Benjamin Marauder bolt drag

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abstruse

abstruse

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May 3, 2025
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Regarding the known characteristic of Marauder bolt drag, it's obvious that the bolt is being pulled from one side only, which cocks (sorry) the bolt a bit. I'm guessing that if it were pulled straight back, it wouldn't bind/drag. I'll try this.

Has anyone experimented with having the bolt Teflon coated or hard chromed or some other slick coating (e.g. "DLC," diamond-like coating that's used on knife blades)?
 
I'm all set to smoothen mine out...but I'm having too much fun shooting it (and more squirrels keep showing up daily). I'll get there eventually. I have an old can of Mos2 from molycoating jacketed boolits ages ago. Somewhere I have a dedicated vibrator/tumbler/case cleaner that is black with moly. I'll just toss the hammer in that for a few hours after going over it with my bag of deburr/polishing tricks.

It isn't awful now (out of the box, less than 1000 rds thru it), I just know it can be better...easily.
 
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abstruse said:
Regarding the known characteristic of Marauder bolt drag, it's obvious that the bolt is being pulled from one side only, which cocks (sorry) the bolt a bit. I'm guessing that if it were pulled straight back, it wouldn't bind/drag. I'll try this.

Has anyone experimented with having the bolt Teflon coated or hard chromed or some other slick coating (e.g. "DLC," diamond-like coating that's used on knife blades)?
Click to expand...

What I have found is that using a thumb rest, either the one from AGR or go to a hardware store and buy a bolt and paint it black, makes cocking very easy and as easy as a side lever on my SL M-Rod. These two M-Rod .25 rifles have the AGR thumb rest. It is a machine piece and does take blue. I also have done similar with stainless steel bolt.





The way it works is that you place your thumb on the rest and grasp the bolt inward as close to centerline as possible and then squeeze your hand like squeezing a rubber ball. Now, I have large hands and worked as a mechanic some so they are pretty strong. A small child or woman might not have the grasp or reach but I figure most folks would have no issue there.

I use a white lithium grease on the bolt. The suggestions by AGR in post #4 are spot on.
 
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3Crows said:
What I have found is that using a thumb rest, either the one from AGR or go to a hardware store and buy a bolt and paint it black, makes cocking very easy and as easy as a side lever on my SL M-Rod. These two M-Rod .25 rifles have the AGR thumb rest. It is a machine piece and does take blue. I also have done similar with stainless steel bolt.





The way it works is that you place your thumb on the rest and grasp the bolt inward as close to centerline as possible and then squeeze your hand like squeezing a rubber ball. Now, I have large hands and worked as a mechanic some so they are pretty strong. A small child or woman might not have the grasp or reach but I figure most folks would have no issue there.

I use a white lithium grease on the bolt. The suggestions by AGR in post #4 are spot on.
Click to expand...
Nice looking rifle
 
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3Crows said:
What I have found is that using a thumb rest, either the one from AGR or go to a hardware store and buy a bolt and paint it black, makes cocking very easy and as easy as a side lever on my SL M-Rod. These two M-Rod .25 rifles have the AGR thumb rest. It is a machine piece and does take blue. I also have done similar with stainless steel bolt.





The way it works is that you place your thumb on the rest and grasp the bolt inward as close to centerline as possible and then squeeze your hand like squeezing a rubber ball. Now, I have large hands and worked as a mechanic some so they are pretty strong. A small child or woman might not have the grasp or reach but I figure most folks would have no issue there.

I use a white lithium grease on the bolt. The suggestions by AGR in post #4 are spot on.
Click to expand...
Bolt size and thread? I often use my thumb on the back of the cap...but I can see that a little extra length would be mo bettah.
 
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trapdoor2 said:
Bolt size and thread? I often use my thumb on the back of the cap...but I can see that a little extra length would be mo bettah.
Click to expand...
It is 5/8-18 thread. The additional length is what makes the hand squeeze work. Maybe somebody with small hands might be okay resting on the end cap though possibly uncomfortable.
 
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trapdoor2 said:
I just measured the hole. Probably 3/8-24. 5/8" is waaaay to big.
Click to expand...

Sorry about that, I was going off my memory. I went and looked and it is 3/8X24. You should be able to purchase at a hardware store. I bought them a little longer than the AGR part so I could cut the length to work best with my rifle and hands. Here they are in comparison, I have not cut (or turned) the part yet. I like the black oxide finish as it can be easily blued.

IMG_1589.jpeg
 
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3Crows said:
Sorry about that, I was going off my memory. I went and looked and it is 3/8X24. You should be able to purchase at a hardware store. I bought them a little longer than the AGR part so I could cut the length to work best with my rifle and hands. Here they are in comparison, I have not cut (or turned) the part yet. I like the black oxide finish as it can be easily blued.

View attachment 572079
Click to expand...
No problem, I just hadn't stopped 2 sec. to measure. All they had were grade 8, X 1-1/4" long. Grade 8 might test my hacksaw...but it fits fine. I'm an old mech. Won't take but a few minutes.
1000004245.jpg

Done!
 
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trapdoor2 said:
No problem, I just hadn't stopped 2 sec. to measure. All they had were grade 8, X 1-1/4" long. Grade 8 might test my hacksaw...but it fits fine. I'm an old mech. Won't take but a few minutes.View attachment 572090
Done!
Click to expand...

Good, I was worried I owed you gas money :).

Grade 5 or 8 will not be terrible to cut. I usually zip bolts off with a pneumatic cutoff wheel and then dress on a belt sander. You can spray paint it black. I like to dress the bolt markings from the head. A lath can dress of the hex shape if wanted. Many ways to skin that cat(fish).

Adjust the length to clear the stock and fit your grip. You should, with a bit of technique practice, now find cocking to be much easier and more tactile. Grip the bolt in close to the center line, not out on the end. If you have a stiff hammer spring (which my rifles do not have) a bit of wrist flex as you squeeze increases your leverage.

I put a dab of Vibratite on the end threads and let it dry. Then threaded in. This keeps it from back out.
 
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3Crows said:
Good, I was worried I owed you gas money :).

Grade 5 or 8 will not be terrible to cut. I usually zip bolts off with a pneumatic cutoff wheel and then dress on a belt sander. You can spray paint it black. I like to dress the bolt markings from the head. A lath can dress of the hex shape if wanted. Many ways to skin that cat(fish).

Adjust the length to clear the stock and fit your grip. You should, with a bit of technique practice, now find cocking to be much easier and more tactile. Grip the bolt in close to the center line, not out on the end. If you have a stiff hammer spring (which my rifles do not have) a bit of wrist flex as you squeeze increases your leverage.

I put a dab of Vibratite on the end threads and let it dry. Then threaded in. This keeps it from back out.
Click to expand...
LOL. The bolt cost me more than the gas...
Hacksaw went right thru it, of course. I avoid cutoff wheels as much as possible (my brother lost an eye to one). A little file work, done. I kinda like the cad-plating.

It is comfy and it does help. If I want to dress it up, I have lots of fancy hardwood around to make a button.

Thanks!
 
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