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Level's, Level's I don't need no stinkin Level's or so I thought

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  1. Dial the elevation turret and confirm the reticle continues to cover the laser dot (if not, return to step 4).


Won’t the elevation turret always track on a dot that is on the vertical reticle? The purpose of the elevation turret is to track along the vertical reticle.

What I do when using a laser boresighter to align the scope, I zero on the laser dot at the mid range (about 25yds to 35yds). Then I focus on a target at about 10yds (without adjusting the turret), and if scope is aligned, the dot should still lie on the vertical retical. If not, rotate the scope and try again.
 
You can use a decent laser boresighter as a collimator to align a scope. The basic concept is to project the bore's center line out as a laser dot you can see through the scope, and align the scope's reticle to it.
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Thanks, I understand the entire process and I agree completely these are the best methods.
Unfortunately the bore sight what I have is some mid level and adjustable to multiple calibres and the thread insert is plastic. I found out that when I am tightening it to the rifling, the plastic have some "give" and I am calling that a design error. I was looking into some online pictures for the "telescope collimator" and wondering if that may work better, but not see any scenarios how to attach to the scope.
 
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It works perfectly. That's the point.:cool:


the point is....

levels and gadgets and snake oil (oh my)
wont get your scope setup perfectly,
close yes, but not perfect.

what will set it up perfectly is....

the mirror method to align crosshairs with the bore,
and a plumb line to set your crosshairs to level so you can adjust your scope mounted level to....level.

if you want to use levels they will get you close.
but if you want it perfect use the above method.
 
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I've been hitting what I'm aiming at so I must be doing something right.
That’s good. As long as it’s producing satisfactory results for you, don’t change a thing. I don’t aim to convince you to do otherwise. However if the day comes that you’re seeing an inexplicable lateral POI shift at varying ranges despite having carefully installed the scope using two levels, hopefully you’ll think back to this conversation and know what to do next.
 
I used a wedge jig a different way the last scope I mounted and it seems to track great. I agree the wedge jig used the normal way can have less than stellar results. It's tricky to hold everything just so and it depends on the reference surface of the gun you are using being flat.

Anyway, I was using a one piece base. I just put the scope into the rings with them still a bit loose so I could rotate the scope and then I put the larger wedge on the mount laid flat and used a feeler gauge to take up the remaining space to the flat bottom of the scope. Still a little fiddly but it is easy to keep trying feeler gauges until you find one that will just barely fit entirely across the scope. I tightened the rings at that point and had a heck of a time getting the feeler gauge out. I probably should have backed off .001 on the feeler gauge. I will do this again. It depends on things being machined properly but I think there would normally be less error in the gun and scope mount machining (and scope) than there is in things like eyeballing a string line or your reflection in a mirror.

I have used levels but the tiny little levels that you can put on the picatinny rail are going to be very challenging to use to give you an absolutely horizontal surface. I would rather use a mirror or plumb bob than use a level. But whatever you use that gets your turrets adjusting POI correctly is success.
 
Just FYI, the typical approach using two levels (one on the scope, one on the gun) is subject to over a half dozen potential sources of error. It may be pretty quick and is usually better than eyeballing it, but it does not ensure proper scope alignment.

A couple of reliable methods involve looking at your reflection through the scope to align the reticle with the muzzle, or using a laser collimator. The former requires no special tools so that’s the one I usually recommend.

Suggested reading on the topic:


Three, one on the rail, then one on the barrel, then one on the turrets. I'm paranoid enough to have a permanent rail mount, cheap Amazon, AND a scope mounted level, Arken. Frankly I like the scope mounted level, it's easy to see but...can be hit or destroyed, mine is somewhat protected by the turrets on the left.

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