Benjamin Marauder pistol, hammer drag, rough cocking, what to do?

[HVAC.Supertech]

I have a new Marauder Pistol made in 2018, I rebuilt it with Hill Airgun 105 complete kit, hammer, PEEK striker, springs, fill valve, new o-rings.

I have shot about 1500 rounds through it and have developed very rough and choppy cocking.

I plan on chamfering and polishing all edges in the hammer area of the tube. However I'm not sure this will solve my problem based on the "drag marks" seen in the pictures below. The bottom, backside of the hammer is dragging on the bottom of the tube. Any suggestions while I have it apart?

 

[SqrlHntr]

Dry lube the hammer and hammer area once in a while. Better yet, deburr and hone the hammer area only with a ball hone then clean, dry and dry lube with graphite powder. Also watch over tightening the rear screws and a loose pin on the hammer. Locktite helps the pin. Lastly, check your hammer adjuster and make sure it’s not binding up either. Wear marks are common to see on the lightweight hammer. I’ve been using a pre-production one for a while now and some of it is still blue. Hope it helps and happy shooting!

 

[Airgun-Revisions]

You went from a factory lubricated hammer to a none lubricated one.

 

[bearair]

Polish the snot out of that tube until the marks are all gone. Throw away the hill hammer and get a 1710t hammer from crosman. Use some graphite on the hammer and tube and don't look back. I had this problem on my fortitude. I took these steps and it ramificated the situation. Good luck buddy.

 

[Firewalker]

Your galling, graphite is great for maintaining the separation between two lightly bearing, low load surfaces but fails on uneven surfaces. You may need to use a high grit polishing paper to knock down high points then use an actual lubricant such as a light machine oil on the surface every few shooting sessions to maintain the film.

Using anything that opens the space all around will exacerbate the issue. Only focus on the area of gall.

 

[HVAC.Supertech]

I applied the dry lube provided by Hill, I wiped it off to find the drag points/galling areas. The bottom, backside of the hammer is the only area galling, I still have the factory hammer.

 

[HVAC.Supertech]

Your galling, graphite is great for maintaining the separation between two lightly bearing, low load surfaces but fails on uneven surfaces. You may need to use a high grit polishing paper to knock down high points then use an actual lubricant such as a light machine oil on the surface every few shooting sessions to maintain the film.

Using anything that opens the space all around will exacerbate the issue. Only focus on the area of gall.

This makes mechanical sense to me. Via my calipers, the Hill hammer is about a half thousandths smaller than the factor hammer, opening the tube via honing would theoretically make a smaller hammer tilt in the tube. However this is my first PCP and I have no practical experience with these.

 

[HVAC.Supertech]

 

[HVAC.Supertech]

You went from a factory lubricated hammer to a none lubricated one.

I wiped off all the dry lube from Hill for pictures.

 

[Firewalker]

This makes mechanical sense to me. Via my calipers, the Hill hammer is about a half thousandths smaller than the factor hammer, opening the tube via honing would theoretically make a smaller hammer tilt in the tube. However this is my first PCP and I have no practical experience with these.

Correct, it accelerates wear.

 

[PEP3]

What was wrong with the factory hammer? All a Prod needs is a regulator and different transport sizes to achieve the best tunes you could ever imagine.

 

[HVAC.Supertech]

What was wrong with the factory hammer? All a Prod needs is a regulator and different transport sizes to achieve the best tunes you could ever imagine.

To my knowledge, not a darn thing. The pistol had been sitting in a friend of mine‘s closet since 2018. After he gave it to me, I figured it would need new O-rings. Upon which time my desire to modify everything I own took over.

And here I am having a blast learning about these things. I plan on buying a .20 cal from Airgun Revisions, I figured there’s no better way to learn about what I really want than by going down this road. I love these things.

 

[PEP3]

To my knowledge, not a darn thing. The pistol had been sitting in a friend of mine‘s closet since 2018. After he gave it to me, I figured it would need new O-rings. Upon which time my desire to modify everything I own took over.

And here I am having a blast learning about these things. I plan on buying a .20 cal from Airgun Revisions, I figured there’s no better way to learn about what I really want than by going down this road. I love these things.

New o-rings is probably not a bad idea and very easy to do. I just feel that people go way too far with their prods when it is already a mechanical masterpiece. With a regulator and different size transfer ports can tune them for massive low power shot strings or crank it up for crazy power. Using larger port sizes allows you to run less hammer spring, which really helps stop hammer bounce.

 

[rayroz]

Or get it back to factory specs and shoot the snot out of it , have fun
Ray

 

[Ranchibi]

Congrats on the new to you Prod and kudos to you for learning it's inner workings! Enjoy shooting it once your mods are finished.

 

[joelayfield]

its too bad you cant fit a JSAR nylon hammer in it ! very smooth as long as it doesnt get grease or silicone on it , doesn't gall , my rifle is very smooth , if you could get one and turn it down to fit your pistol you would love how smooth the cocking is ,