Mounting Scopes

I have an athlon ares etr arriving here soon for my M3 and was curious as to what tools people would recommend I purchase for making sure I put the scope on correctly. I was pretty close to buying the wheeler reticle leveling system for 50 bucks but thought I would make a post first seeing what everyone else does. I should add I do plan to use this setup for long range hunting so having it level as possible is very important to me. 
 
You are on the correct track. While I didn’t buy the Wheeler, I purchased a nearly identical product for $39 on Amazon, with the adjustable barrel mounted bubble and two static bubbles to align with the barrel level, and this system works perfectly. I also use a length of hanging surveyor’s cord with a large nut on it to keep it taught, down range, for a final check just to be certain everything looks right.
 
A system of levels and/or wedges will do well enough in many cases but they work on the assumption that everything is mechanically perfect. 

Turns out the only tool you need is a mirror...

The requirements to eliminate cant error are:

1. Align the scope's reticle with the rifle's barrel.
2. Hold the reticle level when shooting.

Item 1 deals with scope cant…i.e. mounting the scope incorrectly.
Item 2 deals with gun cant…i.e. holding the gun incorrectly.

To correctly align the scope to the barrel, set up a mirror at a distance of, say, 5 yards and set your AO to 10 yards. Look through the scope at your reflection in the mirror. Twist the scope in the mounts until the vertical bar of the reticle simultaneously bisects both the muzzle and objective bell. Then lock it down. At this point you have eliminated scope cant (item 1). If it's hard to see your muzzle, add a little dot of White Out or take a dot from a hole punch and tape it to the muzzle with clear tape.

Now to eliminate rifle cant, install and use a level. View a known good plumb line (e.g. hanging string) through the scope and orient the rifle so it precisely aligns to it. Now affix your level so it indicates level. From now on when you're shooting, hold the rifle so it shows level and you can be sure you've eliminated both potential sources of cant error. (Note that a level which attaches to the rail will almost never be correct unless it has a separate fine adjustment, whereas a level that attaches to the scope tube can simply be rotated to the proper position and locked down.)
 
I like the wheeler scope set it is what I use but lately I just like this scope jack by fix-it-sticks it's so easy and fast check this out on the website. It goes on your picatinny rail and lifts up to the base of the scope and levels it perfect 
B9E598E2-A898-496C-8340-3587A921D379.1620217031.jpeg
35641B3A-ECD2-4872-807C-D10CFC25DEA4.1620217032.jpeg
8714FA9F-7757-49B7-BC2B-68E23E4150D5.1620217032.jpeg

 
I've been mounting scopes for years like this. Put the scope and rings on the receiver. Look at the the lower tip of the crosshair and twist the scope until it points directly to the middle center of the rail or receiver under the scope. I've used wedges and levels but this always works better for me. :Note I am a bit OCD and am the one that straightens peoples pictures out when i visit their homes, so I have a natural tendency to see when something isn't perfectly level and your results may vary.
 
I like the Wheeler system, but I also like the 'wedge' system - for the latter I use a machinist's adjustable parallel, which is substantially more accurate (not that it's really necessary). The adjustable parallel will not work if the scope erector tube is too close to the mount or rail (whatever is directly below it). I had not seen the Fix-It sticks scope jack - that's intriguing, but I have had some quality issues with Fix-It sticks (I might have just been unlucky) I do keep their torque limiters in my shooting kit. The mirror trick works great for scopes that focus super close. If yours doesn't, you can "trick" the parallax adjustment by cutting a hole (start small) in the center of a lens cap and putting it on the scopes objective, temporarily reducing the scopes parallax distance (and light gathering). 

GsT