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My compressor builds temperature up very quickly

I own a YH type compressor, ive just made maintenance becasue it was not reaching enough pressure (only 180 bar and slooooowly), i changed the second stage rings and some orings and now the compressor is working well in terms of pressure....but it gets hot very quickly.

starting from an ambient temperature of 25/27degrees it reachs almost 70 degrees in less than a minute and i have to turn it off for cooling.

water pump is working properly.

do you know any reason for that heating?? or how can i fix it for not to reach temperature so quickly? what should i check?



Thanks in advance.

Regards!
 
You said that the water pump is working. Did you check the pump while it is connected to the YH - water flowing thru the head? Did you drain the oil when you worked on it? Did you refill with the proper oil and to the proper level? Did you clean the cylinders with anything that would break down the oil? Did you put anything on the new rings when reassembling?
 
Use cubed ice in the cooling water and a good fan blowing across the cylinders. Mine stays below 50 for as long as I want to run it that way.

same with mine, I sometimes would run it 30-40 minutes to top off a large 106 cu/ft bottle and would add more ice as needed.

I recently topped off a Great White again with the YH. I had an aluminum grate in my parts pile and I added that to the middle of my tool box water reservoir to keep ice more concentrated over the pump. I have my pump on one end of the box and return water empties at the other end. This seemed to produce a little slower melting of the ice and temps were 2-3 degrees lower than I last measured. Not sure it is worth a lot of trouble but it was available/easy to do and seemed to help a bit. As you note, I remove water through a PVC drain I added near the pump and then just add ice to fill, no need to stop running. Works well.
 
When I changed my 2nd stage piston rings my YH ran hot for the first few times I used it then it calmed down and went back to normal. Still it took twice as long as what you are experiencing to heat up. I use a couple of half gallon jugs of ice in a 2+ gallon water pail. It's good for 20 minutes which is all I need to top off my Great White and a 90ci Ninja tank as well.
 
Hi!

Thanks guys for all the responses!

well, the water flows correctly through the head, the oil was changed recently and the level is OK. I never use ice in the cooling water, only water at room temperature.

Also i dont need more than 5 minutes of continuous working, my maximum fill is 0.5liter at 300bar

the valves were cleaned and they are okei in my opinion, could you be more specific please??

There was white deposits in the inner part of the aluminium head, but i was not able to disassembly it to deep clean



I have seen many videos where temperature rarely goes up to 55 degrees after more than 10minutes of continuous working...



Thanks again!
 
Unfortunately i have no access to ice when using the compressor most of the time...



Assuming running it whithout ice, is it normal such high temperature (almost 70 degrees) in 1 minute?? It seems not to stabilize and keep getting hotter, but i turn it off before have risk of overheating.



But i would like it to work for more than a minute, so that i could charge my biggest tank (0,5 liter) in one go.



Thanks again for your help
 
Assuming running it whithout ice, is it normal such high temperature (almost 70 degrees) in 1 minute??

Did the temperature rise so quickly when it was new and producing pressure well ? or it was like that when you got it ?

You have mentioned that you cannot take the head apart to remove the white stuff inside the water jacket. There is no need to. Just pour some vinegar into the water hose to flood the water jacket, leave it over night and the white stuff should be mostly dissolved. I do it routinely on my YH. I could not see the inside the water jacket but after the vinegar treatment, the color of the silicone water hose changed from opaque white back to translucent 




 
The new rings are much tighter fitting than the worn out rings which causes more friction and therefore more heat. ....

Umm.... I doubt if that's the cause because I replaced the high-side piston + rings of my YH not too long ago but didn't notice any significant increase in the operating temperature afterwards. I fill rifles only so the run time is within 3 minutes. The temperature never got above 50 deg C but I feed it with water from the tap and the flow rate is much higher than that produced by the stock pump so may be it's not a good reference. 
 
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From the Yong Heng owners manual. I personally never let my compressor get anywhere near the listed max opperating temperature. The temp on the YH's do rise quickly when first started but 70°C in one minute indicates to me that something is wrong with your unit. What is the starting temp of your YH and are you using room temp water or cooler tap water?
 
70 degrees in one minute is not normal. A normal YH will see the temp. rise rapidly to about the mid-fifties and stabilise and then very slowly climb, if you keep running for 20-30 minutes, to maybe the low sixties. It depends on the ambient conditions. The op states that this is not a YH, but some other similar model so some assumptions may or may not be relevant. The owner's instructions above are accurate. A coolant working temperature of between 50 and 70 degrees sounds perfectly correct to me. I bet that the water in your bucket is nowhere near that. I've always maintained that adding ice is not only not necessary, it is likely doing more harm than good. In this case, I believe that the thermometer probe position is probably giving a reading that is unrelated to the actual coolant temperature. The YH sensor is also poorly located and leads a lot of people to believe that their machine is running hotter than they actually are. The best place to test the correct temp. is where the water comes out of the return hose. 70 degrees is hot enough to almost scold your hand. If the water coming out of that hose is only warm or warmish hot, then you don't have a problem. Check that the probe hasn't fallen out of its hole and lodged in between the cooling fins on the first stage. Things like what sort of oil and how often it is changed and changing piston rings are barking up the wrong tree and have absolutely nothing to do with your problem.
 
Assuming running it whithout ice, is it normal such high temperature (almost 70 degrees) in 1 minute??

Did the temperature rise so quickly when it was new and producing pressure well ? or it was like that when you got it ?

You have mentioned that you cannot take the head apart to remove the white stuff inside the water jacket. There is no need to. Just pour some vinegar into the water hose to flood the water jacket, leave it over night and the white stuff should be mostly dissolved. I do it routinely on my YH. I could not see the inside the water jacket but after the vinegar treatment, the color of the silicone water hose changed from opaque white back to translucent 




I will try with some vinegar to eliminate white deposits....the whole night with the pump running?? it wont damage any oring?




 
When i start to charge, Temp is around 27/30 degrees....hot days now. The water i use is the cooler the tap gives me i dont know exactly its temp but i assume around 25.



when the thrermometer is around 70 the water that comes out of the return hose isnt hot at all...maybe warm. but the head and links of the compressor are very hot if i touch it



when the compressor was new it never reached more than 60 when using it in normal contidions.
 
OK, this is just my imagination.....

It's not just the water that does the cooling. Compressed air leaving the compressor carries away a LOT of heat as well. May be it's worthwhile to check whether the reed valve blade at the top of the 2nd-stage cylinder is installed properly. The hole on the blade should be aligned with that on the cylinder head but there is NOTHING like alignment pins to ensure that.

Compressed air leaves the cylinder through that hole. If the hole is partially blocked because the blade's orientation is off, the air flow will be obstructed so more heat will stay in the cylinder. 

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