You bring up a good point. If I have JB paste I might as well try it out. I'll need to see I remember buying a brass screw years ago to try to do it on a SPA gun but don't think I ever did use it.Guess it wouldn't hurt to try.Dillon, clearing the burrs with a fine abrasive like J-B bore compound, it would be tedious, yes. Still less time than packing up the barrel and making arrangements to have someone else do it. Besides, what do you have to loose for having tried other than a half hour of your time? If the result is not satisfactory, you can still send it off.
BTW, not that I recommend it but here is a silly experiment to see what a 10-second crown job can be. Inspired by the atrocious crowns many people were getting on the cheap Crosman Icon PCP, I grabbed a barrel in the shop and hit it 3 seconds with a carbide burr followed by 7 seconds with a diamond ball.
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The result is vastly better than a lot of production barrels I’ve seen. Which is sad when you think about it.
Brother I want to thank you! What an amazing difference. It was much easier than I thought it was going to be. I have learned an important skill and have you to thank for it!That combo should do the trick. Just plan to refresh the abrasive often (I.e. just add more) since J-B breaks down quickly into smaller particles. If you have a stick of medium polishing compound like the kind you load on a benchtop polishing wheel, you can scrape some of it off with a knife and mix it into a slurry with the J-B and that may help speed things along.
The two things to keep in mind are
Best of luck!
- Don’t bear down...try to maintain just the lightest of contact and let the spinning motion and abrasive do the work. If you want to apply pressure early on, that’s okay but ease up as you near completion.
- Orbit the drill randomly. This approach helps ensure you get a uniform bevel. (If instead you try to hold the drill steady, the bevel will end up biased in some seemingly random direction).
Perhaps I missed it earlier Dillon but what rifle is that barrel from? Congrats on a great crown job and a significant improvement.
Did you try pushing a new pellet through it after the work?
Thanks! Yes I hope others will be inspired to do so also. Was always hesitant to do so but glad you nudged me to give it a try. Did take at least 15-20min on it spread over I think 10 different times of around 2min. But like said worth the time and effort and learned something new.Very nice! You're a natural.
Pretty cool to see the before and after, both the closeup of the crown and the results on target. With any luck, your effort will inspire someone else who has been on the fence.
Taipan Veteran Long .22. And thanks! I did. I pushed a few as I went along doing it and got it to the point where you can't really tell a difference between pushing up to the crown and fully through. I now reach the crown and just a tiny bit more effort pops through. Before I had to really push. I'm sure my fps on my tune bumped up too. I'll need to check that.Perhaps I missed it earlier Dillon but what rifle is that barrel from? Congrats on a great crown job and a significant improvement.
Did you try pushing a new pellet through it after the work?
@nervoustrig How do you pull the lead out? I’m not familiar with this process.I assume you mean the lap was not filling out well, is that correct? The barrel most definitely must be hot and I would think a simple propane torch will heat the barrel adequately, provided you keep at it long enough to heat the steel all the way through. The way I do it is set up a heat gun and let it run on high for upwards of 5 minutes. The barrel becomes far too hot to touch ~6 inches from where the heat is applied.
I melt and pour directly from a small solder pot, meaning there is no appreciable cooling occurring at the time of the pour. I assume pouring from a ladle would be about the same provided it was allowed to soak in the pot for a bit first.
Anyway this method seems adequate to pour laps 3" or 4" long even in small calibers:
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If you exxpress that advice in a public appearance, you should expect many requests for your autograph.One way to look at it is, lapping is always safe because you use feedback from the barrel itself to know where and how much. The essential thing is building the experience to recognize this feedback. If you are new to it, I can’t recommend strongly enough to practice on a barrel of low importance.
You’re pouring the molten lead onto a jag (or similar thing) at the end of a cleaning rod. After it has cooled, you apply abrasive to the cast lap and use the cleaning rod to work it back and forth. I included a few pictures of my setup in the following thread:@nervoustrig How do you pull the lead out? I’m not familiar with this process.