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My impressions on .22 Akela

I recently got one of these guns, and I was really impressed with the nice walnut stock … nice grain, good finish, and decent design. Unfortunately the singleshot adapter sent from the seller was the wrong caliber, and the magazines were too tight a fit due to the central screw in each protruding a slight amount too much.

I sanded the protruding screw til the mag fit, and started shooting. First off, the gun shot hard and accurately, but over the chrono, shot velocity dropped a bit with every shot, an indication the striker spring is too strong at the recommended fill pressure.

One screw got the action out of then stock, and a pin needs pushed out the side to remove the springn cap (hold the cap in as you remove the pin to keep it from flying somewhere). I then trimmed the spring a half coil at a time (and retested velocity consistency until it was what i wanted ….. a slight increase in velocity of around 10fps over then first ten shots, the a VERY consistent string for around 60 shots, then a gradual falling off until I stopped when it was down 15fps from peak at almost 80 shots! Yes, an unregulated .22 cal giving over 70 consistent shots from 3000psi down to about 1900psi!

The trigger was ok, but a little heavy, so I did a “slot lube” and adjusted the seafr engagement screw, for a nicer break of around 10oz.

Yes, power was lower than advertised … initially I got about 32fpe the first couple shots, with a gradual decline over around 20 shots until the poi had dropped more than I wanted to deal with. After trimming the spring, the power was around 23.5 fpe, at max setting (I didnt play with the power adjuster since I hardly see a use for it the way I use airguns) but the curve was so flat I could easily use the same hold at 50 yards for over 70 shots on the same charge. And that hold allowed consistent hits off a front bag with the stock shouldered on 1” shoot&see dots at 50 yards outdoors in the breeze! I scored around 65% solid first shot hits, and about 15% “clips” with no little waiting for the wind and fairly fast shooting with a 16X scope. I mostly used tweezers to single load the rifle, as I don’t really care for magazine loading when testing accuracy.

The gun was louder than a Marauder by a lot as received, but is now only a little louder than the mrod. 

Despite not having a decent single-load adapter, I LOVE this rifle!

I’m tempted to polish the barrel’s rifling, add a front barrel shroud support, and really tune the trigger … and then if it can make a decent benchrest gun.



LD
 
Is there a CARM single shot loader that works with the Cayden/Akela/Kratos? My Cayden is extremely accurate (way more than I expected at this price point!). I typically use the power adjustment at 1/2 power (slot in screw is straight vertical) and the hammer spring is mostly full out. It seems that these guns may have too strong of a hammer spring. How much did you trim from the hammer spring? I am a target shooter, and want to tune for optimizing accuracy- even at the expense of reducing maximum power.
 
Is there a CARM single shot loader that works with the Cayden/Akela/Kratos? My Cayden is extremely accurate (way more than I expected at this price point!). I typically use the power adjustment at 1/2 power (slot in screw is straight vertical) and the hammer spring is mostly full out. It seems that these guns may have too strong of a hammer spring. How much did you trim from the hammer spring? I am a target shooter, and want to tune for optimizing accuracy- even at the expense of reducing maximum power.

I bought a single shot tray for mine on eBay.Didn’t cost much and works good.
 
I’ve been looking at the Kratos, myself. How practical would it be to tune it for 50 Meter bench rest competition?

Not sure what you mean by practical. Typically, if I see a gun that seems capable of shooting well, I often play around with it to see if I can improve it. I enjoy doing it, and find the Hobby of building and/or tuning airguns satisfying.

In this case, I think the gun is good enough to be at at least mildly competitive the way I have it, but based on experience, it might benefit from a little JB Borepaste, followed by polishing with JB bore-bright on tight patches to help avoid barrel fouling. 

If you mean counting on it to deliver high scores in serious matches … well Im dubious of the odds, but for informal matches, I suspect this example has potential to run with much fancier guns on occasion.
 
id use it for awhile before you get the wire cutters out lol .. if you havent anyway .. new springs tend to break in and relax a bit after some use ...

Though I rarely see a striker spring like this one sacking out, I guess it CAN happen. Typically, if you “set” a spring by bringing it to coilbind for a couple mins, you can avoid future settling, esp as i this case, where the spring doesnt come close approaching coilbind during its cycle. 
 
Is there a CARM single shot loader that works with the Cayden/Akela/Kratos? My Cayden is extremely accurate (way more than I expected at this price point!). I typically use the power adjustment at 1/2 power (slot in screw is straight vertical) and the hammer spring is mostly full out. It seems that these guns may have too strong of a hammer spring. How much did you trim from the hammer spring? I am a target shooter, and want to tune for optimizing accuracy- even at the expense of reducing maximum power.

I tuned it by gradually shortening the spring a half coil at a time, and rechecking the first dozen or so shots over the chron. So though I ended up taking around two full coils off, I still feel its best to sneak up on it, since gun tunes and spring vary. Also, as I mentioned in another post, “set” the spring first to make it more stable. I use a grinder to shorten springs, and a propane or mapgass torch to heat and collapse the last half coil flat, so the effective length is shorter than one cut with a wire-cutter, but I feel more consistent, since it won’t cock as easily. 

BTW, a higher average power charge curve can be maintained if the stock curve is compensated for a bit by judicious use of the port restrictor knob if you carefully map the velocity every few shots and develop a regimen of starting at a lower setting and gradually increasing it as needed to maintain a more stable velocity.

I learned to do it with the powerful Korean guns equipped with “power adjusters” that buffered striker stroke, but its tedious and not really needed if you are willing to settle for less power accross the board in exchange for some tuning.

I know a reg is available for this model, but prefer the simplicity and extra reliability of non-regg’d guns.
 
I’ve been looking at the Kratos, myself. How practical would it be to tune it for 50 Meter bench rest competition?

Not sure what you mean by practical. Typically, if I see a gun that seems capable of shooting well, I often play around with it to see if I can improve it. I enjoy doing it, and find the Hobby of building and/or tuning airguns satisfying.

In this case, I think the gun is good enough to be at at least mildly competitive the way I have it, but based on experience, it might benefit from a little JB Borepaste, followed by polishing with JB bore-bright on tight patches to help avoid barrel fouling. 

If you mean counting on it to deliver high scores in serious matches … well Im dubious of the odds, but for informal matches, I suspect this example has potential to run with much fancier guns on occasion.

I should have been more specific with my question. Since it's legal to tether a gun per National50 rules, I could do that during my local matches at Open Grove in Oxnard and adjust my external regulator to suit.. I'd like to attend the EBR next year, (tethering not allowed for that match) and I'm interested in an affordable .22 that's somewhat accurate and will withstand the crosswinds on that range. I recently (finally) got some wind flags to help me that respect.