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Mount and Zeroing Problem..

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MoHillbilly

MoHillbilly

Member
Jun 22, 2022
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Republic Missouri USA
I have a Beeman R9 .177 and put a new Hawke Airmax 30 FFP SF 4-16x50 with UTG high mounts on it. Problem I'm having is that it's shooting roughly 6" low and 3" left at 10yds, and I'm running out of adjustment before it will center. I'm thinking it pretty much has to be something with the mounts as the rifle was easily zeroed and driving tacks with the cheap Leapers scope that I had on it before. The Hawke is brand new and does try to zero, but just has too far to go to do it. Everything that's happening is consistent and it's sticking pellets almost in the same hole, just way down and over there. I've taken the scope and mounts back off, reinstalled them, same thing. Nothing is obvious from just looking at the setup, but something is definitely wrong..
I'm figuring on getting another set of mounts, but given I'm very new to scopes, is there possibly something I'm overlooking?
A picture of the scope/mount if it might help..
DBBD7928-5C96-414A-849B-D582343AC7D6.jpeg
 
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MoHillbilly said:
I have a Beeman R9 .177 and put a new Hawke Airmax 30 FFP SF 4-16x50 with UTG high mounts on it. Problem I'm having is that it's shooting roughly 6" low and 3" left at 10yds, and I'm running out of adjustment before it will center. I'm thinking it pretty much has to be something with the mounts as the rifle was easily zeroed and driving tacks with the cheap Leapers scope that I had on it before. The Hawke is brand new and does try to zero, but just has too far to go to do it. Everything that's happening is consistent and it's sticking pellets almost in the same hole, just way down and over there. I've taken the scope and mounts back off, reinstalled them, same thing. Nothing is obvious from just looking at the setup, but something is definitely wrong..
I'm figuring on getting another set of mounts, but given I'm very new to scopes, is there possibly something I'm overlooking?
A picture of the scope/mount if it might
Click to expand...

MoHillbilly said:
I have a Beeman R9 .177 and put a new Hawke Airmax 30 FFP SF 4-16x50 with UTG high mounts on it. Problem I'm having is that it's shooting roughly 6" low and 3" left at 10yds, and I'm running out of adjustment before it will center. I'm thinking it pretty much has to be something with the mounts as the rifle was easily zeroed and driving tacks with the cheap Leapers scope that I had on it before. The Hawke is brand new and does try to zero, but just has too far to go to do it. Everything that's happening is consistent and it's sticking pellets almost in the same hole, just way down and over there. I've taken the scope and mounts back off, reinstalled them, same thing. Nothing is obvious from just looking at the setup, but something is definitely wrong..
I'm figuring on getting another set of mounts, but given I'm very new to scopes, is there possibly something I'm overlooking?
A picture of the scope/mount if it might help..
View attachment 284097
Click to expand...
This is a common issue with many airguns. Sometimes when a scope/ring combination is installed on a particular gun, one MIGHT get lucky, and you'll be able to zero it with no problem. Change the scope, with the same rings, and it won't zero. As I tell everyone else that has this problem, buy fully adjustable scope mounts, I use Sportsmatch, or if you don't want to spend that much money, FX. I use Sportsmatch for all of my guns. This will 100% solve your problem. Remember to optically re-center your scope, DON'T go all the way in one direction until it stops and count clicks, you'll most likely ruin a cheaper scope.

Tom Holland
Field Target Tech
Fieldtargettech.com
 
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MoHillbilly said:
I have a Beeman R9 .177 and put a new Hawke Airmax 30 FFP SF 4-16x50 with UTG high mounts on it. Problem I'm having is that it's shooting roughly 6" low and 3" left at 10yds, and I'm running out of adjustment before it will center. I'm thinking it pretty much has to be something with the mounts as the rifle was easily zeroed and driving tacks with the cheap Leapers scope that I had on it before. The Hawke is brand new and does try to zero, but just has too far to go to do it. Everything that's happening is consistent and it's sticking pellets almost in the same hole, just way down and over there. I've taken the scope and mounts back off, reinstalled them, same thing. Nothing is obvious from just looking at the setup, but something is definitely wrong..
I'm figuring on getting another set of mounts, but given I'm very new to scopes, is there possibly something I'm overlooking?
A picture of the scope/mount if it might help..
Click to expand...

Were you using the same rings in the same front/rear positions with the previous Leapers scope?

When you took the current rings off and re-installed them did you reverse the front/rear rings?
 
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Scouty said:
Were you using the same rings in the same front/rear positions with the previous Leapers scope?

When you took the current rings off and re-installed them did you reverse the front/rear rings?
Click to expand...
They're different rings. Leapers was a 1" tube, Hawke is 30mm. Same height/brand, just different tube size. I didn't reverse them due to the stop pin. I can try it to see if there's a difference, but I can't use them like that because the springer will probably be moving them around without the pin to hold it all in place.
 
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Xbowsniper said:
This is a common issue with many airguns. Sometimes when a scope/ring combination is installed on a particular gun, one MIGHT get lucky, and you'll be able to zero it with no problem. Change the scope, with the same rings, and it won't zero. As I tell everyone else that has this problem, buy fully adjustable scope mounts, I use Sportsmatch, or if you don't want to spend that much money, FX. I use Sportsmatch for all of my guns. This will 100% solve your problem. Remember to optically re-center your scope, DON'T go all the way in one direction until it stops and count clicks, you'll most likely ruin a cheaper scope.

Tom Holland
Field Target Tech
Fieldtargettech.com
Click to expand...
Sounds like that's likely going to be the way I go. Answered two questions in one as I was wondering about how well adjustable rings really worked. I will look into them. Thank you!
 
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Ca_Varminter said:
Many Break-Barrels suffers from Barrel Droop...
So I use Aluminum strips under the scope at the rear ring!!

As for windage problems..
Try switching rings...Also flipping the ring so the clamping is on the opposite side..
But if this doesn't help...adjustable rings are needed

Good Luck,
Stuart
Click to expand...
From what I've read, Beeman doesn't seem to suffer from droop as much as others, plus it's a new gun, less than 100 pellets through it. I'm going to look into adjustable rings, sounds like probably the best way to go in the end.
 
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After doing some checking with a small bubble level, it looks to be that the rings are just off. Checking several places along the top of the rifle from the barrel to the main body of the gun, then the top turret of the scope.. Noticeable difference in where they align, in the direction that would make it shoot really low.
Have another set of mounts on the way. Thanks for all the input and advice everyone!
 
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MoHillbilly said:
After doing some checking with a small bubble level, it looks to be that the rings are just off. Checking several places along the top of the rifle from the barrel to the main body of the gun, then the top turret of the scope.. Noticeable difference in where they align, in the direction that would make it shoot really low.
Have another set of mounts on the way. Thanks for all the input and advice everyone!
Click to expand...
Even if that is the case and you got a defective set of rings, it would be in your best interest to get something with some droop compensation in it, hence the RWS recommendation above. Its basically like a 30moa rail that will keep you at least close to optically centered
 
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MoHillbilly said:
From what I've read, Beeman doesn't seem to suffer from droop as much as others, plus it's a new gun, less than 100 pellets through it. I'm going to look into adjustable rings, sounds like probably the best way to go in the end.
Click to expand...
"Droop" isn't necessarily something that a springer suffers from after heavy use. The barrels just point downward ever so slightly from the factory, and yes, some HWs do have it. Both my HW50S and my HW35E are like this.
 
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Sqwirlfugger57 said:
Even if that is the case and you got a defective set of rings, it would be in your best interest to get something with some droop compensation in it, hence the RWS recommendation above. Its basically like a 30moa rail that will keep you at least close to optically centered
Click to expand...
How high do they set the scope. That was the main hold back I had with the RWS setup, nowhere did it give any sort of height measurement. The Hawke is a 50mm objective and "high" rings are pretty much a must to insure that it won't be an interference fit. Seen some mentions of it being used with a 40mm scopes, but nothing else.
 
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MoHillbilly said:
How high do they set the scope. That was the main hold back I had with the RWS setup, nowhere did it give any sort of height measurement. The Hawke is a 50mm objective and "high" rings are pretty much a must to insure that it won't be an interference fit. Seen some mentions of it being used with a 40mm scopes, but nothing else.
Click to expand...

Here it is on my HW35E with a Hawke Sidewinder 30 4-16x50:

20220821_080547.jpg
 
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I have 3 scopes in Sportsmatch fully adjustable mounts. My first problem was a Diana 54 AirKing Pro. I tried a Hawke Airmax compact(30mm tube) in a Diana zero recoil mount and did not have enough windeage to get to within 4" of the bull at 20 yards. Got a Sportsmatch mount, recentered my scope and actually zeroed the rifle using the mount, Takes a lot of trial and error but with enough time and perseverence it can be done. I since moved that scope and mount to another rifle and put a smaller 1" tube scope on the Diana, using a 1 piece Sportsmatch. It is much more difficult to zero, To change elevation the scope and mount must be removed from the dovetail rail. Windeage can be adjusted while on the gun. With the two piece mount all adjustments can be made while on the gun.
 
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Sqwirlfugger57 said:
Yeah its a nice and cheap solution to a common "problem". The only downside to the mount is that it doesn't work with compact scopes but that isn't something you need to worry about with the Airmax.
Click to expand...
We’ll, the HWS mount won’t work on my Airmax after all. There’s a little protrusion on the bottom of the scope that’s hitting the mount and I can’t level the reticle. So close, but no cigar..

924DE1A7-7569-4E5A-BD48-49D7C2891AD2.jpeg
 
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