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Leupold scope not sighting in on FX Dreamtac compact

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Mackie

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Apr 19, 2019
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I just set up a new FX Dreamtac Compact 22 with a new Leupold Mark AR 4-12x40 scope using Burris XTR signature rings.

The XTR rings have inserts to adjust for MOA. The closest to neutral was a pair of ‘0’ rings in the front, and a +5 top -5 bottom in the rear. I assumed both were ‘0’ rings and didn’t check. I didn’t realize that only one pair of ‘0’ rings came with the set. It’s just by chance the ‘5’ insert set ended up in the rear with the +5 on top. All rings were torqued to 20 inch pounds with a wheeler fat wrench.

At 30 yards my initial shots were 2 feet low! Windage was close. I ran out of elevation trying to get the gun to zero. I’ve since removed the scope and I’m trying to figure out where the problem is. With the machined rail on the gun how can the scope alignment be this far out. Why would I have to make massive MOA adjustments with the inserts? Most seem to use standard rings with no issues.

Is this a scope issue? Barrel align issue? Rail level issue? 




 
Had similar issue on dream comp lite with a vortex scope, although not nearly to your extent. I had to shim the scope about 3milimeeters on the rear mount. Didn’t like this. Switched to a scope with a lot more turret range. And a another thing a heavy moderator will only worsen the affect. I can’t stick any thing heaverier than a ronin bec at 12yd the difference from a ronin to emperor was 1.5 inch drop of the point of impact.

my other thought would be measure from base of a barrel to end of barrel as the air tank for reference and see how much droop you have. 
then one could pop out barrel assembly and reinstall it makining sure the screws that hold it in place are even and that there is no down ward droop. 

Just my thoughts...


 
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I'm not sure how that barrel is attached to the block, but if there is an o-ring at the block like the Impact's then you may be getting barrel droop. If it is screwed into the block then go to the front of the barrel to possibly fix it.

Here's a link to a process you can do to "tighten up" the front of the barrel to ensure concentric alignment.

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/point-of-impact-shift-fix-for-fx-impact-and-crown-and-others/

After tightening up barrel concentricity and testing, then you can do a "barrel indexing" process so the barrel shoots the highest group.
 
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I just set up a new FX Dreamtac Compact 22 with a new Leupold Mark AR 4-12x40 scope using Burris XTR signature rings.

The XTR rings have inserts to adjust for MOA. The closest to neutral was a pair of ‘0’ rings in the front, and a +5 top -5 bottom in the rear. I assumed both were ‘0’ rings and didn’t check. I didn’t realize that only one pair of ‘0’ rings came with the set. It’s just by chance the ‘5’ insert set ended up in the rear with the +5 on top. All rings were torqued to 20 inch pounds with a wheeler fat wrench.

At 30 yards my initial shots were 2 feet low! Windage was close. I ran out of elevation trying to get the gun to zero. I’ve since removed the scope and I’m trying to figure out where the problem is. With the machined rail on the gun how can the scope alignment be this far out. Why would I have to make massive MOA adjustments with the inserts? Most seem to use standard rings with no issues.

Is this a scope issue? Barrel align issue? Rail level issue? 



Click to expand...

Put the +5 on the bottom rear and the -5 on the top rear. That will get you closer. If you have any higher number than 5 (ie 10 or 20) then you might try those if needed but you need + on bottom rear and - on top rear to correct your situation.
 
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Bandg. Is correct. You want the scope looking down. so you need to lift the back of the scope or drop the front. Probably more the 5+ is needed.
Those are great rings. Prevent ring marks and handy to sight in long range. The new one piece ring/mounts can be bought with 20 or 30 MOA built in 

I don’t like to use shims. 

I’d make certain the barrel is right and then go from there. These air guns with non threaded barrels creat issues. Not much can be done but work around that as best as you can.
 
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Thanks for the input. I went with the -10 on the bottom of the front ring (the matching +10 in the top of the front ring). I the put the two ‘0’ inserts in the rear. Burris seemed to recommend making most adjustment at the front mount. This lowered the front of the scope as mentioned above (not too noticeable to the naked eye) I was also able to space the mounts 1 rail position further and went from 3.25” between the mount center lines to 3.5”.

With the scope reticle zeroed out, I was now able to have enough adjustment to get on bullseye with room to spare.

i did notice my scope had 190 clicks of elevation and 230 clicks of windage total travel, stop to stop full range sweep, clearly not the same. Each click is incremented at 0.1 which I assume is MOA. This would mean there is 19 MOA elevation and 23 MOA of windage.

However the spec from a Leupold says both windage and elevation have a full range of 67 MOA each.



https://www.leupold.com/scopes/rifle-scopes/mark-ar-mod-1-4-12x40mm
 
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