My .22 Commander

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Jim81

Member
Nov 2, 2017
550
35
Wa, United States
A few weeks ago I was on the forum explaining how my Commander was really inaccurate. Shot like a shotgun at 70 yds. Lots of suggestion of what to try and all failed. except one. That one said send it back for repair. I did. Some 3+ weeks later it's is back. They put a new barell on it. Now it's a shooter. Been getting my distances for turret adjustment. Got a Bushnell Match Pro and it's everyting they say it is.. The turrets are metal and are totally repeatable. Resetting the zero is simple. I have written down all the turret settings on some green frog tape and put the tape on my air tank. Get a distance look at the tape set the turret and pretty much hit what I was aiming at. I am rock solid to 50 but playing on the bench I am starting to group pretty good at 100. The gun is capable of it. The rest is up to me.. Oh! and all this was done with JSB Hades. No redesigned speciality ammo needed. Maybe later I'll test to see if there is a difference but if it ain't broke don't fix it! My first shot I nailed a Crow on a Dairy Farmers feed pile at 50 yds.

One complaint! The trigger sucks. I have a FX DReam Compact Tactical, a RTI Prophet, a Daystate Pulsar and they all have better triggers than the Commander. I bet it's a 12lb pull to get it to fire. Well! Maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration.What I have read is I can adjust the length of the pull but cannot lower the pounds'ounces to change trigger pull. Any thoughts?

I think I have discovered something. May not be true but I look on a sponsors site and they say preorder for a gun I am wanting to get. I call and say i don't do preorder if you can send the gun today I have a card number ready. Maybe it's just the luck of the draw but 3 times now I have seen preorder on a rifle I wanted on their website and used the method above and closed the purchase. I think in one case they did not have the rifle in the caliber I wanted but put me on hold and checked and found they had a barrell/probe kit to fit the rifle I wanted to get.in the caliber I wanted. They changed it out and i got the rifle.
 
Jim81 - Here is my take on how to improve the trigger - When I got my Sniper .22 HR Magnum bolt gun the trigger was very good. I was amazed that it came from the factory so light. Well, that didn't last long. After a couple hundred shots it would not cock because the trigger was too light. Had to readjust it heavier and that totally destroyed the feel of the trigger. It was terrible. Took it apart and using a small buffing tool on my Dremel I lightly buffed all the trigger/hammer release sear edges, about 5-6 of them. Did not polish them, just spent about 15 seconds on each to remove "that black coating" at the sear engagement edges. Did not readjust trigger pull from where I had adjusted it heavier and now it is at 8 oz and better than ever. That was a several thousand pellets ago and it has not changed.
 
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I've gone through some of the same scenarios as you. Firstly, I bought a new Uragan which was a scatter gun at 50 yards. AoA tried all of their in house magic, and finally determined that it was a barrel which had gotten messed up during the manufacturing process. I was highly relieved that it was, indeed, a bad barrel, and not me as a bad shooter! And thank you so much for the support in addressing and fixing the issue AoA!

Secondly, I have a love-hate relationship with Brococks. Definitely more love than hate - I just bought another one which is due to be delivered today. But of the 6 or 7 I have owned or tested, all but one had one little niggly issue which I couldn't resolve, and they have all been traded or sold. In some cases it was purely my fault - I had forgotten how much I dislike bolt actions as compared to side levers. In others it has been accuracy - had acceptable hunting accuracy but not bulls-eye target level accuracy. And in others they seemed to have the accuracy I wanted, but I could never get the triggers adjusted where I really wanted them, or to stay adjusted where I really wanted them.

But I love the product and its form factor, so I keep buying them. While I haven't wanted previously to get into the disassembly and polishing of trigger components, maybe this is something I will now have to learn. Or maybe I'll get lucky with this new gun and it will arrive 'perfect' like my first Sniper XR, which was just a fantastic gun but I wanted a different caliber than .177 at the time I sold it.
 
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Thanks for the comments. Shooter 44 the only thing not helpful about your post was 'take it apart'. I too am like TMH and don't want to get itnto the disassembly of a gun. I've messed with tools and stuff, have a home lathe and mill, and just MIG welded a muffler on my lawnmower, but going into those guns is a horse of a different color. However, if that's what it takes to change the trigger, I might give it a shot if I can't adapt my brain to a harder pull. Was pesting the other day and had been using the Brocock for some longer range shots and then was inside a barn with the FX compact on it's lowest settings and only touched the trigger I thought, and I was suprised when the thing fired. Might have to pur green frog tape on the other rifles that say something like, "old man remember this thing has a light trigger."

Nothing like sitting in your truck on the dairy farm watching the animals and occasionally taking out a bird that's eating and pooping on the farmer's feed supply.
 
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Jim81 - "going into those guns is a horse of a different color". Yea, know what you mean, however the trigger buffing went pretty easy. Only issue I had was parts # 42 & 41. They fell out when I removed part # 70. They are the power adjuster pin and spring. Runs in my mind there was a tiny ball at or on the top end of part 41, but can't remember exactly.

I drove out the pins holding parts 65 (trigger blade), 64 (trigger sear), and 46 (trigger lever to hammer sear) and lightly polished them to remove that black coating on them at the sear contact points along with the one on the hammer. Did not remove the hammer, just lightly worked on where it contacts the lever.

Mark those tiny springs carefully as you take them out. They are almost the same, but not quite.

I spent 3 times as much time looking for that spring then the rest of the project all put together, Study the diagram to understand how those tiny do-dads stay in place and work on a nice clean workplace that will not let them roll off.

Like I said, did not readjust the trigger after the polishing, Did use about 1/10 of a drop of locktite on the adjusting screw during that original adjustment.

It has been perfect ever since the polishing.

Here is my version of the parts list and schematic in pdf format. Since it is my version the parts name and numbers may not be accurate, use it as a guide only. It is in pdf format so if you save it to your computer you should be able to open and enlarge it as needed.

download.png
View attachment Bantam parts list and schematic.1651432784.pdf


 
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