Moisture. How big a deal is it?

[sd619223]

This is often stated, and is true with qualifications. In principle, for a given amount of either desiccant or chilling, the statement is true. But with an appropriately sized desiccant filter, or with a deep enough temperature of chilling, air can be "dried" (aka have the vapor level reduced) just fine before compression.

The main reason that it is "easier" to dry air after compression is because the act of compression itself drives much of the water vapor out of the air, and then also because the amount air flow is reduced significantly because the pressurised air is denser (ame amount of air, just with molecules closer together). This increases dwell time in the filter dramatically.

But those that say we can't dry before compression are just wrong, or at least misreading the facts.

seems like the best solution to the moisture problem would be to learn what components are directly in contact with the moist air and learn to tearn down and maintain those areas.

 

[AlanMcD]

So for moisture removal in general, and for owners of the CS4 in particular, what is the best way to reduce moisture? And what is the most cost-effective method?

I think I answered that in post 57 above. If you really don't want to spend the money on the Coltri filter and media, you could go with the Amazon gold filter and use rechargeable silica get in it, or make your own replacement media with molecular sieve beads for even more assurance of dry air (especially if you shoot a lot in freezing conditions).

 

[AlanMcD]

seems like the best solution to the moisture problem would be to learn what components are directly in contact with the moist air and learn to tearn down and maintain those areas.

Honestly, I completely disagree - the best solution is to do the simple things needed to keep excess water vapor out of the guns in the first place. Then there will never be an issue with moisture to have to manage in our air guns.

 

[F6Hawk]

I think I answered that in post 57 above. If you really don't want to spend the money on the Coltri filter and media, you could go with the Amazon gold filter and use rechargeable silica get in it, or make your own replacement media with molecular sieve beads for even more assurance of dry air (especially if you shoot a lot in freezing conditions).

Ahhh, sorry, I missed that one. But I read your post about pressurizing the air and passing it thru a Wilkerson to the compressor. Thanks!

 

[sd619223]

Honestly, I completely disagree - the best solution is to do the simple things needed to keep excess water vapor out of the guns in the first place. Then there will never be an issue with moisture to have to manage in our air guns.

removing water from the compressor appears to be full of solutions from people who are suggesting remedies that are inefficient or don't work as it supposed to. it would be nice if some one could show the ideal preventative maintenance (teardown videos) necessary on the various pcp to take care of moisture issues. a simple video on how to protect parts that are affected, and best lubricant against metal corrosion

 

[rcs9250]

Honestly, I completely disagree - the best solution is to do the simple things needed to keep excess water vapor out of the guns in the first place. Then there will never be an issue with moisture to have to manage in our air guns.

Honestly, I think he was being facetious.
This subject honestly is beat to death over and over and over and over and will never ever stop.

 

[rcs9250]

I think I answered that in post 57 above. If you really don't want to spend the money on the Coltri filter and media, you could go with the Amazon gold filter and use rechargeable silica get in it, or make your own replacement media with molecular sieve beads for even more assurance of dry air (especially if you shoot a lot in freezing conditions).

I would be curious if anyone has ever used one of those mini filters (photo) and cut the cigarette filters they come with into maybe 1/4” slices on the ends of the chsmber and molecular sieve beads in between. And maybe a spring to keep the beads compressed to assure channeling doesn’t occur.
Bottom line, you just don’t know how dry it is without spending money to have it tested. And the test we did quarterly at the dive shop required the air to flow at a certain SCFM for 10 or 15 minutes. I doubt a Yong or any other small compressor would hit the required SCFM. But perhaps there are other ways to test smaller samples and flow rates.

 

[Trucker3573]

I would be curious if anyone has ever used one of those mini filters (photo) and cut the cigarette filters they come with into maybe 1/4” slices on the ends of the chsmber and molecular sieve beads in between. And maybe a spring to keep the beads compressed to assure channeling doesn’t occur.
Bottom line, you just don’t know how dry it is without spending money to have it tested. And the test we did quarterly at the dive shop required the air to flow at a certain SCFM for 10 or 15 minutes. I doubt a Yong or any other small compressor would hit the required SCFM. But perhaps there are other ways to test smaller samples and flow rates.

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You really don’t want to put beads into such a filter. In my opinion even putting them in the cotton could allow the moisture collected by them (which ends up being acidic) to directly contact the metal filter itself. Eventually you have a small bomb just waiting to go off

 

[F6Hawk]

You really don’t want to put beads into such a filter. In my opinion even putting them in the cotton could allow the moisture collected by them (which ends up being acidic) to directly contact the metal filter itself. Eventually you have a small bomb just waiting to go off

I agree. I bought one, and once I had it in my hands, I realized my plan of using any sieve or silica was fruitless. Way too small. Ordered one of the bigger ones with a plastic sleeve to contain the 3A sieve/charcoal, and I know I can easily source the 3A sieve material as well as charcoal, but still looking for the fiber discs (though this kit seems to come with quite a few).

Amazon.com

The one thing that concerns me is that all the in-line filters on Amazon seem to claim to be for 30 Mpa, which is only 4350 PSI/300 Bar, not 4500/310 for most SCBA bottles.

 

[BlackICE]

I 3d printed small container with a screw on lid to hold about 4cc of desiccant that fit's inside of the small filter after cutting the tampon in half. It won't absorb much water, but will be a good indicator if more needs to be done. My guess is that the compressor will pass more water than 4cc can handle. I going to connect this to the CS4 I just got. One side benefit is that this will take up a lot of the internal volume so the pressure should build up faster.

 

[Bigragu]

You can do all the moisture filtration you want, but if you don’t store your guns properly in a controlled temp environment moisture will find a home inside your gun. Just finished working on an impact that wouldn’t seal in the reg area behind the trigger. It was found with the use of a borescope the inside cavity of that reg tunnel had signs of corrosion to the point the o rings wouldn’t seal up. Long story short, it was found that the gun was temporarily stored out in a garage for where temps got super cold at nights and warm during the day.