I forgot, the pellets looked fine to me. Maybe the marks were a little heavy but shouldn't make it shoot inaccurate.
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My First PCP
- Thread starter Marmalade
- Start date
I've been lurking in this forum for quite a while and I've seen what Allen can do. I'd gladly give him the rifle for a tuneup but not to fix something that shouldn't be broken. Well for now I'll give the pellets AJ posted a try in a 50m indoor "range" I managed to find and if that doesn't improve the groups then I'll return the rifle to the vendor. I don't think I know enough to mess with it and I'm certainly not going to learn on a rifle that costs this much and should work great out of the box even if it needs just a little polishing of the barrel.
Thank you guys for all the suggestions and helping me sort this out! I'll keep you posted when I get some more testing done.
Thank you guys for all the suggestions and helping me sort this out! I'll keep you posted when I get some more testing done.
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Remember, this gun was set up as a low power gun. To expect a low power airgun to group well at 75 yards is kind of optimistic.
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If it's a low power gun why ship it with a black transfer port that is made to increase power and an external power adjuster? And this is not advertised as a 10m rifle for target shooting. It's name says it all - High Power Hunting.
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Your gun was delivered with 12.5 fpe. Here, that is a low power gun.
What energy level is the gun currently shooting at?
What energy level is the gun currently shooting at?
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Here as well but what are the differences between a 16J and a 40J variant?
I didn't have a chrony when I was shooting the groups posted with the heavies, but it was set up shooting JSB Jumbos 15,89gr at 250m/s.
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I think the only difference is possibly the transfer port and the regulator setup. I have heard talk of different barrels for different factory energy setups, but I think this is probably not true.
It is not uncommon for guns to shoot very well out to 35 yds. Things can start falling apart by 50 and beyond. I imagine this is due to some kind of stability issue with the pellets. In order to maintain long range stability it is my feeling that a minimum speed must be maintained throughout the trajectory. I set up my .22s to have around 870 fps at the muzzle with the JSB 18.1 pellets. At these levels my RAW and Cricket can pretty reliably print 1/2" at 50yds. I shoot at 50yds because this is the range at which I zero. I am confident that accuracy is holding up beyond that due to successful hits in the field out to 90yds.
Mechanically there's not a lot that can go wrong with the Steyr.
The weak point with Steyrs is the barrel. There seems to be a lot of variation. I feel that 90% of a rifle's accuracy lies in the barrel. As I mentioned, Steyr has had a problem with nickel plating getting into the bore and causing problems. I don't know what kind of treatment black barrels like yours get. I have also heard that people have better luck with the shorter barrels. I posted the link above to give you an idea of what can be done to improve a mediocre barrel. I can certainly understand that you are reluctant to take your gun apart at this time.
If I thought that sending your gun for an exchange would get you a better gun, I'd recommend it. But I have a feeling you'd end up with the same situation. I think you're expecting too much from the gun at long distances with low velocities. The lg110 is also a very light gun with a forend that had a small diameter and rounded contour that makes benchresting difficult. Also, shooting for accuracy at long distances puts demands on the shooter that can be overcome with research and lots of practice.
It is not uncommon for guns to shoot very well out to 35 yds. Things can start falling apart by 50 and beyond. I imagine this is due to some kind of stability issue with the pellets. In order to maintain long range stability it is my feeling that a minimum speed must be maintained throughout the trajectory. I set up my .22s to have around 870 fps at the muzzle with the JSB 18.1 pellets. At these levels my RAW and Cricket can pretty reliably print 1/2" at 50yds. I shoot at 50yds because this is the range at which I zero. I am confident that accuracy is holding up beyond that due to successful hits in the field out to 90yds.
Mechanically there's not a lot that can go wrong with the Steyr.
The weak point with Steyrs is the barrel. There seems to be a lot of variation. I feel that 90% of a rifle's accuracy lies in the barrel. As I mentioned, Steyr has had a problem with nickel plating getting into the bore and causing problems. I don't know what kind of treatment black barrels like yours get. I have also heard that people have better luck with the shorter barrels. I posted the link above to give you an idea of what can be done to improve a mediocre barrel. I can certainly understand that you are reluctant to take your gun apart at this time.
If I thought that sending your gun for an exchange would get you a better gun, I'd recommend it. But I have a feeling you'd end up with the same situation. I think you're expecting too much from the gun at long distances with low velocities. The lg110 is also a very light gun with a forend that had a small diameter and rounded contour that makes benchresting difficult. Also, shooting for accuracy at long distances puts demands on the shooter that can be overcome with research and lots of practice.
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Yesterday I finally had some time to try some different pellets. But before I shot anything I took my time again and thoroughly scrubbed the barrel with a brass brush like suggested. When I pulled the first patch through it was a a bit gold from the brush. I kept pulling patches until they were clean and then proceeded to shot the following pellets at 50m (55yards) and 69m (75yards) :
I'll try to give the external adjuster a couple more turns but I think I'll have to start playing with the regulator (advice on how to correctly do this is much appreciated) soon since the adjuster is close to the max. Looking at the first chrony string I shot when the rifle was shooting at 16,5J the velocity started dropping when the cylinder pressure was at around 65BAR. Would it be safe to assume that the reg is set up at that pressure?
- JSB Jumbo Heavy 18.13gr - 5,52mm
- JSB Express 14.35gr - 5,52mm
- H&N Field Target Trophy 14.66gr - 5,53mm
- H&N Baracuda 21.14gr - 5,50mm
- H&H Baracuda Match 21,14gr - 5,52mm
- H&H Baracuda Match 21,14gr - 5,53mm
I'll try to give the external adjuster a couple more turns but I think I'll have to start playing with the regulator (advice on how to correctly do this is much appreciated) soon since the adjuster is close to the max. Looking at the first chrony string I shot when the rifle was shooting at 16,5J the velocity started dropping when the cylinder pressure was at around 65BAR. Would it be safe to assume that the reg is set up at that pressure?
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It's been a while and I found something interesting through simple luck. While I was reinstalling the barrel something got me distracted and I didn't properly retighten the screws. When I shot the rifle I could feel a small puff of air hit my face. I quickly took the scope off to check the screws and fixed the puffing coming to my face. Just to be sure I did a quick test by putting a small piece of string on both sides of the bolt and you could clearly see that there was a leak on the right side. Thinking I didn't set the barrel correctly I played around with it but no matter how much pressure was required to close the bolt the air was still leaking on the right side.
I then took the transfer port out and found that the thin washer was missing. I took a narrow strip about 2mm thick of teflon tape and wrapped it around the transfer port where it touched the housing. The problem wasn't fixed but it was certainly better. Here is a short clip of how much air is leaking.
I'm tempted to put more teflon tape under the TP but is seems that it must be a problem with the bolt alignment since the air escapes just from one side. What do you guys think?
Before doing anything I went and shot the rifle at 75yds and I think it's pretty respectable for the most part. Each ring is 4,5mm
I then took the transfer port out and found that the thin washer was missing. I took a narrow strip about 2mm thick of teflon tape and wrapped it around the transfer port where it touched the housing. The problem wasn't fixed but it was certainly better. Here is a short clip of how much air is leaking.
Before doing anything I went and shot the rifle at 75yds and I think it's pretty respectable for the most part. Each ring is 4,5mm
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Respectable indeed. Looks like one of "my" picked groups these days. Another sleev of pellets & targets need fear you!
Thanks for the follow up, naturally I have tissue tested rigs efore but never thought to test each side ( and I though I knew every use for dental floss ) .
Your deductive reasoning skill seem up to par so I am pretty sure you will end up with a fine rig that groups to your satisfaction.
"Thin washer was missing"? Straight from the factory and it is a part used in your model? I have a friend who had some minor issues with his FT rig, he chatted with the President of the company ( maybe easier if you shoot & travel international?) and the company was most responsive. That Teflon will get hit hard by hpa, maybe you can get the parts sent free?
Appreciate the tip on blow by.
John
Thanks for the follow up, naturally I have tissue tested rigs efore but never thought to test each side ( and I though I knew every use for dental floss ) .
Your deductive reasoning skill seem up to par so I am pretty sure you will end up with a fine rig that groups to your satisfaction.
"Thin washer was missing"? Straight from the factory and it is a part used in your model? I have a friend who had some minor issues with his FT rig, he chatted with the President of the company ( maybe easier if you shoot & travel international?) and the company was most responsive. That Teflon will get hit hard by hpa, maybe you can get the parts sent free?
Appreciate the tip on blow by.
John
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Shims were placed under the transfer port at the factory only as needed. Some lg100's have it, some don't. You should be able to cut the "washer" out of most anything thin and plastic. It is there as a spacer and not to hold pressure. AGAIN, I would urge you to visit the "Shooting the Breeze" website, both the general forum and http://www.shooting-the-breeze.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=48
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Thanks John! I also started using Napier Power Lube and it makes cleaning much much faster and easier. Four to five dry patches and its good to go.
I think it's only fair that I post my findings for others to see and possibly help somebody in the future.
I've looked at the parts list and it's not standard but since it was leaking you could say it was missing. Yes the teflon tape probably won't hold up. I'll try to make one but like I said I'm worried about the fact that there is a strong puff of air on the right but none on the left. Even before I put the tape under the TP the left part was sealing well.
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I understand that the teflon tape isn't the thing that is preventing the leak. It's only function is to raise the TP a bit higher up so that the o ring comes in better contact with the bolt. Making the washer isn't the problem. I'm concerned because the air is escaping just from one side and by lifting it up the TP even further I might be putting unwanted stress on the bolt or possibly other components.
Thanks for the forum suggestion I've read through pretty much every thread on the Steyr part of the forum that could benefit my troubleshooting and making the washer is a common fix.
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Yes, the leaking from one side is very strange. The angled portion of the receiver where the transfer port seats should be parallel with the bottom of the bolt. Is your barrel position set up for correct bolt lock up?
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The bolt locks up with a positive click. Before I took the barrel out for the first time I tried remembering as best I could how much force was required to unlock the bolt and I keep it there.
I should probably write en e-mail to Steyr they should know best what the problem can be, especially since it's a new rifle.
I should probably write en e-mail to Steyr they should know best what the problem can be, especially since it's a new rifle.
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Even if you have a little mismatch between the transfer port and the bolt, the green o-ring should still make a tight seal. Is the air leaking through the transfer port mounting threads? I would lose the teflon tape and concentrate on making a shim/washer for under the TP. You could probably get away with making one out of a business card for troubleshooting purposes.
On my LG110, if I leave the bolt closed for a couple of days it tends to stick on opening due to compression of that green o-ring. Do you get this? Look at the TP <> bolt gap from the side as the bolt is being closed. Does it look even?
Do you have a chronograph? Are you seeing high standard deviations? Like greater than 3-4? More than 10 ES in a string? Maybe a little air leak at the TP is not a big deal? I mean, your accuracy is acceptable now, isn't it?
Have you joined Shooting The Breeze? If you post your problem there I'm sure you could get an answer faster than you will from Steyr.
On my LG110, if I leave the bolt closed for a couple of days it tends to stick on opening due to compression of that green o-ring. Do you get this? Look at the TP <> bolt gap from the side as the bolt is being closed. Does it look even?
Do you have a chronograph? Are you seeing high standard deviations? Like greater than 3-4? More than 10 ES in a string? Maybe a little air leak at the TP is not a big deal? I mean, your accuracy is acceptable now, isn't it?
Have you joined Shooting The Breeze? If you post your problem there I'm sure you could get an answer faster than you will from Steyr.
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How can I check that?
No it doesn't stick. Probably because I lube the pellets and accidentally get some on the o ring when I fumble sometimes.
When looking from the side it seems even. I'll see if I can measure if the TP is tilted in some way.
The speeds are (were when I was first measuring) very consistent. I'll borrow the chrony again to verify.
It is much better but I cant help to think it could be even better if everything worked correctly.
I sent an e-mail to Steyr they were responsive when I was asking for some info before purchasing the rifle. I'll give it some time and then post it in STB.
No it doesn't stick. Probably because I lube the pellets and accidentally get some on the o ring when I fumble sometimes.
When looking from the side it seems even. I'll see if I can measure if the TP is tilted in some way.
The speeds are (were when I was first measuring) very consistent. I'll borrow the chrony again to verify.
It is much better but I cant help to think it could be even better if everything worked correctly.
I sent an e-mail to Steyr they were responsive when I was asking for some info before purchasing the rifle. I'll give it some time and then post it in STB.
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You really shouldn't have to go through this for such an expensive gun. Personally I wouldn't tinker with it unless you don't mind voiding the warranty and I would just return it for warranty work rather than to have all of the stress and headaches going into it especially blind without a chronograph. The authorized warranty repair center should have all of the necessary equipment and parts to get yours to shoot as good as it should and maybe even replace the barrel with a better one. I would also include a note to also inquire on bumping up the power since they are the experts (within the legal limits in your country).
AJ
AJ
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I would also state in the letter that I am not happy with the accuracy of this gun the way it is.
AJ
AJ
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