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Tuning Learn how to read scopes so when zeroing your rifle.

With a ballistic app such as ChairGun (what I use) or Strelok is a popular one too, you can determine what your optimum zero should be. The app will also get you very close to determining holdovers past your zero with minimal leg work but I always encourage everyone to know holdovers by practice, not by reading an app.
But to get the full benefit of the app, you need to know a few things, most you will have handy but the biggest will be the actual speed of your pellet, not manufactures’ claim. For that you need access to a chrony. 
However, if this is not available, you can start with a zero of between 25 (.177 -.22) and 30 yards (.25-.30) for most any rifle and be really close to having as flat of a trajectory as you will need. 
Welcome to the airgun addiction!


 
The simple answer can get complicated, but it is actually easy once you get the hang of it. I'll probably miss a lot of little nuances, but here goes...

Because you have a FFP scope, you have hash marks on the reticle, and possibly numbers as well. Those hash marks and numbers correspond with the turret dial numbers and hash marks. Look at the scope manufacturer's diagram of the reticle to know exactly which hash marks correspond with which number and hash marks on the turret dials.

Then, once you have a good idea of how they correspond, you can shoot at the bullseye a few times to establish a group on the target. It does not matter where this group hits on or off the target. You then look through the scope and use the hash marks on the reticle to measure the group's distance up and down and left and right from the bullseye. At this point you simply turn the dials the correct number of hash marks, as they appear in the scope, to move the reticle to the required location.

A not so easy way to do the same thing is, after shooting a group, align the scope back on the bullseye and then turn the dials until the cross hairs and on top of the group. I find that this is harder than measuring and counting clicks because the rifle always seems to move when dialing.

I would zero that Impact at 40 yards. This will give you a very flat shooting gun from 20 yards out to 50 yards. After that you can hold over using the hash marks or dial the scope.
 
As a beginner u might find it easier to use holdover method.

zero your gun at a know range. Say 40 or 50 yards.

Now move to a father target with a known range. Let’s say 75y using the markings on the scope reticle to holder over the target till you see impact. Make note of holdover on notebook. 
now go how to 100y and do the same thing. 


with this method you don’t have to adjust the turrets all the time. 
 
I've been shooting a long time, and I've seen a lot of zeros come and go, and a lot of methods.

In the end, it's not really that complicated.

For Airguns, I pick zero distance. 25 yds works35 yds can also work.

The key is figuring out exactly what you want to do. pick a range and then shoot and zero at that range.



When you're done, shoot closer and father distances and see where the impact is. then decide if you want to hold over with the reticle you have in your scope, or if you what to dial up or done to hit at those other distances.

I like a scope that has .5mil sustentions (Tick marks). and then I have a reference point to shooting closer of farther then my zero range.

The magic comes from you shooting your gun...alot... and seeing exactly what your chosen weight projectile will do at any given range. Use a notebook and take notes.



The more you shoot, and observe and take note of, the easier it will be and the better you will become. like most things in life, there is no free lunch, you have to earn your stripes. good luck.
 
As a beginner u might find it easier to use holdover method.

zero your gun at a know range. Say 40 or 50 yards.

Now move to a father target with a known range. Let’s say 75y using the markings on the scope reticle to holder over the target till you see impact. Make note of holdover on notebook. 
now go how to 100y and do the same thing. 


with this method you don’t have to adjust the turrets all the time.

I still use hold over for all my shots, no clicking. It's faster for them pesky quick pests.
 
I've been threw this with people so many times I couldn't count.

All above is good advice and actually there are many ways to do this.

But first and foremost before anything else is the fundamentals 

Is you scope mounted properly- level, correct eye relief, etc

Shooting technique - and the most over looked ( for new people) is to make sure you guns not canted when shooting for data.

if these things are not correct no calculator will be useful, and DOPE data is just going to be confusing. 

Actually without DOPE data a calculator is pretty much useless. Don't get too tied up in collecting weather data either (not at first anyway) just understand what effects it is or could be having on your trajectory,

Diving into the trajectory world is really exciting and challenging experience.

Just start as Airgun-hobbyist mentioned above, record basic data and try to put this in memory - don't go any further with electronics or software till you have a complete understand what he is referring to. 

Accomplishing your goals without calculators, chronos, weather meters will teach you so much much much more about yourself and your equipment and the understanding of trajectory.

I see people come into the Long Range world all the time with all the instrumentation you could imagine, checking moon phase and star alinement (exaggerated LOL) but no real understanding of the fundamentals or their equipment and when situations arise they have no clue what's happening or how to correct it.

I know you're not taking about long range shooting but the principals are the same.

That being said - be careful about the info on UTube, some is just bull trying to sell equipment and other look like they know what they are doing to get view ratings.

Keep it simple.

As almost everyone mentions above - shoot shoot shoot and learn learn learn and enjoy the experience.