First thing is to get the rifle smoothed out or you will be fighting a never ending battle. By having to keep tightening, you are damaging the wood under the screw. Get a good tune to eliminate that hashness, add a tiny drop of blue loctite then remove the excess before snugging the screws. My own R1 aling with all my other springers do not have screw loosening issues becausevthey are not harsh firing !! My R1 is a .22 cal, shots 825/830 fps with 14.3 gn pellets, been that way for 15 yrs with over 5k shots, no loose screws and sub one inch groups at 50 yds. A quality tune makes all the difference !!!
 
I don't use any kind if thread locking compound on anything unless absolutely necessary. I'm not a spring gun guy. The only one I have is an HW97, with a 12 fpe Vortex kit, and I've never noticed loose screws. 20 in/lbs seems a bit tight, but maybe that's the spec.

Based on everything I've read on the 97K, 20inlbs on the 2x stocks screws, 40inlbs on the larger front trigger guard screw, and 20inlbs on the rear trigger guard screw is the proper spec. I've never had an issue but if I'm wrong, let me know please!
 
I too am dealing with a rifle on which a previous owner went overboard. Don't do it! Trust me, there will be parts destroyed. Some of the places Loctite was used just defy logic-it was just not necessary. In the future, when buying any used gun (which I try to avoid), I will be asking if the seller is the original owner, and if the gun has been disassembled/reassembled and Loctited. It makes disassembly for routine maintenance very difficult and expensive.
 
Unfortunately most folks go way overboard with loctite, giving it a bad name. Like anything else, very few people read the mfgrs instructions. Before retiring I worked in a very precision tool making field and as an airgun smith for almost 40 years, I have many years of using loctite experience under my belt. Yes I have had horror stories about people sending me their glued together guns for repair. All due to not following instructions !!! If used sparingly as instructed, there are no issues using this stuff, but unfortunatly only a very small percent of folks using this stuff use it correctly. So....bottom line is....if you cant follow proper directions...dont use it !!! However...if you are capable of following directions, it is great stuff !!!! Kinda like booze and drugs...when used with discretion they are great but when abused....you will pay the price !!!! In all my years of using this stuff, I have never had damaged threads, damaged screws or difficulty getting screws out. They also nake different types of loctite...using the correct formula is just as important as following directions !!
 
Just remember loctite releases with heat so when you're dealing with a metal screw in a metal part just put some heat on it as you apply a little pressure and you'll feel it release. A mini heat gun is cheap and good to have on hand. This type of stand is really handy. It's not easy to focus the heat with a full size heat gun.

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I totally agree with just heating what needs heated. I would also like to see more Vibra Tite and purple Loctite used, instead of blue or red especially on small screws. The problem is, sometimes there is Loctite where you don't expect it, and by the time you do, the damage is done. If a part keeps coming loose, address the issue, starting with a weaker formula and increasing IF necessary until the problem is resolved. I do encourage others not to try and solve problems that do not exist by gluing the whole gun together just because one part got a little loose.
 
Blue loctite for just about everything- Diana 350 magnum; gas key to bolt carrier on full auto M4’s, etc. (The M4’s were made by Colt and the gas keys were staked on; they repeatedly came loose under sustained full auto fire.) Blue loctite fixed it, and they have never rocked loose since. That was 2005; and I know we worked on 30 plus M4’s that way. I keep blue loctite in my range bag, in my desk drawer, in my cleaning kit, etc.