Tuning Life Expectancy of a TX200 Piston Seal?

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In my 30 plus years of tunning I never heard of a tuner that did not recomend chamber lube!! Rws, Beeman, AirArms and Weihrauch all recomend chamber lube. Try reading the owners manuals and recomended maintence materials. Feel free to use what ever method you want in your springers, I will stand by my reputation of more than 30 yrs. Having tuned over 400 springers with only one complaint, I guess I earned my reputation.

Rather than using the scientific method of using a file to check for hardness, I actually had at my disposal a rockwell hardness tester, that verified the cocking arms were hardened steel where the pins are only case hardened. But feel free to believe the file story if you need to.
 
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In my 30 plus years of tunning I never heard of a tuner that did not recomend chamber lube!! Rws, Beeman, AirArms and Weihrauch all recomend chamber lube. Try reading the owners manuals and recomended maintence materials. Feel free to use what ever method you want in your springers, I will stand by my reputation of more than 30 yrs. Having tuned over 400 springers with only one complaint, I guess I earned my reputation.

Rather than using the scientific method of using a file to check for hardness, I actually had at my disposal a rockwell hardness tester, that verified the cocking arms were hardened steel where the pins are only case hardened. But feel free to believe the file story if you need to.
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Saying one is hardened and one is case hardened still doesn't tell a THING about which one is actually harder on the wear surface. 

But a file does! 

So yeah, I believe the file story. That, and the fact that I have a worn out cocking arm and not any worn pins. 

So the question still stands: 

What is chamber lube? 




 
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Chamber lube accordng to the mfgrs is a silicone oil which is good for the seals.

Having thought about our hardness discussion, I got to thinking....if you are refering to Diana, Rws rifles then yes they are only tempered. My years as a tuner were primarily TX200, SR, and Beeman rifles. The TX arms are hardened and never saw one worn out! In fact I have a couple as spares and never had to use them...Most of my RWS rifles were new or almost new so never had a chance to see a worn cocking arm. Pins, yes, replaced a number of them. My own TX200 was over 15 years old and had well over 50K shots thru it with no sign of wear except blueing on cocking handle. My oldest son had an original SR with over 25K shots and no sign of any wear including the cocking arm and my youngest son had an HW77 with over 25K shots over 10 plus years with no wear to the cocking arm. He won the first ever Canadian National Championship with his HW77. My gues is you are refering to RWS cocking arms rather than the AA and Beeman cocking arms I was refering to.
 
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I am trying to install the Pg3 kit but I cannot compress the spring far enough to re-install the retaining screw. Vortek setup is 3 coils longer than the stock setup. Do I need to cut coils? If so how much?
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Are you installing it in a TX200? No you do not need to cut anything if you are. You're probably hanging up on the piston rod. It needs to fish through the hole in the guide which can get a little annoying. Just try to keep it all centered and give it some wiggles while compressing it and eventually they'll line up properly.

Are you using a spring compressor or just doing it by hand?
 
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Chamber lube accordng to the mfgrs is a silicone oil which is good for the seals.

Having thought about our hardness discussion, I got to thinking....if you are refering to Diana, Rws rifles then yes they are only tempered. My years as a tuner were primarily TX200, SR, and Beeman rifles. The TX arms are hardened and never saw one worn out! In fact I have a couple as spares and never had to use them...Most of my RWS rifles were new or almost new so never had a chance to see a worn cocking arm. Pins, yes, replaced a number of them. My own TX200 was over 15 years old and had well over 50K shots thru it with no sign of wear except blueing on cocking handle. My oldest son had an original SR with over 25K shots and no sign of any wear including the cocking arm and my youngest son had an HW77 with over 25K shots over 10 plus years with no wear to the cocking arm. He won the first ever Canadian National Championship with his HW77. My gues is you are refering to RWS cocking arms rather than the AA and Beeman cocking arms I was refering to.
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Silicone is an absolute useless lubricant for anything but rubber. 

You put silicone into the compression chamber, and it gets onto the steel walls, and ruins any kind of lubrication for the piston that was there in the form of grease. Doesn't matter how much or how little, that's where it ends up. It does nothing of benefit to a properly lubricated gun (if you're a "tuner" you lubed it correctly right?) but has the chance of causing other lubricants to fail to do their job. 

And no, I wasn't referring to RWS cocking arms, I was exceedingly clear on mentioning TX200 arms. 
 
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Yes I'm installing the kit in a TX200. I'm thinking of cutting the spring for 2 reasons. 1) I don't want undue stress on the cocking system. 2) I want the power around 800FPS.

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Do not cut anything until its installed and you put at least a tin through it. I'd recommend two tins. The seal and spring need to all settle in. Put the end cap/ trigger assembly on the floor and then press the gun down into it. Once the screw hole lines up, insert the screw and HAND TIGHTEN it all the way in. After that just give it a little (and I mean little) extra with a wrench to snug it in.
 
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I tried putting it on the floor and pressing it down. I have a block of wood with a hole drilled in it so the action will not slip. Even at that, I'm having a difficult time compressing the spring to the point where I can re-install the retaining screw in. I'm afraid the kit will put undue strain on the cocking mechanism.
 
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@gkshiroma

Just a thought, did you remove the steel piston weight from inside the piston? Often they get stuck in the piston and won't just drop out. It's about 3/8" thick and most kits don't account for it's extra thickness adding to the preload and expect it to be removed. 

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Thumper is right. I almost fell for that on my first attempt too!
 
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I got the gun back together. Didn't notice if there was a weight inside the piston. I flushed it out with Breakclean and tamped on the rod. If it was in there, it should have come out. I used 2 36" bar clamps to compress the spring. Gun has quite a bit of a jolt but I noticed that it smoothed out after a few test shots. Thanks all for your thoughts and advice much appreciated!
 
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I got the gun back together. Didn't notice if there was a weight inside the piston. I flushed it out with Breakclean and tamped on the rod. If it was in there, it should have come out. I used 2 36" bar clamps to compress the spring. Gun has quite a bit of a jolt but I noticed that it smoothed out after a few test shots.
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You should have taken out a piece that looks like this...

20211002_142227.1633198968.jpg


If not, you need to get back in there and remove it.
 
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