Kral Puncher Breaker - New Owner

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rcorwin3

rcorwin3

Member
Sep 9, 2020
13
0
Virginia, United States
Hello good people,

I just recently purchased a Kral PB in .22 cal. used and there are a few things I want to do with it.

First I want to refinish the stock as I don't care for the way they have the model emblazoned on the foregrip. I have experience in that so that shouldn't be much of an issue. I do like the walnut especially when it ages. 

The PB already has the upgraded lever as well as the silent air system installed but it still is pretty loud so I think a moderator is in store. What do you all suggest? I'm looking into a Donny FL but I don't know if I should keep the shroud and go with an adapter or get rid of the shroud and go straight to the barrel. I know I can get the old style barrel band for it.

Also what do you all think about a regulator? Cons, pros?

Any other suggestions (keep it clean :)!) you might have?

Many thanks to all

rik
 
I run a Donny tatsu or sumo, bare Barrell shimmed with paper into the original barrel band. The shroud cause clipping with the Donny.

Reg not needed for my hunting gun. I do not shoot competition. Low power I use Hades, max power I use 28.5g Seneca. It is a damn good gun for me. 5-25*50 scope is a bit much, but you don't have to run at fill zoom. 
 
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Thank you for the reply Jim. That's the other issue I need to work on is the scope. I can't afford a high end scope and I absolutely have no use for these scopes that have 32 different colors of reticles, lasers attached, etc.. I need to find a scope that has a good para and focus adjustment and simple crosshairs. Mil dot is ok but I like the old KISS method. I probably won't be using it much past 50 yards.

Thank you

rik
 
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Dynamite (TNT) thank you for the response. I have a .25 caliber (not the Kral) that is unregulated and I get almost 48fpe from it because I use a 46gr slug. I know it leaves slower than a JSB but I don't do much past 50 yards. I picked up some PDG Destroyers and PDG Hollowpoints in .22 for the Kral mostly because of price point. Don't know the weights on them as PDG doesn't seem to mark their containers. I guess I'll have to dig out my scale.

Once again TNT thank you.

rik
 
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Odoyle,

Thank you for the response. After watching YT vids on that subject I kind of come to the same conclusion. I'm not competing just plinking and hunting.

What do you think about adding a longer barrel? I would like to see a higher FPS to get a better FPE. Any suggestions are most helpful.

Once again Thank you!

rik
Click to expand...

If you feel comfortable taking it apart, it's pretty easy to drill open the air path, by opening up the valve & barrel ports. That's usually just about all you have to do, but if you want you can also fit the longer Kral Knight barrel.

My .22 is regulated 36fpe but if I removed the regulator, it'll easily top 40fpe+.
 
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HeyU,

Thank you for responding. I haven't shot any groups yet as I don't have a scope yet but I just ordered one and should be here next Weds. After talking with several people about the Kral PB it seems like I don't have to do much to it OOB but tune the hammer spring.

I'm entertaining replacing the barrel with a longer Kral barrel so I might achieve a higher FPS/FPE rating. 

If you have any hints or suggestions all would be helpful.

Once again HeyU thank you.

rik
 
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HeyU,

Thank you for responding. I haven't shot any groups yet as I don't have a scope yet but I just ordered one and should be here next Weds. After talking with several people about the Kral PB it seems like I don't have to do much to it OOB but tune the hammer spring.

I'm entertaining replacing the barrel with a longer Kral barrel so I might achieve a higher FPS/FPE rating. 

If you have any hints or suggestions all would be helpful.

Once again HeyU thank you.

rik
Click to expand...

I can help guide you to do just about anything with that gun. 
 
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The longer barrel is only about 2.25 inches longer than stock, iirc. The hammer spring is easy to adjust and I saw groups go from .5" to 2+ inches in the space of one complete turn.l, then back down to .5 inches a turn and a half later. I drilled an access hole in the stock so i could tune without removing. 

The power output at high power is too much for the light pellets. They will push the speed of sound and will get unstable at medium ranges. In our world, accuracy far exceeds power. I am still amazed at how these modern airguns can be so consistent.

The first thing i would start tuning is the trigger. It is again easy, but the two adjustments have definite hard boundaries that you will not want to cross. The first stage is adjusted on the rod that connects the trigger blade to the sear rocker. Tighten the nylock nut to reduce the pre tension required to take out the slack. The second stage is adjusted by a small hex driver. The adjustment is directly under the connector rod. That will adjust the sear to hammer engagement. Turn it too far and the gun won't stay cocked. Back off from that point about 1/4 turn to give some safety margin. A surprise fire event is to be avoided at all costs. 
 
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