding the rifle the exact same way each time and because it does give a pretty powerful punch, and you need to take that into consideration. Be sure you let the rifle vibrate without any obstruction (sorry Joe, but the Artillery Hold is not total BS ;) ) and use a sand bag or the palm of your open hand preferably. Watch your canting, mind your trigger control and be consequent in where you place your hand on the stock and the finger on the trigger. Also be sure that have the right pellets, sorted them out selected by head size and weight. Being a match shooter only means that I've been training on doing the same exact thing all over again more than the average hobby shooter. Because in the end, shooting accurate is all about repeatability.

Next to being a match shooter, I used to be a weapons specialist, and eventually trainer in the military back when I had more hair and less beer belly, so I might have a slight upper hand here. But there's one thing I've learned in all those years. Everybody has the ability to shoot like a pro, as long as you know how to play the game. Accuracy is 70% shooter, 30% ammo/weapon related. That's what I also love about this forum, there are a couple of really great and experienced guys out here that willing to share that experience to help others become better at the game.

And Joe, don't exaggerate mate. You're giving me way too much credits. I'm little league compared to the real pro's. ;) 
 
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Was pretty dejected when my Diana 75 pooped the bed. Ordered several new breech seals from Airgun Spares. Shame on me for NOT routinely inspecting its condition. So friggin stoopid and avoidable. Thanks for ALL the help on sources and technical info for the rebuild.

While I wait for the 75's breech seals decided to reseal the Winchester 333 (aka Diana 65) since I already had a new set of springs and 3 sets of front seals and rear bumpers on the shelf.... waiting for my attention.

Got the 333 apart, and had an epiphany... it should be MUCH easier to rebuild than ANY account I had ever read anywhere. What appears to be the CORRECT method eliminates ALL the grief from the springs and needing eight arms to accomplish the task, with no need for 30" clamps either.

Will be starting a new thread detailing the process... and since this is the first GISS type action I've ever been inside, all I can do is hope the 75 has the same ease of rebuild.

The new thread will be titled ;
Diana GISS reseal for "THIS" Dummy
 
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Problem is EVERYONE seems to ignore the fine details in the manual or poo-poo's the take-down tool depicted, even claiming on some accounts that "experts" agree that the tool is marginal.

WRONG!!!

If they READ IT CLOSELY and used that tool PROPERLY they could rebuild, re-seal, re-spring the GISS rifles in their sleep like you and your 300's, even if they only had ONE ARM !! Seriously it's designed to be THAT easy !!. Every account I have ever read depicts people trying to assemble the idler wheels under spring pressure. The manual clearly states the idler gears and BOTH pistons can be in place with NO PISTON SPRINGS in the airgun. How the people that devised the pipe-clamp means of re-assembling the airgun befuddles me. True their technique works well, but still requires copious prudence to align and keep from cross threading the "hubcaps". The proper factory technique also requires a tool... one that LETS the entire procedure take place with no springs to quarrel with. EVERYTHING goes back together eazy-peazy with NO NEED for extra hands, and literally the final step is to insert the springs and 1/4 turn of the removable sleeve in the compensation piston captures all 3 springs.

Working on my own "tool" as we speak.
Sneak preview... hint... part of it costs a "NICKEL" ... see it ???


 
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Joe while a stronger spring can be put in, my main concern would be the slide feature. Me thinks the mass of the action and distance/speed at which the action moves is mathematically tied to the overall design, including the force of the stock spring. A stronger spring is likely to override those parameters, resulting in an abrupt end of travel as opposed to the nearly imperceptible one you have when stock.
 
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"Ziabeam"Problem is EVERYONE seems to ignore the fine details in the manual or poo-poo's the take-down tool depicted, even claiming on some accounts that "experts" agree that the tool is marginal.

WRONG!!!

If they READ IT CLOSELY and used that tool PROPERLY they could rebuild, re-seal, re-spring the GISS rifles in their sleep like you and your 300's, even if they only had ONE ARM !! Seriously it's designed to be THAT easy !!. Every account I have ever read depicts people trying to assemble the idler wheels under spring pressure. The manual clearly states the idler gears and BOTH pistons can be in place with NO PISTON SPRINGS in the airgun. How the people that devised the pipe-clamp means of re-assembling the airgun befuddles me. True their technique works well, but still requires copious prudence to align and keep from cross threading the "hubcaps". The proper factory technique also requires a tool... one that LETS the entire procedure take place with no springs to quarrel with. EVERYTHING goes back together eazy-peazy with NO NEED for extra hands, and literally the final step is to insert the springs and 1/4 turn of the removable sleeve in the compensation piston captures all 3 springs.

Working on my own "tool" as we speak.
Sneak preview... hint... part of it costs a "NICKEL" ... see it ???



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Ziabeam, sadly not all rear pistons have the removable sleeve thus making it impossible to install the piston springs last. The two I have rebuilt were earlier models Diana 60T (1965) and a Beeman Original model 10 (maybe around 1974 -75). Both solid one piece pistons. There must have been a re-design at a later date to make assembly easier.

Steven
 
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"Wadcutter"
Ziabeam, sadly not all rear pistons have the removable sleeve thus making it impossible to install the piston springs last. The two I have rebuilt were earlier models Diana 60T (1965) and a Beeman Original model 10 (maybe around 1974 -75). Both solid one piece pistons. There must have been a re-design at a later date to make assembly easier.

Steven
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That explains a lot. My Winchester 333 is from 04 69.
My Diana 60T is also 1965 (correction 08 67)
I owe the pipe clamp guru an apology then. The idea I was drafting required a slitting saw diameter I don't have, so I'm going the clamp route as well.
Can almost taste the CROW now :)


 
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