Has anyone tried fitting a tuxing molecular filter intake to a YH compressor intake ?
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Molecular filter intake
- Thread starter KnightBishop
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A molecular sieve intake filter is a waste of money and basically useless. Molecular sieve beads extract moisture when under high pressure. Intake air is at atmospheric pressure. Molecular sieve works by adsorption not absorption. Adsorption means high pressure squeezes the moisture out of the air under pressure which causes it to attach to sieve beads. The sieve beads are designed to get the last vestiges of residual moisture that aren't captured by the water separator element of most quality-built compressors made for breathing air. Tuxing placed an intake filter on their 2 stage compressors more as selling gimmick than for moisture removal.
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@Humdinger Now this is interesting. So is this why the filtration media is in the air purifier cylinder in an Alkin? It works because the pressurized air is forced through it before traveling into a SCBA tank?
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On intake side the molecular filter is not as effective as the output side. I had that setup for several months, I could see the desiccant changing colour, but when I opened my Reg to clean it = I immediately bought the dual stage in between the compressor and the tank.
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Agree, more gimmick than helpful, recall watching a 3-year old video, "Yong Heng Compressor Set-Up Secrets," by moonlitnite49, where he described air flow concerns resulting from adding devices to his compressor's air inlet, another reason to avoid. WM
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You got it. Plus, a dwell time of the pressurized air is key. Generally a pressure maintaining valve (PMV) is installed at the outlet of the final filter dryer to keep air in the dryer until it reaches approximately 1700-2200 psi. Once the set pressure is reached, dry air leaves the dryer.
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Correct. But I have read about intake filters that use the dessicant beads that change colors as the absorb humidity but is really minimal drying. If I was going to add something to the intake side I would definitely add a magnahelic gauge so you can assure that you aren’t starving the first stage of air.
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in the ole power plant the "instrument air" dryers used the blue/pink beads as indicators in a sight window for a visual , the dryer was full of the white beads
The dryers are always located in the pressurized outlet air stream, only had normal air filters on the inlet of the compressor for dust and dirt. There are water traps that remove the liquid water before it goes to the desiccant dryer. similiar set up as the dive compressors Bauer, Coltri, Alkin, Tex,air, etc
Hand pumps are just slow compressors, like a Roman slave galley, stoke, stroke, stroke
The dryers are always located in the pressurized outlet air stream, only had normal air filters on the inlet of the compressor for dust and dirt. There are water traps that remove the liquid water before it goes to the desiccant dryer. similiar set up as the dive compressors Bauer, Coltri, Alkin, Tex,air, etc
Hand pumps are just slow compressors, like a Roman slave galley, stoke, stroke, stroke
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Precisely. No quality compressor maker uses sieve on the intake side. The Tuxing TXEDT032 air intake molecular sieve filter is an ineffective sales gimmick. No dwell time in the media under high pressure means the air is just bypassing the media.
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In fact some compressors (like Bauer) and purifier systems have a Pressure Maintaining Valve..
The will not let air pass until a set pressure level is reached.
This to insure the adsorption process of Molecular sieve to work optimally.
I added one to my W31... the set pressure is about 2500 psi before the any air will start flowing!!
Stuart
The will not let air pass until a set pressure level is reached.
This to insure the adsorption process of Molecular sieve to work optimally.
I added one to my W31... the set pressure is about 2500 psi before the any air will start flowing!!
Stuart
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My W31 has one on the output side of the purifier filter tower. It is standard on Alkins and Bauers, optional on Coltri compressors.
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Say you could remove moistute down to 1% on the intake then what?
Compress that air 100 times to 1450psi and youre right at 100% and up that to 3000psi and youre at 200%.
So not completly useless but no way near enough, you do need to remove residual moisture on the HP side.
There's no way around it.
Compress that air 100 times to 1450psi and youre right at 100% and up that to 3000psi and youre at 200%.
So not completly useless but no way near enough, you do need to remove residual moisture on the HP side.
There's no way around it.
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Correct. Or don’t do it and figure on a complete replacement of corroded parts in your airgun eventually.
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You could remove excess moisture on the output and avoid internal corrosion at all!
Just a thouht!
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