My new yong heng set up.

[Aparks454]

Hey AGN,



Just thought I’d post a picture of my new yong heng set up. I’m putting my knock of yong heng up for parts or as a back up and trying to make a more efficient tank filling set up. 


So as of right now I haven’t completed the set up but anyone with any input or options please let me know. 


I’ve got the yong heng with its small in line filter as the first stage. Then a two part water and oil separator as my second stage, and a new warrior gold filter as my final filtration stage. This may seem extreme but I was having a real problem keeping moisture out of the system. I was even getting a very slight gurgling sound while filling, my tank off my scuba bottle, so I knew I needed to do something different. I am going to be using water wetter in my coolant and probably putting ice packs in the bucket when doing longer fills. I hope this all works out well. I’m kind of posting this before I start the set up for the first time to see if anyone has any input on anything I’m doing wrong or that could be better. 


Thanks for the read. Hope to hear your all’s opinion soon.

 

[Leatherman]

I’m wondering if a better way to get moisture out of the lines would be to build a dryer system like they show on Utube video’s for the big compressors used by car painters, using 8 foot lengths of copper pipe running up and down with ball valves on the bottom of each run to bleed out the trapped water. Then you connect a water filter after that. I was told you need to get the air cooled down , which condenses the water in the heated air . To do that it takes a certain length of line and then you have to have a way to trap and bleed out the water before the air goes through a dryer filter for the final step. You will never get an efficient system with an inline filter on a 4 foot hose connected to your airgun as the air does not have time to cool down and condense the water vapor. The problem is the copper pipe wouldn’t take the pressure so I don’t recommend trying that. But using the proper rated hose and fittings I think something like that could be sourced and made And possibly marketed.

 

[vinny]

Nice setup but I would put something to secure the compressor in place from experience I’ll say it’s gonna walk right off the shelf.

 

[biohazardman]

Wow that is allot of filtration pretty impressive set up and well done! It should werq just fine.

Water supply near level with the tank Check

Filters above the compressor Check

Tank or guns filled above the filters Check

The only thing I would do differently is put the tiny YH filter just before the gold filter and let the big dual filter take care of the best part of the moisture first. That should save you having to change the YH filter after every ten or twenty minutes or so of run time. 

Edit; I didn't know there was filter media in the the dual filter I would leave it as it is.

My compressor has never budged an inch and it just sits on an 10"x14"x8" block of wood. Guess you will need to run it to see if it is a problem or not.

 

[dyotat100]

Your filter should have a PMV valve on it.

 

[SilentSquirrel]

Your filter should have a PMV valve on it.

What's a PM valve, please?

 

[dyotat100]

Pressure maintaining valve. Goes after the filter so the filter doesn't release air until 2000 psi. 

 

[biohazardman]

I am not sure of the reason for a PM valve and have never had one in my two+ years with my YH so doubt it is needed. When filling large tanks make sure to wait before opening the tank valve until the compressor is equal in pressure to the tank you are filling. Most smallish tanks are different animals and have a built in check valve inline with the fill port so no opening of the valve at all.

 

[SilentSquirrel]

Pressure maintaining valve. Goes after the filter so the filter doesn't release air until 2000 psi.

Thanks, Dyotat100

Why would this be needed?

I just wait until tank pressure & output pressure match.

Is there a distinct advantage to using the PM valve?

 

[bandg]

Seems the concept is that a PMV allows the compressed air to be dried more completely by keeping it in contact with the drying media at a higher pressure for longer. Not certain about this at all as I also haven't used one but it is what I gather from reading.

 

[Eaglebeak]

The only purpose of a PMV is to maintain the minimum pressure for the desiccant separator's optimum efficiency. It is only of benefit when filling from empty by restricting the flow until the minimum WP, usually about 2000 PSI is reached before opening. Over 2000 PSI it is totally redundant. So if you only use your compressor for topping off, it is useless. Even under 2000 PSI your filter will still work, it will just not be as efficient. IMO it is only necessary for SCUBA because those bottles are almost always filled from near empty. This subject has been discussed ad nauseam in past threads. 

 

[airgunfans]

I have installed a needle valve at the outlet of my big gold filter. I fill guns ( to 4500 psi ) only and typically I do several fills in a shooting session. I want the gold filter to maintain pressurized at 4500 psi throughout the session to eliminate the need to re-pressurize it in each fill. This is achieved by closing the valve after filling. I guess a PMV is for the same purpose.

 

[bandg]

I have installed a needle valve at the outlet of my big gold filter. I fill guns ( to 4500 psi ) only and typically I do several fills in a shooting session. I want the gold filter to maintain pressurized at 4500 psi throughout the session to eliminate the need to re-pressurize it in each fill. This is achieved by closing the valve after filling. I guess a PMV is for the same purpose.

Joe Brancato's site says that moisture removal across drying media is improved by increasing pressure and duration of time of contact with the drying media.

 

[DirtyDovi]

I’m wondering if a better way to get moisture out of the lines would be to build a dryer system like they show on Utube video’s for the big compressors used by car painters, using 8 foot lengths of copper pipe running up and down with ball valves on the bottom of each run to bleed out the trapped water. Then you connect a water filter after that. I was told you need to get the air cooled down , which condenses the water in the heated air . To do that it takes a certain length of line and then you have to have a way to trap and bleed out the water before the air goes through a dryer filter for the final step. You will never get an efficient system with an inline filter on a 4 foot hose connected to your airgun as the air does not have time to cool down and condense the water vapor. The problem is the copper pipe wouldn’t take the pressure so I don’t recommend trying that. But using the proper rated hose and fittings I think something like that could be sourced and made And possibly marketed.

As an ex 13+ year owner/operator of several custom paint shops, 
I initially intended on setting up my Yong Heng exactly how I set up my commercial/industrial systems.. 
I always used PVC for the lines, and between using air tools, handfuls of full sized and mini / detail paint guns - even airbrushes, I never had a single moisture/oil issue. 
So I still recommend PVC to this day.
In the end, I skimped out and went the most simplistic route. "Apartment living" nix'd my idea for doing a more permanent setup.. None the less - So far so good.

Back to auto/paint shop style setups..
Different components and layouts work for different systems.. 
I usually had over 100 gallon compressors - then a run of a few feet of pvc over-and-up to a double-dryer / filter, then a drop-over-and back up.. 
At the drop, there was the 1st manual air/oil purge..
I ran a few other moisture/oil separators inline also from there.. 
By going up and over, you'll keep accumulated hot air and moisture towards the bottom - that can be purged out of the system - if/when needed.. 
By going over - the air also cools down - less heat = less potential for condensation to occur..
The dryers and moisture/oil separators do what they sound like they do..

I'd usually set the compressors up in a corner, and then if/when possible, I'd run mirrored line systems down each wall to the left and right.. 

I also had a similar 3rd setup just like those, but, dedicated to just the inside of the paint-booths.



Sam -

 

[DirtyDovi]

Aparks454, 

Very Nice Setup! 
For use with the Yong Heng compressor This is probably one of The Best lookin' systems that I've seen yet!
Great job!

Sam -

 

[Rodeo]

You can make your set up mobile for around $30 from Amazon.

The wire cart works quite well. I did put better casters on mine.

 

[tracker1955]

The 3 tier shelf is very similar to what I'm using just no casters. Shelf was being thrown out by a neighbor who was moving, their trash my treasure.

 

[Rodeo]

Thumbs up for the "art of repurposing".

 

[SilentSquirrel]

That looks great!

Good decision having all the weight at the bottom

The low center of gravity will help keep it stable & might make pushing it around easier.

And the water bucket may absorb some vibration that will most certainly loosen carts screw.

Locktite (or equivalent) anyone?

How does it roll with all that weight on it?



Ed

 

[Rodeo]

Actually no screws in the cart's assembly except for the threaded shafts holding on the casters. The cart rolls without much effort. I did swap out the plastic rollers that came with the cart for heavier duty solid rubber casters.