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Mike,

I would have to see what you mean, snipping it off, as I am not using a regular reloading press, I'm using the Corbin press. Once you see the ease of making slugs in one step, the difference will be obvious. I'm still trying to figure out how to do it with the reloading press as you described. I do know with the reloading press the die sits at the top of the press, as compared to the Corbin press the die sits in the ram, and moves with the handle. The pellets weight is determined by how you adjust the die, and every slug comes out exactly the same, within reason. 

I'll try to get the video out before the weekend, so maybe that'll give you a little help.

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Xbowsniper,

So with using a reloading die the part the threads into the die always has the base punch so for me it’s the cup base. The shell holder I put in the weight adjusting punch first. It forms the base in the top and pushes extra out the bottom. Once that comes out there is a “tail” of extra that has to be snipped. I then take that punch out of the shell holder and then put in the hollowpoint punch. I run it back up and it puts the hollowpoint in. I don’t know if I over pressured it but it is messing up the hollowpoint no matter how much or how little pressure I put. It’s “breaking” the tip off. They sent a sample it made and I can’t get the nice even thin tip. I might have to get another punch and they come as a set. So I might get a flat base with another hollowpoint punch. I kind of wish I bought their press but since this is just for fun I couldn’t justify the expense. Thanks for all your help. Just got to keep trying
 
Mike,

I'm going to post a video on this soon. I'm still trying to understand the process of how you are doing this, I would think it has something to do with the lead bleeding off.....or not. When you do the first process, does lead bleed out of a tiny hole in your die? You also have to make sure everything is adjusted right......you do not want to bottom any of the punches out with each other. This is called "crashing" and will damage the punches, dies, or both. I'll see if I can find a video on swaging with a regular press, then maybe I will have a clearer picture. 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
The first process forms the base on the top and bleeds excess out the bottom. Then I change out the bottom die for the hollow point and swage again. I noticed when I cut the extra off it was leaving a small tail and it was messing up the hollowpoint. So I flipped it around so the “tail” makes the base and the other side makes the hollowpoint. It’s making great slugs now. I will post pics of the steps later. Still looking forward to your video. Thanks for all you do
 
Mike,

Thanks, I'm here to help.

I think I understand a little better with your last description, I think I got it now.

Question......would it save time if you put a bunch of them through the first step, then ran the same bunch for the second step? Seems like changing the punch after each step back and forth would wear thin. It would for me, anyway!!

I tried the 15 grain 3/4 ogive slugs in the Steyr and TM 1000, and results were the same. OK, but not great. I'll have to wait until the other equipment arrives. 

I CAN say that the Crosman 1720T pistol LOVES them. Was nailing a one gallon coffee can at 100 yds, no problem. 

I filmed the video, it's a little crappy, but it shows the process. I just need to edit it a little ( my editing skills suck, so don't get your hopes up too high!!), and hopefully by tonight, I'll have it posted, if not tomorrow. 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Xbowsniper,

I definitely run a whole bunch through the first step. Then run it in and make the hollowpoint. I just made some 23 and 27 grain. I have the 1E .217. I was shooting .217 24 grain VK and they were doing good. Then shot the .218 NSA 23 grain and they shot well. I’m hoping if the .217 is a hair small the cup base in the back will “flare” a bit and seal well. Are you having any luck with the hollowpoint? Do you only shoot .177? Im glad to are getting some good results. I’m hoping this big hollowpoint will fly fairly well and not kill my BC for the slug. No judgement on editing skills. Just taking the time to make the videos and helping others is all that matters. 


 
Mike,

Cool. At the moment, I'm only doing .1775, as that is the size that was matched to my RAW TM1000, and Steyr barrels by Corbin. I do not think the Cup base will flare at all, it's the aerodynamic signature of the base that makes the pellet act different. 

According to Corbin, the hollowpoint does not affect the BC of the slug/bullet until you start getting into the longer spire points, like a 300 grain .338 Lapua Magnum. Even with a 285 grain bullet of the same caliber, the match rounds have a tiny hollowpoint in the tip, and that piles up the air waves in front of the projectile, and bucks the wind much better than a solid point. That is the weapon of choice in some of those record breaking 2500+ yard sniper kills. With the solid point version of what we are using, the nose is so rounded, that a hollowpoint version of it does not affect it. If it was pointier, it would. I'm getting OK results from the hollowpoint, the solid point versions are basically useless. The hollowpoints are much better, but still not to my liking. Once I get the 3 different base punches, and the 2S die, I'm optimistic that I can get something to work out. If nothing else, the 1720T loves em.

Look for the video,

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Xbowsniper,

got out this morning for some range time. I made 100 23 grain slugs and only about 30 27 grain slugs. 23 were shooting 930 and the 27 were 885 without changing the tune. I was very surprised how well they both shot. If I did my part they were 3/8” or smaller groups at 50 yards. I got the 23 grain NSA basically one ragged hole at 50. Definitely better than I was expecting. Mine were cup base and the NSA were flat. Might need to get a dish base punch and see what happens.