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Leshiy 2 explodes

I am in contact with Dave and I am very glad he is OK. So, stop whip up a panic. We need to get the parts and examine them. What I really hate that is using the hand pumps. I never trusted them, I've seen too many guns inside after using the hand pump...
Could you elaborate your concerns for the hand pumps? I pump my guns, including the Leshiy 2 using the Air Venturi MK5. Thank you!
 
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Could you elaborate your concerns for the hand pumps? I pump my guns, including the Leshiy 2 using the Air Venturi MK5. Thank you!
Stirrup pumps, hand pumps and all like that gives you bad quality air, with the moisture in it. The moisture under the pressure is an aggressive substance. Mostly we use the allum reservoirs and this moisture can derstory the surface of the reservoir. I've checked many guns while servicing them and I easily can define if the user used the hand pump or normal dry air from the tank. In some cases the result was so bad, that it can cause the start of corrusion. So I avoid using those devices to fill my guns.
 
I dont own leshiy 2 but I find it shocking how ppl take this. There is zero reasonable cause anyone should use their leshiy 2 untill this is sorted what caused it.
Iv never hold one in my hands but judging from pictures failure point wasnt that threaded side but actually 90degree sharp angle on otherside ( you shouldnt never have sharp 90degree angle in corner of pressure tube) if that tube is made the way I think its made according to that photo its similiar design failure what caused aftermarket texan plenum go off few years ago.
In principle I agree with you. The forces in a sharp corner gets mutiplied, and it can lead to metal fatique. I do not know if a pressure drop in the plenum of a gun could be regarded dynamic or varying pressure, as when you shoot, it drops some, and when it fills it goes back again. Usually metal fatique requires dynamic forces which are changing. Reminds me a litle of the the old passenger plane (was it the comet?) which first had sharp corners on the windows, and the pressure cabin failed after x- ammount of take offs, and landings.
I am not saying it was the reason in this case, but I do agree from a design perspective, pressure tanks should no have sharp corners.
 
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I would never use high pressure air that did not both go through a water/oil separator followed by a proper molecular sieve. Water and oxygen at pressure may as well be pure acid, at 300 bar think how many more oxygen molecules are compressed in a small volume, pure oxygen at 1 bar may actually be less molecules of oxygen per given volume. If you your ambient relative humidity is 1%, and nobody here is compressing that dry of air, at 300 bar and 20 degrees C, 68 F that is over the dewpoint of the air, you will have water in tank. Depressurize tank, pull valve, and the tank will be dry giving you a false sense of security since the water has all gone back to vapor while tank depressurized.

From a paper on breathing air, best graphic I ever saw on how little water is 100% RH under pressure.

dewpoint at pressure.jpg
 
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So if I've been exclusively filling my L2 direct from my GX CS3 compressor all this time without even thinking that filters were a thing (this is my first PCP), how do I fix this now? I guess I naively thought the bleed screw on the compressor draining water after every fill was evidence of water being stopped from getting into the gun. What moisture-removing filter/fittings/etc do I need to get?
 
I use dry nitrogen in everything. It costs me around 400 per year with the tank rental and I had to get a regulator for 600. Still, considering that my compressors were lasting about one year, it’s about the same cost. On the plus side, it’s very easy to fill up and I see a little boost in shot speed because nitrogen is a a little bit lighter than air. Translates to about 30fps with my M3. And… absolutely no moisture!
 
So if I've been exclusively filling my L2 direct from my GX CS3 compressor all this time without even thinking that filters were a thing (this is my first PCP), how do I fix this now? I guess I naively thought the bleed screw on the compressor draining water after every fill was evidence of water being stopped from getting into the gun. What moisture-removing filter/fittings/etc do I need to get?
Here's my Florida garage set-up. Copper-colored coalescing water filter ($125 eBay) removes heavier oil and water molecules by directing air flow thru baffles and channels, cleaner/drier air escapes out top while heavier stuff gets vented at bottom. Small black cotton-filled filter came with compressor, gold M50 filter ($60 eBay) has three-media plastic insert, ($14) cotton-filled blue filter left-over from hand pumping. Almost ruined first PCP with moisture from handpump, only clean, dry air for my collection now. WM
IMG_20220226_110144.jpg
 
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I've only ever had one gun with corrosion in the tube, and that was a home built 2260 pcp build. When I cleaned up the inside of the tube after drilling to pin the valve, I just used a dowel rod with sandpaper on it to smooth everything. That caused the machined finish to wear and since I went past the o-ring seal area, it eventually rusted and corroded the valve o-ring seat.

I've been venting my YH every 10 seconds or so and have an inline filter. I also pull my guns apart pretty often, no signs of any other corrosion.

Not even when I hand pumped. I would think a hand pump would make less moisture since you can't force as much air as fast into the tank like a compressor.
 
All I want to know is what happened in the case of the ruptured reservoir. Can @EDgun and @daftlad please share what occurred and the findings of the investigation of the damaged materials?
We have organized the shipment of the parts to Russia (based on the well known reasons it will take time) and then will make the investigation.