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Krale FX Crown trigger upgrade?

What's the lowest weight that a Boss trigger can be set to?

FX's definition of a "Match trigger" differs greatly from mine!

It is not adjustable for weight by turning screws, but you can experiment with different springs. 

It can be set really light, but in stock form, it is actually already very nice.

Adjustment can be a bit of a PITA to set correctly, but it is worth it.

You can change the trigger weight of the boss style trigger, in the top blade there are 4 screw holes and only two are used (to create the second stage trigger feeling). By moving screw around over the 4 holes you can change the weight and feeling because you change the leverage with those.

The Boss trigger and this Crown trigger upgrade are not 100% the same if I recall correctly but the difference is in the safety set screw. If this is not long enough then just order a longer one. I used the upgrade for 1,5 years and really enjoyed the upgrade! Also put the same triggers on other match shooters Crowns and all found it a real improvement.

Have a look over here to find some more info Instagram post. There is also some more info on my instagram page on how to make the original trigger better.

Do you mind measuring where the holes are on your Crown? Assuming it is a Euro model?

Mine:

1587510549_7527721465e9f7d159bb6d1.10347174.JPG

 
I received my Boss trigger kit today, and have been playing with it in my Royale. Although preliminary, I'll offer my observations so far. First, the trigger plate does indeed still have the 4 holes to manipulate the second stage by set screw placement.If you want a light trigger for match use only, you can get a very light pull with this trigger. However, the first stage becomes ineffective with a light spring, just kind of hanging there. If I were using it for BR shooting only, I'd adjust out the first stage and use it as a single stage trigger at about 3 ounces. But, the way this trigger is designed, single stage operation is not be safe for any use off the bench. Once you get into a release weight of 8 ounces or so, I see no benefit in this trigger over the standard Royale trigger. It just adds complexity for little or no benefit. Additionally, the Royale stock needs to be relieved a little to clear the Boss trigger housing. Not a big deal, but I probably will not do it, as the stock trigger works fine for my general uses. If I discover some set up revelations that make this trigger seem more desirable, I'll update this post. IMO, the FX trigger is a very off design, but, it works fine within a relatively narrow range of adjustment. But, that range is very adequate for field and general informal target and plinking uses. When you try to stretch that into a real match quality trigger, well........... there's an old saying about a silk purse and sow's ear! Since others rave about it, I don't discount the possibility that my incompetence is at work here.
 
After playing with this thing a bit, I'll offer my observations. First, I believe the extent of the owner's satisfaction is going to depend a lot on expectations, and experience with other triggers. My guess, many of the folks who offer rave reviews on this trigger may have limited experience with true, match grade triggers. This is an improvement over the standard Royale trigger, but only if you need a lighter release weight. As Ernest mentions in his adjustment video, the various set screws are fine tuning devices only, the release weight is not adjustable, you have to experiment with different springs. The standard spring gave me a let off of around 9 ounces, with a light, but usable first stage. Using the standard Royale first stage spring (the one easily removed from the trigger bar), gave a release of between 4 and 5 ounces, with a relatively useless first stage. But although useless in shooting technique, still necessary if you want to maintain a safety margin in moving around with the rifle. I found some spring stock in my old Brownell's supplies that gives a let off weight between the two, around 6 ounces, and is the one I will use. 

So, IMO (worth what you are paying), the standard Royale trigger is fine for general purpose field and plinking use, and the one I prefer if I'm going to be knocking around with the rifle in the woods.I loathe the spring-and-ball adjustment screw, but it works in a reliable manner and gives a good release. Mine adjusts down to around 9-10 ounces, which is fine for field use.And its simplicity makes it very reliable. If you want a light pull trigger, the Boss match trigger offers that capability, but like most quasi two-stage triggers, the first stage will not offer much usefulness. But, in fact, that is the case with real two stage triggers too when you get down in light pull territory, and I prefer single stage triggers for that use. I'll now mention what I consider the real potential problem with this trigger. Its reliable operation depends on the fine settings of a couple of small grub screws, not a design to which I prefer to trust my trigger operation. Once set where you want them, I think a small amount of light strength thread locking compound should probably be dropped on them for reliability. Although neither location is subject to violent movement, there is a small sharp movement with each cocking of the rifle, and I don't know how long the little screws will maintain their settings. So, it is an acceptable trigger for target shooting, but if you are expecting something to rival the action of a RAW or Steyr match trigger, this isn't it. 

One final note, the safety design is not what is shown in Ernest's video, which shows a flat head screw attached to the safety. If you try that setup, you will be frustrated to learn that even a flat head screw will not reach the trigger roll base to block it from firing, There is now a long grub screw included in the package, and that attaches to the rear of the trigger base and passes through a hole in the trigger rail (lever) to reach the grub screw in the standard Royale safety. Probably a better design, would have been helpful if they had instructions. 
 
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I finally received the correct Boss trigger. One gripe is that it doesn't come with its own spring, so I had to use the original Crown spring. Which may not be detrimental to the final trigger pull. More testing planned...

The original screw used in the bar/wedge is too short to cause the sear to release. I had to replace it with one that is 6mm long. The silver one in the picture.

The safety screw is also too short. I even replaced it with one that is 16mm long (pictured) and this was still unreliable. If you wanted a functioning safety, 17-18mm would probably be needed.

The pull is now lighter and a true two stage trigger. The sear is fully engaged when cocked. Pulling through the 1st stage moves the wedge and starts the disengagement of the sear. The 2nd stage fully releases the sear. There is a fine line between there being a 2nd stage stop or not. This is annoyingly adjusted with the silver screw, which requires removing the trigger bar each time.

So yes, the Boss trigger will fully function in a "US Crown" with minor modifications. Now completely ball bearing free!!!

1588703331_10288862485eb1b0635e26d9.17585852.jpg

 
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Hate to say it, but the more time I spend with this trigger, the less I like it. I cannot get a first and second stage combination that is acceptable to me. I'm going to give it one more attempt, and if I can't get it to my satisfaction, will sell to someone who's better than me at the installation. The standard Royale trigger is not match quality, but it ain't a match rifle. Until FX gets away from this "trigger wheel" design, it's not going to suit me. But my wife says I'm always wrong.
 
Hate to say it, but the more time I spend with this trigger, the less I like it. I cannot get a first and second stage combination that is acceptable to me. I'm going to give it one more attempt, and if I can't get it to my satisfaction, will sell to someone who's better than me at the installation. The standard Royale trigger is not match quality, but it ain't a match rifle. Until FX gets away from this "trigger wheel" design, it's not going to suit me. But my wife says I'm always wrong.

Ed, like I already told you several times over PM, this trigger can be a real PITA to adjust, but once adjusted as should, it comes close to the feel of a "real" match trigger (And I can know, because I also have a Steyr LG110). 

I had mine setup at around 80 grams, and it felt absolutely fabulous. This also means that yours can be setup like that as well by someone who knows about adjusting triggers. 

One adjustment will influence another, so it takes a lot of effort to get this one adjusted right. 

You really have to know what you are changing when you adjust one of the set screws. You can almost call it a balancing act to adjust this trigger. But again, once adjusted right, it is a perfectly usable, light 2 stage trigger. 

The difficult thing here is, I can't tell how much you should turn each set screw, you really have to feel and understand what you are adjusting, otherwise it will definitely not work out like you want. 



Kind regards, Gijs


 
Gijs, thank you once again for your input. You are correct in the balancing that needs to be done with the various grub screws, and I understand the function of each one, and how one affects the other. I have never used a light-pull two-stage trigger that I liked. The first stage has to either be so light as to be useless, or, so close to the let off pressure that it's easily pulled through. On match rifles, I usually try to set up the trigger for about a 6 oz let off, with a 50/50 split. I am going to work some more with different springs and see what I can do. 
 
I gota say that the Boss trigger is far and away the best investment I've made in improving my Crown. It's now right up there with my pre-trigger safety Air Arms S410!

To be truly great the little bit of lateral slop in the trigger bar would need to be removed and an over-travel stop added. It is quite a bit better than my post-trigger safety S500, with improved trigger parts added. It's not as good as my Air Arms Protarget, but that has a true Olympic class trigger. And an outsized place in my heart, so there's that.

Why oh why does FX hamstring the Crown with such a sub-par trigger? I guess to save a few bucks... The Boss trigger should be standard on all Crowns! It is such an amazing improvement.

I guess my only complaint is the weight is a good bit lighter when the knob is on Min than when it is on Max. And each click down from Max is a bit less weight than the previous setting. Someone used to the weight on Max might be surprised with an early letoff if they were to go all the way to Min for a shot. A well engineered trigger might mitigate that. But none of my airguns have such a widely varying amount of possibl hammer spring tension. So maybe they would all exhibit the same variations of weight if they were more adjustable like the Crown. My Crown is power tuned, so there is probably more hammer spring tension than some would experience...

elh, I would try to figure out why yours functions without the screw in place. I think if it where there and functioning properly the overall performance might be Improved.
 
elh, I would try to figure out why yours functions without the screw in place. I think if it where there and functioning properly the overall performance might be Improved.

It functions without that trigger rail grub screw, but it's not optimum without it. I expect it extends about .030", and obviously makes contact with the trigger wheel base which, in turn releases the sear. But it's a relatively fine tuning adjustment, and is similarly shown in Ernest's video. There must be some spacing difference between the Royale/Boss platform and the Crown. With everything set up right, I get a similar result as described by Weatherby and you. If I were using it as strictly a match trigger, I would leave it in the rifle. But, my use for the Royale is more general in nature, and I prefer a much more usable first stage, and greater let off weight than I have as yet been able to obtain with the match trigger. With the standard Royale trigger, after polishing the trigger wheel and using a slightly different first stage spring, I get about 5.5 ounces at the first stage stop, and a let off of around 8.5, so a final squeeze of 3 ounces to release the shot. For my purposes, that is about ideal. As you mentioned, these triggers have no over-travel stop, but I actually prefer that in an air rifle. All things considered, it is an improvement over the standard trigger for target use. It basically takes a very odd trigger design, adds some slightly more conventional geometric leverage adjustments, and makes it more usable for bench and target work. Not being a strong FX admirer, I guess it's hard for me to be totally objective about it. I don't much like it, but it works, so I guess if there is a problem, it's mine.
 
😄 I too am not much of an admirer of FX! The experience with my first Crown was so poor that I left its replacement hanging on the wall for an entire year, unfired. It annoyed me every time I looked at it. Then I decided I had spent so much on it that I should shoot it again. Then dumped another $500+ for a 600mm kit and slug liner... 🤔 Of which, the 600mm pellet liner in the kit was defective and replaced! 🤬

It now shows potential to be a decent 100yd gun, but the terrible trigger annoyed me greatly every time I pulled it. In desperation I searched for an alternative and discovered Krale advertising the Boss trigger as a replacement. I think the Boss trigger proves FX can make a decent trigger but just choose not too.

By the way, FX USA told me that the Boss trigger was incompatible with the "US" version of the Crown. They said I would have to drill additional holes in it to get it to work! If mine is an example of a "US Crown" then it is exactly the same as the Euro model. What were they thinking?

I've always preferred, I guess, lighter than average two stage triggers. My S410 is what I consider to be my general purpose/hunting gun. After yet another $100 the Crown can at least match that standard.

I need to watch Ernest's video again, but I think the spring may have slipped off the sear when he reassembled it. Which is why it was so different afterwards...?