Yes a little new to your home. Better late than not.
Thanks I'll try to pay closer attention.
Thanks
Thanks I'll try to pay closer attention.
Thanks
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MY NEW KRAL BREAKER SILENT BULL PUP...HONEST REVIEW!
- Thread starter Pauls Custom Targets
- Start date
Ok, adjusted the scope mount so it's not hitting the barrel. Adjusted the trigger. And I got this 10 shot 1/4 inch center to center.
https://goo.gl/photos/WJ562kiwFAPEokRp9
https://goo.gl/photos/ptAmb4BZJCh5xNA6A
i also took off the barrel band.
https://goo.gl/photos/hCv4pZk16KuJjNpx7
I'll put it back on and try again later this week. I'd like the barrel to float. I may have to dremal it out a bit. But I'm getting much happier with this gun. It just takes a little tinkering.
i noticed the hammer spring screw turns very easy. I still have to get it on the chronny and play with this setting. Every time I get around to shooting it's already getting too dark. But once I find the sweet spot I think I'll put a drop of lock right on it to keep it from moving.
this gun is as easy to work on as the marauder. its a bullpup, it has a sidelever and more than twice the shots per fill.
Hope to see an after market lever and seer. Just in case.
https://goo.gl/photos/WJ562kiwFAPEokRp9
https://goo.gl/photos/ptAmb4BZJCh5xNA6A
i also took off the barrel band.
https://goo.gl/photos/hCv4pZk16KuJjNpx7
I'll put it back on and try again later this week. I'd like the barrel to float. I may have to dremal it out a bit. But I'm getting much happier with this gun. It just takes a little tinkering.
i noticed the hammer spring screw turns very easy. I still have to get it on the chronny and play with this setting. Every time I get around to shooting it's already getting too dark. But once I find the sweet spot I think I'll put a drop of lock right on it to keep it from moving.
this gun is as easy to work on as the marauder. its a bullpup, it has a sidelever and more than twice the shots per fill.
Hope to see an after market lever and seer. Just in case.
Upvote 0
White fang, your comment is welcome anyway. With a thread this long, some people may have breezed over the previous comment. You would make them go back and get the info that they missed....
Rod that group is much better, and actually pretty damn good. With this gun in .25 we can't expect bench rest groups.. it is a hunter in my opinion. Getting a group under a dime at 50-75 yards would be great for me. And around 3/4" at 100 yards . Keeping in mind this is under windless conditions of a bench.
As in competitions, you want a gun that outshoots you. Then if you do your part it's magic!
Willie, I find any contact down the barrel creates issues with the barrel harmonics. For example, look at the Disco. You can't truly float the barrel on them successfully, at least in my expierence tuning two of them. When you remove the barrel bands, the barrel lifts up away from the air tube a good deal. Nearly 1/4" +-
Usually most guys use three bands to get the best accuracy. Sliding them around to get to that point.
The design of the barrel inline with the tiny receiver/pellet channel over air tube causes this. The Challanger is nearly the same but the use of an additional screw, and the back band
Behaving like part of the receiver makes it stronger and avoids movement. The front band does not contact the barrel at all. It just protects the barrel from being knocked. My Challanger is every bit as accurate as my Steyr...
So I don't know if a foam or soft rubber would help or not. Clearing the opening to make sure it does not touch the barrel, like Rod is going to do, would be my choice too. Keeping it simple....
I am going to post some pics of my friend in PR who really went crazy working on his. What till you see his groups...It is a .177 and he it grouping at 70-90 yards! Lust need to figure how to get the pics off instant messenger to my laptop...
Rod that group is much better, and actually pretty damn good. With this gun in .25 we can't expect bench rest groups.. it is a hunter in my opinion. Getting a group under a dime at 50-75 yards would be great for me. And around 3/4" at 100 yards . Keeping in mind this is under windless conditions of a bench.
As in competitions, you want a gun that outshoots you. Then if you do your part it's magic!
Willie, I find any contact down the barrel creates issues with the barrel harmonics. For example, look at the Disco. You can't truly float the barrel on them successfully, at least in my expierence tuning two of them. When you remove the barrel bands, the barrel lifts up away from the air tube a good deal. Nearly 1/4" +-
Usually most guys use three bands to get the best accuracy. Sliding them around to get to that point.
The design of the barrel inline with the tiny receiver/pellet channel over air tube causes this. The Challanger is nearly the same but the use of an additional screw, and the back band
Behaving like part of the receiver makes it stronger and avoids movement. The front band does not contact the barrel at all. It just protects the barrel from being knocked. My Challanger is every bit as accurate as my Steyr...
So I don't know if a foam or soft rubber would help or not. Clearing the opening to make sure it does not touch the barrel, like Rod is going to do, would be my choice too. Keeping it simple....
I am going to post some pics of my friend in PR who really went crazy working on his. What till you see his groups...It is a .177 and he it grouping at 70-90 yards! Lust need to figure how to get the pics off instant messenger to my laptop...
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Ok , It was easier then I thought ...HAhaha Here are the groups he shot with his extensively tuned Kral Breaker Silent in wood stock. It is a .177 cal
He covered the groups with pellets and coins
He covered the groups with pellets and coins
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strikefast, do you have a pic of his gun? I'd like to see how he floated the barrel. Did he just pull the barrel band off?
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Rod, Glad your groups tightened up. I put a few wraps of the thicker(gas) Teflon tape around my hammer adjuster screw to keep it from loosening up.
Strike, those are some very nice groups!
Strike, those are some very nice groups!
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I will put up the pic in a bit.. I just got on from mowing and need a shower.
I think I posted his info n what he did a few pages back....But I will repost his work with the photo of the gun.
I think I posted his info n what he did a few pages back....But I will repost his work with the photo of the gun.
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Rod, here he is with the gun. He teaches welding (more like art) and is a machinist.. He tunes all the guns for the team in Puerto Rico. Also has done some work for me and my travel partner. We all shoot the grand Prix circuit for field target and the Nationals. He is a great shot too...
This is what he told me he did to his gun through instant messenger....
Ok I make the hammer longer TO get shorter distance betwing hammer to valve .450 thousands from hammer to valve stem..re drilled the transfer port .015.over..I use a anschuts barrel but is because the ones come whith it no good..I change the hammer spring for a heavy one...shorter barre 4 inch.. modifie the moderador whith internal air defusser. Make a trigger job to 1.2 pounds.the barrel is full floating ..the rifle make 1/2 inch grupo at 70 yard using jsb 13.4 at 820fps ..the sp.is 18fps in 70 shoots the sd.is 5.3 fps..I make aluminum air reservior 325cc.4500 psi but fill to 3500psi because is not regulated for the moment.any further info.just ask me...say hi to will piatt ...
This is what he told me he did to his gun through instant messenger....
Ok I make the hammer longer TO get shorter distance betwing hammer to valve .450 thousands from hammer to valve stem..re drilled the transfer port .015.over..I use a anschuts barrel but is because the ones come whith it no good..I change the hammer spring for a heavy one...shorter barre 4 inch.. modifie the moderador whith internal air defusser. Make a trigger job to 1.2 pounds.the barrel is full floating ..the rifle make 1/2 inch grupo at 70 yard using jsb 13.4 at 820fps ..the sp.is 18fps in 70 shoots the sd.is 5.3 fps..I make aluminum air reservior 325cc.4500 psi but fill to 3500psi because is not regulated for the moment.any further info.just ask me...say hi to will piatt ... Upvote 0
Wow, thanks.
How do drill the transfer port? Is it just removing the power adjuster valve and drilling it out to .015 over? Or is he talking about inside the receiver?
I'm too busy to play with it until next week. I have some more pellets coming from P.A. When they come in I'm going to dedicate a day to playing with it and trying to dial it in.
Rod
How do drill the transfer port? Is it just removing the power adjuster valve and drilling it out to .015 over? Or is he talking about inside the receiver?
I'm too busy to play with it until next week. I have some more pellets coming from P.A. When they come in I'm going to dedicate a day to playing with it and trying to dial it in.
Rod
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I don't know.. I assume he did not do the port that adjusts as I could not get much before it would break out the side.
I will check with him another time. Working in filling three orders for custom target at the present.. need the get back to it......
I will check with him another time. Working in filling three orders for custom target at the present.. need the get back to it......
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All that work but it looks like he still has the original cocking lever and said nothing about the sear either..."strikefast"Rod, here he is with the gun. He teaches welding (more like art) and is a machinist.. He tunes all the guns for the team in Puerto Rico. Also has done some work for me and my travel partner. We all shoot the grand Prix circuit for field target and the Nationals. He is a great shot too...
This is what he told me he did to his gun through instant messenger....
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Without a chrony, it's like reaching for something in the dark.
I put mine on the chrony at lunch today. Got off 40 shots before I had to clean up and get back to work.
unsorted, unwashed, JSB 25.39. I think some of them had bent skirts.
Low 709.2
High 732.9
Avg 722.9
SD 6.7
ES 23.7
FPE 29
I took a look at the pick from strikefast on his hammer spring, and mine is flush with the receiver, so... Time to crank up the hammer spring. Anyone try a stronger spring? and if so, where did you get it from?
Also,
Anyone have a pick of how to take the power adjuster valve out? It looks like you undo the allen over the top of it, and just pull it out. But I don't want to mess it up.
Thanks, everyone who's contributed. This has been way more fun to do with some instruction along the way.
I put mine on the chrony at lunch today. Got off 40 shots before I had to clean up and get back to work.
unsorted, unwashed, JSB 25.39. I think some of them had bent skirts.
Low 709.2
High 732.9
Avg 722.9
SD 6.7
ES 23.7
FPE 29
I took a look at the pick from strikefast on his hammer spring, and mine is flush with the receiver, so... Time to crank up the hammer spring. Anyone try a stronger spring? and if so, where did you get it from?
Also,
Anyone have a pick of how to take the power adjuster valve out? It looks like you undo the allen over the top of it, and just pull it out. But I don't want to mess it up.
Thanks, everyone who's contributed. This has been way more fun to do with some instruction along the way.
Upvote 0
Nice lever..... Keep me in the loop Matt... Might want one.
I did not see a problem with the lever myself. The sear did need polishing and now it is getting hardened.
If the lever it sear was an issue my friend would have mentioned it. I will ck and see what he says. He always makes a larger air tube, and apparently the probe cover, and gauge cover could not be used if I see the pic rt.
I did not see a problem with the lever myself. The sear did need polishing and now it is getting hardened.
If the lever it sear was an issue my friend would have mentioned it. I will ck and see what he says. He always makes a larger air tube, and apparently the probe cover, and gauge cover could not be used if I see the pic rt.
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Rod, you are correct. Just loosen or remove the Allen bolt above the port on the left side of the gun. The port with pull out the rt side.
As far as the hammer spring, if you tighten it and shoot over the Chrony with the stock off. You should get to 35 -36 FPE before the lever won't lock back. Also mine was great in accuracy at that FPE....
As far as the hammer spring, if you tighten it and shoot over the Chrony with the stock off. You should get to 35 -36 FPE before the lever won't lock back. Also mine was great in accuracy at that FPE....
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Strikefast, thanks a ton for all your help.
I'm betting on the idea that getting the speed up will help accuracy. It's like figuring out how much powder to add to a cartridge to get the harmonics rite on a rifle.
I need the FPE anyway, turnkeys are stubborn. They won't fall over unless you thump em good in the noggin. They just run off telling all their friends to run away and never come back. But a good clean head shot, and they drop and kick a bit, and their buddies come over to see what happened.
I'm betting on the idea that getting the speed up will help accuracy. It's like figuring out how much powder to add to a cartridge to get the harmonics rite on a rifle.
I need the FPE anyway, turnkeys are stubborn. They won't fall over unless you thump em good in the noggin. They just run off telling all their friends to run away and never come back. But a good clean head shot, and they drop and kick a bit, and their buddies come over to see what happened.
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Happy Thanksgiving!!! Lol
Rod your rifle was only shooting at 29 FPE...? You definitely need to boost the hammer. You also can get a longer and it stronger spring at most hardware stores like ACE.
I get a good many of my hammer springs there. With the Kral you can get a compression spring close in diameter as there is a good deal of wiggle room in there.... Just watch as you get it tight near 36 FPE the cocking lever will not lock back to catch the hammer. The sear has to catch the front of the hammer. When too tight, the hammer can't go back far enough to let this happen.
Rod your rifle was only shooting at 29 FPE...? You definitely need to boost the hammer. You also can get a longer and it stronger spring at most hardware stores like ACE.
I get a good many of my hammer springs there. With the Kral you can get a compression spring close in diameter as there is a good deal of wiggle room in there.... Just watch as you get it tight near 36 FPE the cocking lever will not lock back to catch the hammer. The sear has to catch the front of the hammer. When too tight, the hammer can't go back far enough to let this happen.
Upvote 0