It seems the airgunning community is largely composed of some uniquely knowledgeable an capable people.
Please share some pics of your airgun creations / DIY parts.
Please share some pics of your airgun creations / DIY parts.
Lets see some of your home made parts / upgrades
- Thread starter SniperX
- Start date
Shingle shot tray from scratch ...
Custom trigger blade from PEEK sheet
Custom cocking handle
Custom balanced valve parts
Manual resizing dies to change caliber such as .20 cal from a .22
Totally sick QB-79 conversion for WFTF Field target
Lol ..... and much much much more. obsessive compulsive tweeker without a doubt !!!
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First up is the sear from my Marauder pistol. I broke it by my careless assembly. I ordered a new one but could not wait a whole week with out shooting. So I silver soldered it back together. It’s still in the gun and that was 8 months ago
Next I machined new scope turret adjuster. Because... you know...... CenterPoint. Mostly did this so I could sell the scope.
Next I machined new scope turret adjuster. Because... you know...... CenterPoint. Mostly did this so I could sell the scope.
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Toilet paper ldc for the Leshiy
Love it
This stuff works good too. Comes in different diameters.
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My current project/creation is an HP .22 Armada. I'm still experimenting. I'm spending some solitary time in the shop on the lathe and mill, but mostly having fun with AutoCAD and my 3D printer. I've spent a lot of time at the chronograph in my garage. I have yet to take it to the range:
Electronic box for hammer/valve actuator with variable capacitance for experimenting. After some experimenting, I'll be switching it over to a single capacitor design:
Some 3D printed scope accessories:
Smaller electronic box for Armada. This is the first pass. It usually takes me about three design iteration and prints to get a part that I like and can use:
This one will mount above the left side of the grip for easy access:
Electronic box for hammer/valve actuator with variable capacitance for experimenting. After some experimenting, I'll be switching it over to a single capacitor design:
Some 3D printed scope accessories:
Smaller electronic box for Armada. This is the first pass. It usually takes me about three design iteration and prints to get a part that I like and can use:
This one will mount above the left side of the grip for easy access:
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Old Homegrown; where to start? I guess with what she was before I started-
A 1960s vintage Crosman Model 187 Co2 rifle that originally sold for less than thirty bucks... possessing potentials no-one but a vintage-Crosman FREAK like me could possibly imagine, much less realize! The end product, achieved with nothing but hand tools and supreme resolve has 3 National Champion and 3 State Champion field target titles to its credit-
I'd repeat the story here, but I already told it in my fourth airgun book (no longer available). However I will repeat that Old Homegrown averages .67" five-shot groups at 50 yards.
A 1960s vintage Crosman Model 187 Co2 rifle that originally sold for less than thirty bucks... possessing potentials no-one but a vintage-Crosman FREAK like me could possibly imagine, much less realize! The end product, achieved with nothing but hand tools and supreme resolve has 3 National Champion and 3 State Champion field target titles to its credit-
I'd repeat the story here, but I already told it in my fourth airgun book (no longer available). However I will repeat that Old Homegrown averages .67" five-shot groups at 50 yards.
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Here's one to make your Labradar utilized for airgun work look a little more "professional":
First the most importantchange upgrade. (you can skip any of the rest, but do at least this one!):
Spray paint the aluminum piece that holds the mic onto the side of the Labby flat black. This will make it look so that it was designed and incorporated with the Labradar and not put on as an aftertought. (which of course it was, but you don't have to make it look so terrible amateuristic by having the bare exposed die stamped aluminum) (To the Labradar company: you may incorporate this upgrade free of charge too, no copyright or intelectual property claims or whatever from me!
)
Next cut a hole for the mic jackplug and use thin double sided tape to tape the rubber flaps shut and flush with the orange side. Plug in the mic from the outside, so it looks nice and clean. (well wait with the tape ,you're going to cut another hole in the rubber in the next step)
Get yourself a powerbank and brand it "Labradar" by putting on some orange vinyl. (can be bought real cheap on eBay, while you're at it: get a short USB cable as well). Make an elongated hole in the rubber flap so you can plug the USB cable in from the outside as well. Yes you'll "lose" the water resistance, but as the rubber flaps don't stay shut by themselves anyway, you're not really making things worse. And besides: who in their right mind is going to keep shooting in the pouring rain anyway?
If you don't want to pay top dollar for the steel baseplate that Labradar offers you can get a cheap wooden cutting plank (the type you use in the kitchen to cut veggies and meat on). They can be had for a few dollars at Marshalls or a Dollarstore... Get one with sufficient thickness (both for weight and the ability to screw the attachment mount on) It has nice rounded sides already so you only have to redo 2 corners (as you want to saw it off so the board becomes square). Use the same flat black spray can as for the alu mic piece, and you can even add an orange vinyl stripe as finishing touch. There are many commercial camera mounting hardware type solutions to mount the Labrader onto the board, use anything you find handy, or print something from Thingiverse.
Finally print the above thingy from Thingiverse, it's a reticle sight tube to aim the Labradar straight onto your target, it works pretty awesome!
Done.
First the most important
Spray paint the aluminum piece that holds the mic onto the side of the Labby flat black. This will make it look so that it was designed and incorporated with the Labradar and not put on as an aftertought. (which of course it was, but you don't have to make it look so terrible amateuristic by having the bare exposed die stamped aluminum) (To the Labradar company: you may incorporate this upgrade free of charge too, no copyright or intelectual property claims or whatever from me!
)Next cut a hole for the mic jackplug and use thin double sided tape to tape the rubber flaps shut and flush with the orange side. Plug in the mic from the outside, so it looks nice and clean. (well wait with the tape ,you're going to cut another hole in the rubber in the next step)
Get yourself a powerbank and brand it "Labradar" by putting on some orange vinyl. (can be bought real cheap on eBay, while you're at it: get a short USB cable as well). Make an elongated hole in the rubber flap so you can plug the USB cable in from the outside as well. Yes you'll "lose" the water resistance, but as the rubber flaps don't stay shut by themselves anyway, you're not really making things worse. And besides: who in their right mind is going to keep shooting in the pouring rain anyway?
If you don't want to pay top dollar for the steel baseplate that Labradar offers you can get a cheap wooden cutting plank (the type you use in the kitchen to cut veggies and meat on). They can be had for a few dollars at Marshalls or a Dollarstore... Get one with sufficient thickness (both for weight and the ability to screw the attachment mount on) It has nice rounded sides already so you only have to redo 2 corners (as you want to saw it off so the board becomes square). Use the same flat black spray can as for the alu mic piece, and you can even add an orange vinyl stripe as finishing touch. There are many commercial camera mounting hardware type solutions to mount the Labrader onto the board, use anything you find handy, or print something from Thingiverse.
Finally print the above thingy from Thingiverse, it's a reticle sight tube to aim the Labradar straight onto your target, it works pretty awesome!
Done.
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Made my own internals for my Compact Cricket in .22. Spacer was easy...the valve stem was harder but works perfectly. Also I gained some velocity out of them.
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G
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Guest
AA S500 Extra-FAC in an Ultimate Sporter stock. Rown Engineering hamster mount. Ipe palm shelf. 1.2lb brass fill cover. Huma regulator, polished internals. I removed the shroud due to clipping.
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