My evolution from Original Mod 50 & Webley Mk 3 to Walther LGU

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mike6j

Member
Sep 15, 2019
21
1
Wessex, United Kingdom
Good morning Gentlemen, 

Im a new member from England, and Ive been shooting all my life, pellet, rim and centre, shot and slug.

I started my air gunning in the early 1950's with an Original Mod 50 in .22, my Father liked that gun and bought me a Webley Mk 3 around '67 so we wouldn't argue about the Original. I still have both guns but alas my Father departed for the happy hunting grounds a few years ago

However I have decided to try one of the latest offerings and settled on a Walther LGU .177. This gun is a real piece of fine engineering, well made with a lovely trigger, but then anything would feel smooth if you had previously used a Mk 3.

The LGU is a scope only gun so Im considering a scope with an illuminated reticle as much of my shooting will be rats against a dark background in the early evenings. I will ask advice on the Optics section but if anyone has experience or advice on scoping an LGU feel free to reply.

This is the first shooting forum I have ever joined.

Many thanks.
 
In this age you will have MANY choices for a scope for the LGU. I have an LGU as well and agree totally with your assessment of the rifle. The trigger can be improved greatly with addition of a second screw to the stock trigger, purchase of the "tuning trigger" which has two screws, or purchase of a Rowan Engineering trigger. I have a modified stock trigger and a Rowan and both are excellent methods to improve the trigger. I have a UTG 8-32x56 which has the multi-illuminated reticle on a different rifle. That UTG reticle is overkill for any illumination needs with all the different illumination choices but it is very easy to use and it has worked very well across several springers and is currently on a PCP. It is a relatively inexpensive scope and as noted still works very well after long use. Others will note different choices as well. Congratulations on getting a very nice rifle and as noted welcome aboard.
 
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Thank you all for your replies.

Bandg - thank you for your advice on the Rowan trigger option but Im in England which means my rifle came with the two screw metal trigger as standard. However I will be polishing the tips of the screws and adding the poly tube modification that some users in the US have advocated. What is your opinion of the stock, especially the forward slope of the cheek rest, I have never seen a forward sloping rest before and continue to find it very uncomfortable, so much I already considering modifications to level it out, shorten its length and remove the rest completely on the opposite side. Its a heavy beast and such changes may even lighten it up a little. What do you think?



My rat shooting will be 30yards and less so a big sniper style scope isn't required, I have the added problem that much of it will be observed by greenie (eco) types who, while accepting a rat must be removed for public health reasons cannot accept any 'suffering' which means kills must instantaneous ie; a brain shot. Im well capable of doing the shooting but just require a scope that will provide a clear view and reticule, and that stands up to all this double recoil everyone goes on about these days (but oddly was unheard of 30years ago).

I rather like the compact 'tactical' scope designs, something in the 1-6x24 category. The Optisan Prestige 1-6 scope fits my requirements and their spec. states it will take the recoil of a 50cal (?) but says nothing about its close range focusing, I have contacted both the US and EU agents for information on this but neither has replied to date?? Does anyone have experience of this scope and its suitability for spring air rifles and/or close range use? Or any other compact optic you consider may be suitable?

I also plan to convert the 11mm Walther dovetail to take Picatinny rings, has anyone experience of this?
 
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The stock is a bit odd-somewhat off angle as you note and a bit bulky in general for my preference. But mine shoots so well that the slightly less than "perfect" stock setup doesn't bother me enough to feel the need to change it. As far as the mounting goes, there is a highly functional adapter that fits inside Picatinny mounts to adapt them to dovetail. They are spring loaded to stay open and go to place quite positively. I have several sets in use and I think that UTG makes those as well. They have always performed just as needed for using Picatinny or Weaver mounts on dovetail rails. Enjoy whatever scope you put on the rifle-lots of choices out there.
 
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I found the "tuning trigger" does little to help that gun. The second stage screw is too close to the pivot pin and it does not improve the leverage at all. You have to get a trigger where the second stage screw is closer to the first stage screw and further from the pivot pin to improve the leverage of the set up.

I am not sure, but from the pictures I see, the Rowan trigger is not much better than the stock or tuning trigger as far as position of the second stage screw goes. The Tony Leach trigger from Airgun Tech may solve the problem
 
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Thank you for your advice and the info on the Tony Leach trigger, I have tried to access the Airgun Tech website and it seems the owner has suffered a hacking problem and his site has crashed. Do you know if there is anywhere online that I might read about the engineering aspects of this modification?

From the videos I have watched where indivuals have stripped the LGU trigger mechanism all the parts appear to be mass produced press and folded components, as such I suspect even a little fettling would/might improve the quality of the trigger mechanism even before I consider making new part/s for the screw position you advise.




 
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Springrrrr's view is relevant and when I added a second screw to the stock trigger I did re-position the added screw for maximum advantage. I don't share his view on the Rowan trigger in that I have one and it is a dramatic improvement to the gun. Only you could answer the question for yourself by actually trying one. Could the Airgun Tech/Tony Leach trigger improve function? Possibly. Can you get one? Don't know. You mention "making new parts" as something you apparently can do. If that is the case, you could quite possibly be able to make a trigger that would be as ideal as possible. It should be a relatively simple piece and shouldn't be that difficult to make. I considered such and thought that I could do it and I only have a drill press, vices, drills, hand tools, and dremels to work with. But I am perfectly happy with the triggers on both my LGU and LGV using the modified stock trigger in one and the Rowan in the other. It would be interesting to have one of the Leach triggers to try, however.

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/walther-lgu-lgv-a-new-trigger-option/

Here is a link to a post discussing the Tony Leach trigger. I have not been able to locate a link to the Vendor's site or to actually see the trigger listed for sale anywhere. If it is available I would be interested in seeing such. As noted above, I don't believe that making such a unit would be extremely difficult.
 
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The new Rowan triggers now have a third hole. One in the middle of the two standard locations.

https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/the-supercustom-triggers-for-the-walther-lgu-and-lgv
Click to expand...

Good post and excellent information from HM as usual. The concept that there is only one place to "put the screws" is faulty as he describes. It is more a concept of balancing lightness against creep as HM notes. Some may prefer the "light" portion more (screws closer together) and some may prefer the "crisp" portion more (more screw separation). I try to lighten ALL trigger group return springs/friction points to the minimum possible for safe function and then am willing to trade off a little extra "pull weight" for the "crispness" of the decreased creep that the wider screw setup can provide. I did something very similar recently with the linkage setup on a Hatsan Gladius. I modified the "blade" at the actual sear block to a shorter linkage connection position. It increased "felt pull" weight due to less leverage (which I counteracted by lightening all return springs and aggressive polishing) but produced a VERY crisp feel and break to the second stage by virtue of each relative amount of movement of the trigger producing more movement of the blade. The result was a VERY GOOD trigger with a nice first stage takeup and then a clean and sharp break. It's a similar concept with the Walther platform (only no linkage involved)-a preferred balance between weight and crispness will probably come down to a choice for each shooter.
 
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