HW/Weihrauch Lube for the spring.

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Copper anti seize /beeman lazer lube spring and seal .

5th wheel grease hing pin bolt and shims

The white grease a dab on the detant locking chisel.

Sillycone grease a light film on the breech seal .

Smooth qnd quiet?? Mmmmm.. thats a matter of opinion..lol.
 
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Hateful McNasty said:
View attachment 577567

Copper anti seize /beeman lazer lube spring and seal .

5th wheel grease hing pin bolt and shims

The white grease a dab on the detant locking chisel.

Sillycone grease a light film on the breech seal .

Smooth qnd quiet?? Mmmmm.. thats a matter of opinion..lol.
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Well I am learning. I already have the Ace grease did not know they were nation wide. I buy my gas seals there.
I realize I could go gas piston but I heard sad stories where they failed.
I personally was thinking about some motorcycle chain lube spray silicone grease I used it on my bike chains , and it sticks like hell in fact pretty hard to get off.
 
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Line the piston with blister pack plastic. I cut a piece just thick enough to hold the spring a bit firmly in the piston. Tight enough that the spring will not fall or shake out if you hold the piston upside down. It’s a cheap tuning kit. Cannot believe the difference. Smooth cocking and no twang upon firing. There are videos out there of how to do this. Good luck.
 
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OldVet said:
Well I am learning. I already have the Ace grease did not know they were nation wide. I buy my gas seals there.
I realize I could go gas piston but I heard sad stories where they failed.
I personally was thinking about some motorcycle chain lube spray silicone grease I used it on my bike chains , and it sticks like hell in fact pretty hard to get off.
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Ive use it sll i guess .. like you you read and learn and see what you find best for you .

I say in other threads on this i plan to try my own " moly " paste using. Nonmetallic neverseize snd super fine powder moly and mix small batch as needed like a 70/30 .

For example sake

MicroLubrol 1/2 oz (0.5 oz, 14 grams) Molybdenum DISULFIDE Moly MoS2 Powder 1-2 Micron Best LUBE Grade: Power Tool Lubricants: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

MicroLubrol 1/2 oz (0.5 oz, 14 grams) Molybdenum DISULFIDE Moly MoS2 Powder 1-2 Micron Best LUBE Grade: Power Tool Lubricants: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com


So many to choose from



Then theres this stuff that looks interesting .

Amazon.com: Rectorseal 71431 1-Pound Moly-Rich Antiseize And Lubricant : Automotive

Amazon.com: Rectorseal 71431 1-Pound Moly-Rich Antiseize And Lubricant : Automotive
www.amazon.com

For me i just got tired of that " air gun". Pushed stuff at 25$ for .,05 oz ..lol

I used krytrox. As well .. that was making the guns some smooth dudes , but ... Seems i also had short spring life and seemed i had to go back and spruce it up after lots of shots . So it was good while it lasted but not going back to it .

Now not tried it yet , but i could yry that 5th wheel grease like spring tar is used if somthing was too noisy or harsh .. dont hurt my feelings none...lol
 
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JEFFPPC said:
When I replace a spring I use a modest amount of what Vortex ships with the kit. No complaints. But my go to grease for everything else in life is Mobil One Bearing Grease. Why? It works and is good to -65.Anyone personally try it on their airgun spring?
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If its in the kit why not use it .. i would no prob..

This guy uses copper anti seize as well in stuff he posts

https://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2010/01/nos-weihrauch-35-e-gets-overhaul-part-4.html?m=1

Back when you had no Internet or forums and lucky to have a napa parts store in town you used what you could get. And guns shot and lasted just as good as today with this " air gun speciality stuff at 25$ for .05 oz". 😜

Best policy is read around and pick something you my like to try. Use it and see. You ether stick with it or try somthing else .. everyone got there ways and things . Just matter of personal preference.
 
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JEFFPPC said:
When I replace a spring I use a modest amount of what Vortex ships with the kit. No complaints. But my go to grease for everything else in life is Mobil One Bearing Grease. Why? It works and is good to -65.Anyone personally try it on their airgun spring?
Click to expand...
Yeah I don't think I'll have to worry about -65 here in Tucson more like it's so frickin hot all the lube on my spring melted , and dripped out of rifle.Lol.
 
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I don't think the krytox is affected buy heat and cold untill its extreme. Not normal local temperature anyway . Its viscosity remains the same 0° or 129° . If you need reading on it. In a springer. Nced at gateway to airgun posts alot on using it . The cost benefit just was not there for me . You know im not a " upscale " type shooter anyways.. lol
 
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While you’re in there. First things first . Clean all parts thoroughly ( I use denatured alcohol) next, have a real good look at the main spring ends. You’ll want to polish them to remove any sharp edges on the flats, I use a dremel tool with stones then move onto a polishing bit with red jewelry paste. If you want to get fancy, get yourself some stainless steel washers , one in the piston and one on the guide end. I don’t remember the exact size needed. Now if you don’t want to buy a kit with springs and guides you can do as suggested earlier. Thin plastic to line the piston, don’t use aluminum it doesn’t last.you’ll want to have one end serated ( think zig zag pattern )to go under the spring flat. Also try not to overlap the plastic when rolled. You can do the same on the spring guide if it’s really loose. For lube , use whatever you think is best, just a light coat will do. Using heavy lube on the spring is a bandaid for poorly fitted guides ( IMO)

The main body where the cocking slot is, should be gone over also to remove any sharp edges on the inside edge. I use a diamond nail file ( don’t tell the wife if you take hers) I use electrical tape on either side of the slot to stop from making any scratches on the outside of the action.

You’ll want to search piston seal fitting if you’re getting a new seal.

Good luck , keep us posted.
 
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Question for y’all using the red n tacky. Bought a springer couple years back and it had been rebuilt using red n tacky as the lube. Phenomenal shot cycle. But. What should have been a 12 FPE gun was making 20+. Lube had leaked into the compression chamber. Talked to the tuner who had rebuilt and he was shocked. Only thing we could figure was that maybe it got hot in back of the shipper’s truck and maybe got shoved in barrel down. Cleaned and relubed with moly and it’s fine, but I really preferred the shot cycle with the red n tacky. Have any of y’all using it had issues in heat? We’re 90-100+ almost 6 months out of the year so I don’t want to rebuild with red n tacky if heat is an issue. Thanks.
 
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Put red and tacky in a grease gun and it will quickly drip everywhere uncontrolled. Poor choice.

Everywhere in our world that shoots pellets in springers, say to use Black Moly Grease....I bought a tube of this from Amazon several years ago, used in 20-105 degrees and never a drop outside of where it was put...springs, piston, etc. in both my beautiful RSW Diana 48 and HW97k springers....smooth, quiet actions, easy cock, powerful.....can't say enough positive things about this product. Look up the specs on Amazon!
  • Retains grease-like consistency during periods of severe mechanical action
  • High dropping point of +500°

Schaeffer Manufacturing Co. 02742-029S Moly EP Synthetic Plus Grease, NLGI #2, 14 oz.​

 
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cjtamu said:
Question for y’all using the red n tacky. Bought a springer couple years back and it had been rebuilt using red n tacky as the lube. Phenomenal shot cycle. But. What should have been a 12 FPE gun was making 20+. Lube had leaked into the compression chamber. Talked to the tuner who had rebuilt and he was shocked. Only thing we could figure was that maybe it got hot in back of the shipper’s truck and maybe got shoved in barrel down. Cleaned and relubed with moly and it’s fine, but I really preferred the shot cycle with the red n tacky. Have any of y’all using it had issues in heat? We’re 90-100+ almost 6 months out of the year so I don’t want to rebuild with red n tacky if heat is an issue. Thanks.
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I had my R10 rebuilt by Beemans back in the 90’s and they used their spring gel which is what I believe is red’n tacky. As you said, shot cycle was great….for a while. Then began dieseling. (I did shoot in fairly high heat summer months here in northern IL). I had no choice but to rebuild it. There was red grease all over the piston and the seal was stained red from the grease migrating all over the place. Fortunately I had just discovered ARH and put in one of their kits. With a light coat of their tar on the spring OD. Still going strong to this day and shoots easily as good as the red n’ tacky. I personally don’t use moly on the spring OD for springer rifles. Just the piston seal.
 
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