My Improved Harmonic Tuner

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AirgunBill

Member
Nov 2, 2015
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Maryland, United States
I made a simple harmonic barrel tuner back last summer using a weighted tube I affixed to my moderator. I decide do a couple of improvements and place my new tuner on the shroud instead since I usually have to remove my moderator to store my rifle in the case. I hope this set-up will give consistent and repeatable groups. Bill

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cd4iNLfqg1c&ab_channel=GunPowder%26AirPower
 
Excellent results. Looks pretty good too, well put together. Question to you or anyone that can answer: how much does it matter where the harmonic tuner (weight) is located between the breech-end and the muzzle end? I assume as long as the very end of the barrel (muzzle end) flexing is brought under control it should not matter. But I would assume that the closer away from the end of the barrel (muzzle end) the weight is located the more weight is needed to produce the proper effect? 
 
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Excellent results. Looks pretty good too, well put together. Question to you or anyone that can answer: how much does it matter where the harmonic tuner (weight) is located between the breech-end and the muzzle end? I assume as long as the very end of the barrel (muzzle end) flexing is brought under control it should not matter. But I would assume that the closer away from the end of the barrel (muzzle end) the weight is located the more weight is needed to produce the proper effect?
Click to expand...

As I mentioned in my video my tuner weighs only about 4.6 ounces. To reach the accuracy node only required moving it forward about 9.5 mm. Bill
 
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How about uploading the stl files for the harmonic balancer and sideshot brackets, or a ling to them. Great job and super Ingenuity.
Click to expand...

As I have mentioned before with 3d printing everyone's printer is calibrated slightly differently plus when you print out a hole or object the diameter will vary. For someone just trying to print the object as is will probably not size right. I use Tinkercad and the shapes used and the designs are pretty simple. Bill
 
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From engineering standpoint (and a longer learning curve with archery arrows) every tube - no matter of round or square - or what wall thickness - or what material - have two node points = static. Can be calculated and can be measured. A rough picture only to show...devide the tube length by 3 and mark each segment with a pencil. So you got two lines...those are the node points which doesn't oscillate. Between the two lines it is flexing/oscillating and outside of the lines L-R ends are flexing. The two lines what you just marked on the tube are rough ballpark but a precise estimation will be less then 5% away.

Any dampener you don't position to the node points but between the most flex point (where is most bowing) and static=node point, and slide+test in and out in small increments.
 
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Second part of the story...I failed to elaborate to ppl less inclined.

You don't want to eliminate/stop completely the oscillation of the tube, because it will "escape" to the neighboring/surrounding parts which are hard connected = oscillation is travelling (an aggressive example look at the earthquakes). You want to slow down the oscillations, without estimate let me pictorial put a number ,,, slow down from 327 Hz to let say 50-60...with a dampener (some heavy metal powder like bronze or carbide or iron powder mixed in to very soft wobbly rubber or silicon and cast this into a shape you will be handling).

This why the floating barrels getting popular. Let it float.
 
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