Magic Pellet Lube??? 50% Increase in Accuracy??? Anyone try this yet???

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I've never tried Napier but I know that some use it for sure. I used Fp-10 in my .25 WarP barrel and it kept the barrel from getting fouled so quickly due to the tight choke but from what I could tell it didn't make my gun any more accurate. Have tried it in other guns and it actually hurt accuracy. Pellet lubing is one of those things you just have to try and see if your gun prefers it or not. Not sure how they can guarantee a 50% accuracy increase... Marketing I'm sure.
 
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I have a drawer with about 5 different types of pellet lubes. Some guns like it, some do not. Airhog used to sell a special tin called Boar Oil. I think it will last FOREVER. 



I tired of messy oils on my fingers though, and switched over to McLube Sailcoat. A dry spray lube that is really good. I take my pellets, place them in a plastic colander, wash them well with Dawn, then after they are dry, I would spray a towel until wet, and roll the pellets in the towel until coated. 



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Oil on pellets ... as a trace can work well to lessen fouling to some degree.

TOO MUCH and you create an ongoing ever increasing layer of lead dust / oil MUCK !! that will absolutely kill accuracy.

Ideally a bore that is well polished / lapped & NOT using any oil is best for nearly all pellet gun applications. There are those such as the tight choked TJ barrels from Marmot Militia / WAR that recommend FP-10 used sparingly.

That's not to say some may not find improvement lubing pellets ... Dry wax types ( Finishline Krytec for instance ) don't attract and hold the lead dust in suspension like oils will.

Silicone's ( Dry ) can work ok, but it is well known tho lessor understood silicone is a POOR lubricator of metals.



FYI ... Scott
 
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I read that lead was an abrasive so ever since then I have attempted to lube pellets. Mind you I have never seen a bore that is worn out by lead abrasion, so I may just be wasting my money lubing. Although I wash my pellets so the pellet lube does assist to prevent oxidation of the clean pellets.

In my experience the Napier Pellet lube works well, although some guns prefer it more than others. Richardo 
 
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Humm... I do lube my hard lead boxed Crosman Premiers with Slick 50 One Lube from the aerosol can. With my .177 HW95 and .177 R9 there wasn't any change in velocity or accuracy, only less bore fouling and easier bore cleaning when needed, however the pellet lube you mention may be different.

50% increase in accuracy?? Well, these groups were shot with my break barrels sitting on a bucket resting the gun on cross sticks so I really doubt I'd get a "50% reduction"...........








 
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Not only " WILL improve accuracy with any pellet and on any type of airgun " but you can shop the entire line for "power"

https://www.napieruk.com/acatalog/Oils__cleaners_and_protection.html

This oil is believed to be of species originally located somewhere in the UK. It WILL also cure "Jimmy Trigger" as well as ALL other shooting ailments.

Seriously I've seen the product and was a bit suprissed by just how many hits showed up on search for -- napier -- might be standard issue with some kits.



Will, teehee .



John
 
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I've tested quite a few lubes over the years, trying to slow or eliminate leading. Can't recall any that increased accuracy, including Napier. I've been using Slick 50 1Lube mostly, as it doesn't deteriorate orings. Found FP10 to soften nitrile orings. FX Smoothtwist and LW poly's have been problem childs, though. I've been getting pretty bad leading but they DO NOT like lube, including any dry lubes I've tried. The Finish Line no longer puts Krytox in it, as well. Best luck I've had for these is Gunzilla.... a bore cleaner clp.

Anyway.... as I've mainly been focused on the LW polys and FX barrels over the last couple of years, Napier was not good. One of the worst, actually. Also tried Finish Line, 2 other chain lubes, Dryslide, 1 other dry lube, 1Lube, Daystate lube, FP10, fork oil, tranny fluid, and 2 other bore cleaner clp's. Gunzilla yielded quite a bit more shooting before deterioration without decreasing accuracy in my tests. 

Sooo... others may have different experience, but that's mine.

Bob 
 
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Most pellets come lubricated from the factory. It baffles me that people go to such extreme to handle delicate pellets with a wash and re-lube. Handling lead is bad enough as much as we do, having them washed means your likely handling the lead that much more. I would prefer to minimize my exposure to the lead, which the factory lube mildly protects you from during loading...



Literally baffles my mind what people will do to try to get more accuracy out of a rifle when more times than not the effect is placebo. I'd rather run a patch with your preferred lubricant through the rifle after every session than wash and lube a ton of pellets.



Inspecting pellets for damage or burrs and using a pellet gauge and weighing will do FAR more than any wash + re-lube...



Now if you happen to be making your own pellets, then delving into 'what lubricant is best' isn't a bad discussion...but this is all JMO



-Matt
 
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Hummmm....what about these pellets coated graphite parting compound?.........



Washing and re-lubing isn't difficult so I prefer to go ahead and wash/relube if there is "pellet swarf" in the tins.

Here are some pics showing the results after lubing a tin of Benjamin pellets and dumping out the lubed pellets. There was so much swarf in the lube container that I washed the pellets and rinsed them in my upstairs bathroom sink. The specs of "shiny lead" in the lube tray and bottom of the sink show how much "swarf" was in the tin of pellets (I'm sure that a lot more went down the drain).......








 
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The CPHPs from the tins anern't very consistent from my HW springers because the head sizes vary greatly. If I take the time to sort the pellets and shoot only the larger head sizes they are just as accurate as the die lot marked and dated boxed CPLs. Decades ago my brother tested the CPHP with his .177 R9 and found the same thing, but he also mentioned that out of the tin he bought only 30% fit the leade snugly which made for an expensive "useful pellet" with a lot of "sorting hassle".

Just for grinns I tried sizing the heads of the CPHPs I have left using my 4.52mm sizer and almost all the pellet heads simply dropped through the sizing ring. When using my 4.50mm sizer most pellet heads were "slightly sized" but a lot of pellet heads simply dropped through the 4.50mm sizing ring.

The unsorted CPHP 18 yard grouping wasn't especially good, but it was better than the Winchester dome group from my looser leade .177 R9........





Your mileage may vary and perhaps the CPHPs would be more accurate from my .177 HW95 which has a tighter leade than the r9, for example, here is a group shot using the same Winchester domes as the target above, however I was using the tighter leade HW95 instead of the R9..........



For contrast, here are a few 18 yard "bucket and sticks" groups from the HW95 using different pellets.......










 
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Napier has been around for about 25 years and is made in the UK. In the early 90s, before we had Brown Box Premiers (which were a "perfect " pellet - .002 tolerance max), it was customary to wash, dry, weigh, size and lube pellets for FT. The best sizers were (and are) those made by Terry Robb and Dave Welham that have a long, tapered hole and adjustable stop so that you can size the head to fit your bore while leaving the skirt larger to fill and seal the grooves. Napier is a good, thin, oil based lube that works well with processed pellets. A lot of Brits use it and a lot of Brits win championships. It won't decrease group size by 50%, but it won't hurt anything either.

FP-10, Slick 50 and other stuff works too. Lots of folks use their own "secret" lube. I like "Whiscombe Honey" which is 1/3 STP and 2/3 Hoppes Lubricating oil. Works fine in springers and pcps.
 
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