Lining things up on a assumption.

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Peashooter

Peashooter

Member
Apr 9, 2021
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As my new scope arrived today, and my hands are idle, i got the idea of putting the rings onto the scope in the assumption that they in turn mount right down to the rifle.

So what i first did was to align the 2 rings on my table to they was horizontal, then i put the scope in the rings loosely, and lined that up so it too was horizontal.

So if the rings clamp down on the rifle i assume i am good as far as my scope alignment.



Big old and small new.

IMG_20210817_155615.1629212717.jpg

 
I am going to say you will be close, but not right on. The problem which has occurred for me when I tried this is that the bottom of the scope mounts are not necessarily level. The base of the mounts may produce a different cant while sitting on the table versus when mounted. 

You may have figured out a way to get around this - if so great. My method has been using a 5" rail riser piece to mount the rings to first. Then level the scope to pic riser rail - that way I know when I transfer from one rail to another the level should be maintained. 

Note - Just wanted to add I use these https://arisakadefense.com/optic-leveler-combo/ to level the scope to the rail and it works very well.
 
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Always nice to see how much elevation rise is needed on your gun from the scope's optical zero. Don't know if the Mavs have that built in. Pic rail mounts are typically pushed forward against the lug and tightened down, then bed scope. And aforementioned leveler wedges do make life easier. 

edit: Surely you can build a jig for spinning in optical zero *wink*.

edit 2: Yay! Mavs have 20 MOA built in!

IMG_8996sm_jig.1629230017.jpg

 
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That is certainly guess work that does not fair so well with scope mounting. You really want to optically center the mechanics first. I use my bathroom mirror. After that you want to level the gun horizontally and use a plumb bob to check the vertical crosshair alignment. Once that is done you want to check your POI. If you have to adjust the elevation too much from mechanically centered turrets, you'll want to get some adjustable rings to not have to adjust the turrets too far off from mechanical zero. If you have cant your POI will suffer at the longer ranges and you will either be shooting left or right of your POA.
 
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While i am from the land of LEGO then i dont know anyone with any bricks.

There should be 20 MOA in the Maverick mount, but i am securing a set of adjustable rings when i go get the rifle, cuz the Hawke scope on my Cyclone, it was dialed so frightful much to have it zeroed at 50 M ( both new and old scope are 30 mm )

Not sure if those rings will go on the Cyclone, i will use them on the Maverick if that is the best, CUZ i assume i will shoot that a lot more, at least my .177 ammo stock are OMG more than my stock of .22 ammo for the cyclone.For sure i will want to stay as close as i can to the optical / mechanical zero with my zero at 50 M.

The rings i have put on are just the ones that came with the Vector optics scope, not sure if they are tall enough, i also have a plan to make the place where your cheek touch the rifle more comfortable than the raw "steel" or the Nylon part that is there, i am thinking a light mod and some leather or neoprene for comfort.

Actually i have a few ideas for the Maverick, but thats not uncommon for me seeing something that work, and think i can make that better, and it is rare i have managed to make things worse, not least permanently.

I am also contemplating scope cam ( DIY ) that i can tie onto my DIY NVG that have sat in a box since i made them, they are 2 channel so i can switch fast from the scope camera to the walk around and not fall on your ass in the dark goggle.
 
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O yeah. I just need the gun ( ordered in late March ) and then a crono ( prefer new inline but will take old model ) and i an ready to start tweaking.

Okay i might also need a new case even if the MAV come in one, but i fear it is the small one that barely hold a scope mounted gun, but i am sure i can rob a little old lady to pay for that. :) The impact case look nice, but not sure that is what i get ( the store ordered "special" Maveick versions in .177 it is not the otherwise only .177 Maverick the compact i am getting ) Mine is 600 mm - 480 CC carbon bottle + case
 
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I once tried mounting rings on a lapping bar and then tightened them down on a rifle. Once the scope was placed in the rings, it was evident something wasn't aligned as the scope was pointed slightly to the right.

The proper procedure is to align the rings to the receiver and adjust to compensate for imperfections in the rings and the receiver, and then place your scope. This will prevent your scope from being placed in a bind or, worse, bent.
 
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I once tried mounting rings on a lapping bar and then tightened them down on a rifle. Once the scope was placed in the rings, it was evident something wasn't aligned as the scope was pointed slightly to the right.

The proper procedure is to align the rings to the receiver and adjust to compensate for imperfections in the rings and the receiver, and then place your scope. This will prevent your scope from being placed in a bind or, worse, bent.
Click to expand...

...and then lap the rings.

IMG_9012smr.1629395900.jpg

 
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As a machine worker / cut die tool maker / engineer / all around good guy, and tinker and gear head i have done all the lapping i need to do. :)

Only sort of related thing i have never done is wet sanding as my painting educations are in the industrial field ( airless mainly ) but i actually have the bulk of my painting experience in powder coating.

You could maybe call the surface treatment i am also educated in for "lapping" of sorts, cuz sand blasting you have some roughness standards to comply to, in order for zinc spraying or paint to have something good to grab hold onto.

If only i had a high end airgun for each of all of my educations, or even better yet different jobs i have had :)
 
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I don't lap my rings unless the setup is permanent. They won't be true again, if removed.

Bambuino Those would be over-lapped according to the lapping instructions, which state to leave 1/8" unlapped.
Click to expand...

Permanent was the intention, since last November. Mine didn't come with instructions so just worked em to increase contact area strap-to-scope.
 
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