LP desiccant filter

[Chickenthief]

Anyone seen these?

Low pressure desiccant filters for less than $20

I ordered one for my Altaros and i can see no reason why my YH compressor cant breathe through it to dry things up a little on the intake side.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32953936139.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.293f600eFnEfC2&algo_pvid=924d1025-3b60-47c7-b448-3ae7278e1470&algo_expid=924d1025-3b60-47c7-b448-3ae7278e1470-1&btsid=0ab6fb8315836018844605251e3cf6&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

[Humdinger]

This type filter should easily provide all the moisture removal a Shoebox F10 owner needs. It is installed between the first stage compressor output and the Shoebox air intake. Recharge the blue beads in a flat pan in an oven after half of them change from blue to pink, Get a filter like this for a Shoebox and a high pressure output side filter becomes unnecessary This filter's low price, easy access, and rechargeable desiccant make it a great value.

For years I've been posting that the Wilkerson X06-02-000 was the best choice in moisture filters for a Shoebox. This Wilkerson model has increased in price from $50 to $100 or more online. This Aliexpress filter has the same filtering capacity as the Wilkerson. If I was setting up a Shoebox F10 today I'd use this filter. Some of the Shoebox setups that have multiple input filters and output filters overly complicate a Shoebox. Multiple filters slow down a Shoebox from added attachments requiring compression. These unnecessary add ons increase the cost of the Shoebox setup to as much as a more sophisticated compressor. The Shoebox manufacturer does not recommend multipe filtration systems. It's like trying to make an economy car into a luxury car with aftermarket parts. 

 

[Guest]

I stick my desiccant bead on a paper plate in the microwave for 3 or 4 minutes they turn blue cool down and then i reuse them

 

[ImpactX]

That's only a intake filter. You will still need a output filter like the alpha which is $400 or the gold filter which is $70-80. No matter what intake filter you use, trust me there will always be moisture coming from the output cause heat and air being compressed will creates moisture. Some people dont know this and will think as long as you have dry air going into your compressor, dry air will come out. This is not true. Try putting 10 of these intake filters on your compressor, you will still see moisture coming out when you bleed your line.

 

[Eaglebeak]

That's only a intake filter. You will still need a output filter like the alpha which is $400 or the gold filter which is $70-80. No matter what intake filter you use, trust me there will always be moisture coming from the output cause heat and air being compressed will creates moisture. Some people dont know this and will think as long as you have dry air going into your compressor, dry air will come out. This is not true. Try putting 10 of these intake filters on your compressor, you will still see moisture coming out when you bleed your line.

Perhaps you could explain to us how adding heat and pressurising air with 0% humidity creates moisture. It sounds like a pretty neat magic trick to me. 

 

[TheIceman]

This probably won't work. Desiccant works well at reducing the relative humidity, regardless of the air pressure. However, when you compress the air after it goes through the desiccant, the relative humidity goes way up, even though the actual amount of water doesn't change. Heat and compression do not create moisture. This is a common misperception. The water is already there, it's just a vapor. What compression does is raise the relative humidity, and therefore the dew point, of the air. When the dew point of the compressed air is as high or higher than the ambient temperature, then some of that moisture is going to condense out of the air. This is the reason why most of us rely on condensation to remove the majority of the water from the air, then use a desiccant to dry the high pressure air before it goes into our tanks or rifles. Using the desiccant the way you are proposing will make the air drier than it was, but it won't prevent condensation in your tanks and rifles. I think this is an important subject to understand, so look for a post from me going into further detail.

James

 

[biohazardman]

Eaglebeak

Perhaps you could explain to us how adding heat and pressurising air with 0% humidity creates moisture. It sounds like a pretty neat magic trick to me. 

If you actually could get your air to 0% humidity you could not create any moisture by pressurizing it. But in all fairness it is more than difficult to pull moisture out of non-pressured room temperature air so although filtering it before pressurizing it will remove some moisture the bulk of it will remain. It is far easier to remove moisture from heated pressurized air so that is where it is most commonly removed.

 

[Humdinger]

I agree with Eaglebeak. Tom Kaye's website recommends a moisture removal filter between the first stage compressor and the Shoebox. I owned two Shoeboxes over a five year period living in a relatively humid area. I never once experienced any water on the output side of my Shoebox Max or F8 when using a Wilkerson desiccant bead moisture filter between my first stage compressor and the Shoebox. Nor did I ever experience any moisture in my air tanks or PCPs.

 

[Humdinger]

Eaglebeak

Perhaps you could explain to us how adding heat and pressurising air with 0% humidity creates moisture. It sounds like a pretty neat magic trick to me. 

If you actually could get your air to 0% humidity you could not create any moisture by pressurizing it. But in all fairness it is more than difficult to pull moisture out of non-pressured room temperature air so although filtering it before pressurizing it will remove some moisture the bulk of it will remain. It is far easier to remove moisture from heated pressurized air so that is where it is most commonly removed.

I would agree that adding a desiccant bead filter to the input side of any first stage air compressor at ambient air pressure is ineffective. Someone suggested adding one to the input side of a Yong Heng. That doesn't work. However, in a Shoebox setup if the filter is used between the output of the first stage compressor and the Shoebox, the air is compressed to 125 psi betore it enters the filter. This is why shop compressors have Petcock valves at the base of their tanks. Air compressed to 100 psi or more squeezes out most of the moisture that is water vapor before compression.

 

[Chickenthief]

I would agree that adding a desiccant bead filter to the input side of any first stage air compressor at ambient air pressure is ineffective. Someone suggested adding one to the input side of a Yong Heng. That doesn't work. However, in a Shoebox setup if the filter is used between the output of the first stage compressor and the Shoebox, the air is compressed to 125 psi betore it enters the filter. This is why shop compressors have Petcock valves at the base of their tanks. Air compressed to 100 psi or more squeezes out most of the moisture that is water vapor before compression.

Fiar enough i see where i brainfarted!

Pressure raises humidity to a point where it can be removed without chilling.

So i'll use the desiccant for my Altaros only.

 

[biohazardman]

Eaglebeak

Perhaps you could explain to us how adding heat and pressurising air with 0% humidity creates moisture. It sounds like a pretty neat magic trick to me. 

If you actually could get your air to 0% humidity you could not create any moisture by pressurizing it. But in all fairness it is more than difficult to pull moisture out of non-pressured room temperature air so although filtering it before pressurizing it will remove some moisture the bulk of it will remain. It is far easier to remove moisture from heated pressurized air so that is where it is most commonly removed.

I would agree that adding a desiccant bead filter to the input side of any first stage air compressor at ambient air pressure is ineffective. Someone suggested adding one to the input side of a Yong Heng. That doesn't work. However, in a Shoebox setup if the filter is used between the output of the first stage compressor and the Shoebox, the air is compressed to 125 psi betore it enters the filter. This is why shop compressors have Petcock valves at the base of their tanks. Air compressed to 100 psi or more squeezes out most of the moisture that is water vapor before compression.





I would agree that once the air has been compressed much more moisture can be removed. So in the shoebox set up it would be good to use some sort of moisture trap after the low compression. The Yong Heng has a moisture trap between the first and second stage compression as well.