Got a Vortex kit with piston seal and Rowan brass straight trigger coming. Have Krytox, moly and the Vortex lube in the kit. What's the concense on best lube? Thanks, Don
Lube for HW50 kit?
- Thread starter doninva
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A very light coat of that Vortek grease on the spring has been my go to. The Vortek guides are very well fit so you do not need much spring grease at all.
Light moly on the front of the piston and even lighter on the side of the piston seal, making sure to wipe off any excess to the front of the seal. I usually go a little heavy on the back half of the piston with moly and let it get thrown forward by the piston when it slams to a stop to coat the compression tube walls some. That last part is more "in theory" than anything else but my guns cock smoothly and I dont get any combustion so I'm sticking with it for now.
Light moly on the front of the piston and even lighter on the side of the piston seal, making sure to wipe off any excess to the front of the seal. I usually go a little heavy on the back half of the piston with moly and let it get thrown forward by the piston when it slams to a stop to coat the compression tube walls some. That last part is more "in theory" than anything else but my guns cock smoothly and I dont get any combustion so I'm sticking with it for now.
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My Tony Leach Tx 22mm kit has Krytox. Works well but never used the Vortex lube or a moly. Just wondering if the Vortex lube is a better alternative. The Krytox, l use, dries to a dry lube. It's a commercial version of Krytox. Don
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You'll get 50 different opinions here. I’ve used moly and Krytox and haven't really noticed much of a difference outside of my wallet for Krytox prices.I know Krytox doesn't combust but neither does moly if it isn't over used and gets on the piston face.
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I agree that Krytox is expensive. A guy gave me 2 tubes, that fit a full size grease gun, so I'm good for about a hundred years
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100yrs may be an understatement haha. I have a little 1oz jar of moly thats pushing 3yrs already!I agree that Krytox is expensive. A guy gave me 2 tubes, that fit a full size grease gun, so I'm good for about a hundred years
But yeah, if you have Krytox I would go to town with it.
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In my 97 I use moly with an ARH kit. This has been reliable in both temperatures approaching 100F and below freezing. In another 97 I used Vortek lube with a PG4 12 fpe kit and had no problems.
My 98 used to have a Vortek PG4 at same fpe and I eventually had cocking shoe issues where it was scraping. After polishing the shoe and applying Vortek lube it did not clear up. I Decided to try an ARH UK kit with Krytox. Now the shoe glides. I hear the Krytox is better suited for a wider range of temperatures.
My 98 used to have a Vortek PG4 at same fpe and I eventually had cocking shoe issues where it was scraping. After polishing the shoe and applying Vortek lube it did not clear up. I Decided to try an ARH UK kit with Krytox. Now the shoe glides. I hear the Krytox is better suited for a wider range of temperatures.
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I use both the Carmel colored Vortek grease and Krytox. The Vortek stuff works great for me. Probably tuned a couple dozen guns with it. I generally save the Krytox for Magnums and guns with compromised compression tubes to prevent dieseling. Whatever you use, use very little of it. Less than you think you need. And make sure you mop out the compression tube really good before reinstalling the piston. You NEVER want any grease ahead of the piston seal. Including Krytox.
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Okay my guns have moly, krytox and the vortek grease. IMO it all works fine as long as it is applied properly.
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I used an ARH kit in my HW95L & after a through cleaning/polishing I used Krytox GPL-205 which solved my dieseling problem. Cocking is soundless & shot cycle is a sharp thud. 7K to 10K shots with no problems & power average is 17 FPE using FTT 14.66 gr 5.53 mm pellets.
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I'm still using my original bottles of Silicon Air Cylinder oil and Moly Spring Lube that I bought from Beeman's in 1978. My HW 35EB has a leather seal as does and R1my HW35E picked up a few years ago. Both guns were made in 1977. I keep them both Juiced up fairly well. My other Springers HW77 and R1 both get a drop or so every once in a while. They don't get shot as much as the 35's
Randy
Randy
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You may have think that little tube of krytox is a lot , but a little goes a long way. Using each the krytox is a tad better in the fact you dont have to be as careful with getting it on / infront of the seal or in the tube that with moly can cause ignition / dieseling problems.
Only one thing as well is throughing cleaning your parts going from moly to krytox or going back.. the 2 dont play well together ( in the tube and seal especially)..
Anyway either way or whatever one you use if you do a good proper job each will do there job well as intended..
Good luck
Only one thing as well is throughing cleaning your parts going from moly to krytox or going back.. the 2 dont play well together ( in the tube and seal especially)..
Anyway either way or whatever one you use if you do a good proper job each will do there job well as intended..
Good luck
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I am a Krytox convert. I've used it on all of my field target springers and have been really happy with its consistency in various temps, and how long it lasts. It's what is currently in my HW50 field target rig, and I've been super happy with it. I also use the GPL105 Oil in the trigger unit. The trick is really cleaning every last bit of moly (or other previous lubes) before using the Krytox.
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The moly removal part gives me some pause in making the switch to Krytox. How did you remove it from your guns?
R
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Well nced says he likes non chlorine brake cleaner. I used carb cleaner . Even after i thought i did a good job after a few 100 shots i did have to go back in and clean again.. you could really see the residue of the 2 not mixing on the piston seal skirt .. i think at the transfer port end of the tune was where i missed . That seam was where the old moly packed in it and a little hard to clean that area... As far as the piston and spring area no problem.
Anyway at gta nced has info scattered around on this to look at for extra ideas.
Anyway at gta nced has info scattered around on this to look at for extra ideas.
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Sorry, I just saw your question. I removed it from the air chambers using rags that were coated in Isopropyl alcohol wrapping them around a wooden dowel. It takes quite a few times getting all of it. To double check, I wrapped paper towels around the dowel and ran it around the interior of the tube. Any remaining grease seemed to shop up better on the paper towels. To get the moly out of the trigger units requires disassembly and cleaning the parts individually. Although i admit to being lazy and also cleaning trigger units with Clean Streak (it's pressurized), and following up with mineral spirits to get rid of any remaining solvent.
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Only bad part of Isopropyl alcohol is its water content. ( Normally its inactive ingredient). i think the poplar is nonclorinated brake cleaner .. i use spray epa carb cleaner.. to to each his own on what there best method is.. in the end somthing that could cause rusting. (Opinion)
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