My New Rifle

i don't know about the bullpup, but this is what i'm using at the moment for my chaser. inexpensive and works. no adapters required. better than the stock version.


dianachaserwithbuckrailsuppressor001.jpg
 
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My first pcp, a Stoeger bull pup which is a Snowpeak P 35 in a different stock. I thought I might try the moderator on my Diana Chaser on the bull pup but it would require a smaller adaptor. Both rifles are in .22 caliber. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Donny FL can supply a 1/2 UNF adaptor. I recommend their FAT BOY suppressor with the .22/25 insert.
 
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It's probably a metric thread and you can probably buy a moderator to fit the threads you have. But you don't really need a moderator. Another guy who just got one says it has baffles and I presume they are thin aluminum pieces like my P35 has. It should be 90+ db as is and you can drop it into the low to mid 80s with a couple hair curlers and some plastic felt. I got the curlers from the dollar store, about $1.25, and the felt from hobby lobby - 33 cents a piece. I is enough but I'd get two at that price. But a baffle up against the bright aluminum piece in the shroud with half a curler wrapped in felt inside, then a full curler with a baffle on it, then a third baffle up against the end cap. The last baffle may have an O-ring. If it does, it's best to either remove the O-ring or put it back against the end cap. Otherwise it can get into the pellet path.

My P35 22 really likes H&N Baracuda Match pellets 21 grain either head size, but also likes JSB 18 grain and shot the one slug I tried, H&N Slug HP in 25 grain, almost as well as the Baracuda Match pellets. I did not try heavier JSB 25.4s but if your Stoeger is set up really hot, as another reports for his 177, you might want some of them too.

You can easily reduce the trigger weight and make it more crisp if you remove the stock. Should be two allen head, 3mm, bolts on the bottom. The first stage weight is controlled by a spring that looks like a ball point pen spring on the rod that runs from the trigger to the action. If you loosen the collar on the end towards the action you can relax the spring reducing the trigger weight. It is the first stage spring but the first stage adds to the second stage weight. There is no downside or risk to this. To further reduce the weight and to make it more crisp, you want to turn the sear adjustment screw in after loosening the lock nut. This adjustment is much more risky and should only be done if you are confident you know what you are doing.
 
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I got some texts from another Bull Shark owner since my reply above. The baffles of his Bull Shark and presumably yours are different from the baffles of my P35s. I have about 7 baffles that are in one piece and nest into each other. I believe you have three that are in two pieces. No idea of effectiveness of yours. Mine help but are made more effective by the wrapped hair curlers. Yours may be more effective. I would test them, preferably with a sound meter, before buying a moderator. You may not be able to put as many wrapped hair curlers in yours but I would still test that too before deciding to spend another ~$100 on a moderator. You can slide the shroud forward to make more space by loosening the grub screw of the back fitting of the shroud.
 
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Reactions: Nattboy
It's probably a metric thread and you can probably buy a moderator to fit the threads you have. But you don't really need a moderator. Another guy who just got one says it has baffles and I presume they are thin aluminum pieces like my P35 has. It should be 90+ db as is and you can drop it into the low to mid 80s with a couple hair curlers and some plastic felt. I got the curlers from the dollar store, about $1.25, and the felt from hobby lobby - 33 cents a piece. I is enough but I'd get two at that price. But a baffle up against the bright aluminum piece in the shroud with half a curler wrapped in felt inside, then a full curler with a baffle on it, then a third baffle up against the end cap. The last baffle may have an O-ring. If it does, it's best to either remove the O-ring or put it back against the end cap. Otherwise it can get into the pellet path.

My P35 22 really likes H&N Baracuda Match pellets 21 grain either head size, but also likes JSB 18 grain and shot the one slug I tried, H&N Slug HP in 25 grain, almost as well as the Baracuda Match pellets. I did not try heavier JSB 25.4s but if your Stoeger is set up really hot, as another reports for his 177, you might want some of them too.

You can easily reduce the trigger weight and make it more crisp if you remove the stock. Should be two allen head, 3mm, bolts on the bottom. The first stage weight is controlled by a spring that looks like a ball point pen spring on the rod that runs from the trigger to the action. If you loosen the collar on the end towards the action you can relax the spring reducing the trigger weight. It is the first stage spring but the first stage adds to the second stage weight. There is no downside or risk to this. To further reduce the weight and to make it more crisp, you want to turn the sear adjustment screw in after loosening the lock nut. This adjustment is much more risky and should only be done if you are confident you know what you are doing.
Thanks Jim
 
Donny FL can supply a 1/2 UNF adaptor. I recommend their FAT BOY suppressor with the .22/25 insert.
Thank you
I got some texts from another Bull Shark owner since my reply above. The baffles of his Bull Shark and presumably yours are different from the baffles of my P35s. I have about 7 baffles that are in one piece and nest into each other. I believe you have three that are in two pieces. No idea of effectiveness of yours. Mine help but are made more effective by the wrapped hair curlers. Yours may be more effective. I would test them, preferably with a sound meter, before buying a moderator. You may not be able to put as many wrapped hair curlers in yours but I would still test that too before deciding to spend another ~$100 on a moderator. You can slide the shroud forward to make more space by loosening the grub screw of the back fitting of the shroud.
Thanks Jim