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Looking for larger OD kill flash or honeycomb?

Mostly free in the morning to visit my gun club, but the problem is the orientation of my long ranges 100 meters ... I am facing to East-South East all the way to noon.
And the soil is "finally" started to warm, from 4-5 C overnight warms up to 20 ish Celsius , a lot of mirage to play with. Actually not much to play with, all pretty much a hit and miss guessing.
I have a Falcon X50 (10-50x65), cannot find anywhere around a Globe any direct fit thread kill flash for it. Emailed the distributor, they connected me with MFG, they don't make any of those accessories.
62mm x0.75 thread size is in the bell.
Anybody knows if possibly a Sightron or other Brand larger bell thread size can be a match? Or some custom mfg that makes honeycombs?
The other option for me is harder to reach, to change my schedules for afternoons, let say after 6pm. Possibly less wind, but the next problem ... the sun will directly burn my target rings shining from behind my back.
 
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Mostly free in the morning to visit my gun club, but the problem is the orientation of my long ranges 100 meters ... I am facing to East-South East all the way to noon.
And the soil is "finally" started to warm, from 4-5 C overnight warms up to 20 ish Celsius , a lot of mirage to play with. Actually not much to play with, all pretty much a hit and miss guessing.
I have a Falcon X50 (10-50x60), cannot find anywhere around a Globe any direct fit thread kill flash for it. Emailed the distributor, they connected me with MFG, they don't make any of those accessories.
62mm x0.75 thread size is in the bell.
Anybody knows if possibly a Sightron or other Brand larger bell thread size can be a match? Or some custom mfg that makes honeycombs?
The other option for me is harder to reach, to change my schedules for afternoons, let say after 6pm. Possibly less wind, but the next problem ... the sun will directly burn my target rings shining from behind my back.
You can wrap a piece of paper around the bell and tape it
 
Maybe MK Machining


Screenshot_20230515_203050_Chrome.jpg
 
I have a tube extension that screws to a scope bell front, have not used it much, but I know that helps with a front lens glare.
Both my 100 M ranges I have a roof above my head so no direct sunlight is hitting the scope.
My problem is a mirage playing in the morning as the temperature shifts, or the bright burning white paper in the afternoon as the sun is inline behind my back.
So cutting off some light to my scope shall not be some issue, theoretically until I try it.
 
I have a tube extension that screws to a scope bell front, have not used it much, but I know that helps with a front lens glare.
Both my 100 M ranges I have a roof above my head so no direct sunlight is hitting the scope.
My problem is a mirage playing in the morning as the temperature shifts, or the bright burning white paper in the afternoon as the sun is inline behind my back.
So cutting off some light to my scope shall not be some issue, theoretically until I try it.


For mirage try tape a piece cardboard to the front of scope with 30-40mm hole in the middle. Reducing the objective lens will not only cut the amount of light which helps with bright targets getting washed out with too much light it also increases the depth of field which helps a lot with mirage.
 
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For mirage try tape a piece cardboard to the front of scope with 30-40mm hole in the middle. Reducing the objective lens will not only cut the amount of light which helps with bright targets getting washed out with too much light it also increases the depth of field which helps a lot with mirage.
You could make this with a cheap flip cap by drilling a hole in a scope cover, starting small to experiment with clarity for optimal size.
 
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You could make this with a cheap flip cap by drilling a hole in a scope cover, starting small to experiment with clarity for optimal size.

Very true but carboard and masking tape is still much cheaper and faster to experiment with. Granted won’t look as good but just being my cheap a$$ self here. 🤣😂🤣


Depending on the scope but 56mm Japanese scopes have super white/clear glass tend to wash out easier due to amount of light comes in. In my experiments ~30% reduction in aperture seems to work well. Obviously different scopes under different light conditions also makes a difference so different sized objective reduction is probably needed. For clearer image from wash out only needs about 20-30% reduction. For mirage the smaller the better, I say try 50% reduction or start with 20mm aperture to significantly lengthen the depth of field. Obviously the picture will be darker but mirage usually happens in really bright condition anyways.
 
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