Known Issues FX Impact

Hey guys,
I'm considering buying a new or used FX impact 3. Any know issues I should know about? I've seen and heard that leaking is probably the biggest draw back and tuning can be challenging if your not experienced or have the right tuning tools. Any other issues and or can someone confirm if leaks are are prevalent with a lot of users?
 
My Bronze .25 Impact M3 has been rock solid from day 1. Yes any airgun can and usually will leak at some point, if you keep it long enough. If the repair is above one or not desired to be done by one, sent it to FX in NC USA. If you're a do-it-your-selfer, follow the FX Masterclass videos. How many other manufacturers have detailed videos like those or US based support/repair? If that's not enough, we have a bunch of fine airgun mechanics, many of whom frequent this site.
 
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Slow first shot. It seems that there is a very common problem, my M3 has it, with the fist shot after sitting for a while, even 10 min for me, to be very slow and therefore inaccurate. This is a problem if using the gun for hunting or pesting, because often the first shot is the only shot you get.
 
Slow first shot. It seems that there is a very common problem, my M3 has it, with the fist shot after sitting for a while, even 10 min for me, to be very slow and therefore inaccurate. This is a problem if using the gun for hunting or pesting, because often the first shot is the only shot you get.
I’m not trying to run this thread of track. The first shot is low because the valve face is made from plastic material. Example, peek , delrin, pa66. Plastic is described as a flowable material.
As the valve face is pressed into the valve seat from the high pressure air in the plenum. Ruffy 250lbs on the valve edge, it causes the plastic to form to the seat. Increasing the sealing area. This in turn requires more hammer energy to lift the valve off the valve seat because of the increased friction. Once the pressure has been removed from the face of the valve the plastic returns to it original shape. This is why the first shot is slow. Many things can influence how fast and how much the plastic flows and the amount of friction between the two, face and seat.
I’d recommend a thin layer of silicon grease on the valve face to help reduce friction. Some materials type might be more prone to this, age of the material may play a factor.
Just a consideration. Many other things can also play a huge role in this in why it’s slow on the first shot. Water in the air, dirt and grim, gun body alignment, bent valve rods, misaligned valve rod, misalignment or old orings on valve or valve rod.

Maybe a small amount of understanding why, might help with your decision of your new gun.
It might be best to start a new thread “ Why my first shot slow”
Mont
 
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Tuning tools include one Allen wrench for the AMP regs. All else is done with your fingers.
Leaks are a fact of life with all air guns. Cheap ones, mid priced ones and upper tier ones. They ALL depend on some sort of a soft seal and those will fail at some point.
Yes the first shot can and probably will be slow if it has sat idle for very long. People make a big deal of this. You have to fire one pellet or slug before you start. If One pellet or slug upsets your budgetary apple cart, you may have picked the wrong hobby..
 
Not actually the poppet valve causing the slower first shot it is a o ring in the power plenum that binds after sitting for a while you can tune most of it out by adding a tad more hammer or make a peek spacer with tighter tolerance and change the o-ring type as well others have used peek poppets and the first shot is slower even though peek is stronger than derlin but with the peek spacer and different type of o-ring the first shot isn't slower anymore there was a very large post on here on how to fix the problem
 
Tuning tools include one Allen wrench for the AMP regs. All else is done with your fingers.
Leaks are a fact of life with all air guns. Cheap ones, mid priced ones and upper tier ones. They ALL depend on some sort of a soft seal and those will fail at some point.
Yes the first shot can and probably will be slow if it has sat idle for very long. People make a big deal of this. You have to fire one pellet or slug before you start. If One pellet or slug upsets your budgetary apple cart, you may have picked the wrong hobby..
The problem isn’t wasting a pellet or air on a shot it is when you are shooting at something that that shot will scare away and you won’t get another.
 
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If a fairly new M3 and a good deal you should be good. I would confirm it is holding air as the Impacts have multiple potential leak points but overall pretty solid if taken care of. Tuning is easy peasy with the M3 set up.

I picked up a used Mk1 (2015ish) with an old ST barrel and she progessively started leaking from the reg, plenum to valve rod and bottle adaptor seals. I'd sort one out and another would pop up. The dated O rings had taken a set and hardened up a bit, it hadn't been used for awhile. Once all that was sorted out it has been leak free. Great learning experience taking it apart multiple times and sourcing all the o rings. FX USA was great with spare parts, etc and a ton of info on the interwebs.
 
My very first PCP was the FX Impact MK2, I heard stories this is not a gun for first time airgun buyers. But I was mechanical minded from young age and along my line I was doing my own motorcycles and cars as well and repair and rebuild anything in my house, and this way I was not scared of getting a LEGO gun.
I also read about stories that people much less mechanical minded got the FX Impact gun, and afraid to touch just anything on this gun but sending to "pros" for tuning or any kind of repair... well, for that I assume you either a deep pocket guy or just the FX Impact not for you.
You need to decide, if you wanna learn or your mind is capable of processing common mechanical tasks, I would recommend getting one.
 
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