My New .177 FX Crown Has A Low POI On First Shot Just Like My .25

Have you tried the advice given in my first reply? If the low velocity is caused by regulator creep (the 6-8 bar you described), that will cure it...and not void your warranty.

I bought it for the adjustable power, if I am stuck shooting near max I should have just kept the .177 FX 400 I sold to purchase the Crown.

The hammer spring adjustment is a click wheel: MAX, 5, 4, 3,,,etc.. The transfer port is also a wheel: .25/.30, .177/.22 & LOW, no fine tuning.


 
When you get the hammer strike adjusted properly, you’re golden. A power wheel (transfer port restrictor) should not degrade the consistency unless of course it does not reliably return to the same adjustment each time it’s dialed to a particular setting.

I am not sure what you mean. The transfer port is either max ( .177/.22 setting ) or low, with no in-between. 
 
This morning, Unfortunately, my chrony didn't read, probably was fogged up



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After I get rid of that darn 1st shot

35yds

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70yds

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Although I shoot more at targets just to check POI/POA, trajectory and power settings with different pellets, I purchased the rifles for pesting/hunting and I do not want to have to dry fire in my house ( did I leave a pellet in the chamber when that starling flew away when I cracked the door??? ) everyday I want to take out some pest in my yard or on the feeder.
 
Okay, the number of settings is not important. I was just trying to convey that the use of the power wheel does not preclude consistent operation once the hammer strike is adjusted to an optimum level.

That means I am stuck at one power level and probably heavy pellets only?

Right now I run it with AA 10.34gr around 16fpe and AA 8.4gr at 13fpe. 
 
Then I’m confused as well. A few posts back you said “the transfer port is also a wheel”.

That’s how most power wheels are done. They manipulate the amount of air permitted to flow through. If the Crown instead adjusts power by way of manipulating the hammer spring, the problem will persist at the low power setting. That is in some sense a design deficiency, although typically the low setting will be used for modest distances where the velocity variation won’t be as detrimental. The upside is it can be silly quiet because the valve’s dwell (how long it’s open) is really short and efficiency (shot count) is maximized...at the expense of consistency.

Anyway...with that said, which is it for the wheel? Transfer port restrictor or hammer spring adjuster?


 
MP44 what is the gap in your hammer spring adjuster with the stock removed but the wheel back on?

I now dry shoot the gun a few times after changing a setting, audibly the sound is different on the first shot, perhaps it is air still contained in the action rather than the correct pulse after adjusting (if that makes sense?).

My gun now shoots the JSB 10.34 pretty consistently and the monster and beast even better! however I wanted to shoot the 8.44, but that doesnt seem to work, like you if I am stuck with the heavies I wont bother!
 
I haven't taken the stock off. I just received the rifle and realized that it had the same issue, so emailed FX USA right away. I figured for as much as the rifle cost I would let them deal with it. 

So far, accuracy \with 10.4gr and the 8.4gr look really promising. I sold my .177 FX 400 to help fund the Crown mainly because the ST barrel seemed to only like ( loved ) 10.4gr. In hindsight I wish I would have just kept the Royale, it would shoot the 10.4gr accurately all the way down to 12fpe and accuracy and VELOCITY was absolutely spot on no matter how long it sat. 
 
This morning, Unfortunately, my chrony didn't read, probably was fogged up



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My guess would be something else (or in addition to) regulator creep. Otherwise why would it be off more to the right then it is down? Maybe o-ring stiction?

Seems like cocking and firing without a pellet before starting would be the simplest and cheapest "fix".
 
Seems like cocking and firing without a pellet before starting would be the simplest and cheapest "fix".






""Although I shoot more at targets just to check POI/POA, trajectory and power settings with different pellets, I purchased the rifles for pesting/hunting and I do not want to have to dry fire in my house ( did I leave a pellet in the chamber when that starling flew away when I cracked the door??? ) everyday I want to take out some pest in my yard or on the feeder."
 
Seems like cocking and firing without a pellet before starting would be the simplest and cheapest "fix".






""Although I shoot more at targets just to check POI/POA, trajectory and power settings with different pellets, I purchased the rifles for pesting/hunting and I do not want to have to dry fire in my house ( did I leave a pellet in the chamber when that starling flew away when I cracked the door??? ) everyday I want to take out some pest in my yard or on the feeder."


OK, then an even easier "fix" is to aim 1/2" higher (or whatever distance it is low at the given yardage) on your first shot.
 
When fx first introduced there adjustable hammer spring and adjustable regulators I think it’s major advantage was it made the gun easier to tune. You didn’t have to pull the gun apart to change things. You didn’t have to attach a pressure gauge to check regulator pressure. If you want the best consistency you use the adjustability to tune it perfectly to a particular pellet. 

This same adjustability will allow you to make adjustments using just the hammer spring tension to decrease speed ect but that will always be a compromise on the “best” tune. 

This is because the best tune will use both of the guns regulators. That is the regulator and the hst. If you tune your gun by starting with a max hst (with the adjustment screw correct for the caliber) and the regulator pressure low but not under 100bar. Then slowly increase the regulator pressure to achieve your fps and go just a little past it. Then ajust your hst back to your desired fps. 

Now with this tune if you get a small increase in regulator pressure your hst will still be able to open the valve and act as a regulator. It doesn’t have to open it as far as the regulator pressure is higher so velocity stays consistent. You will also get a few more shots as the gun goes off reg because the hst will now open the valve a little further. 

When you have higher regulator pressure and lower hst the gun will be very sensitive to regulator creep. 

The good tuners have always done this and that why your Royal was so consistent. Let’s face it we didn’t know what the regulator pressure was because we didn’t have a gauge. It didn’t matter that it crept up a little if it was tuned well. 
 
My first shot has been low as well (25cal 33.94gr), I mean about 2-3" low at 75yds, the second shot a lot higher but still sometimes a tad low. From then on everything was good. I finally got tired of it and after following this post decided to make an adjustment. I checked the regulated pressure gauge, made a quick note and ran a quick shot string the last two trips out.



On 7/21/18 the regulator was reading 135bar and the HS was set on #4, 835-845-848-852-850-853-850

On 9/03/18 AM, the regulator pressure was 141-142, HS still on #4, 825-856-851-849-853-858 with the regulated ending at 140

Same day after gun set in the warm shed for a few hours, regulator was on 146, 820-859-857-855-861 and the regulator settling at 138-139

Yesterday after bumping up the HS adjust to #5, regulator at 140-141, 878-877-872-875-876-877 and the regulator settling at 138,

I was surprised that the shots following the first shot were not noticeably lower than the first shot. Yeh!! I didn't have time to shoot as it is but hopefully it'll still group as well as it was shooting a little slower velocity. I guess if it won't I can always lower the regulator pressure and then readjust the HS to achieve the same consistent shot string.

Just thought I'd share my findings,

Jimmy