The karma eq .ok who's got 1,shot 1 or knows some1 with 1 . Anyone else think karma hit a home run with this 1 .under a thousand bucks 1000 fps 30 cal? Anyone picking 1 up ?I'm saving rt now for mine.are u doing the same?
Wow that is a tonI've had the reg set to 206 bar. No indication the spring was having trouble.
Is this the same area where you had the valve seat issue? Does this look like it could be tighten up?Tested a lighter Hammer Spring tonight...
View attachment 581049
Left is the original, right is same dia (5/8" ID) and length (2.75") wire diameter is 0.055". The original is 0.080".
Unfortunately, the new one is also stainless steel, which adds another layer of softness.
I installed the new one and it certainly proved a point...velocity dropped out the bottom, not registering on my chrono with it at its lowest setting. Cranking about halfway up the range finally got me on the chrono @ 450fps (33g pellet). At the highest tension, it topped out at 550fps.
This was all performed with a reg setting of 1900psi, which, with the original spring (at min), ran 870fps with the same pellet.
So...back to hunting a spring that is somewhere in between. If I can match the size, maybe a wire dia ~0.07" would get it done...and not stainless.
Of course, I can install a second spring inside the new one...back to the McMaster-Carr website!
That's the plenum-to-valve body connection. There's an O-ring in there, so if it isn't leaking, there's no immediate issue.Is this the same area where you had the valve seat issue? Does this look like it could be tighten up?
I can fit my fingernail in the gap.
View attachment 581251
View attachment 581252
Ohhh okay cool. I didn’t think it was an issue but I wanted to make sure…That's the plenum-to-valve body connection. There's an O-ring in there, so if it isn't leaking, there's no immediate issue.
The other side of the holey part (the valve body) is where my gap was. That is how you coarse-adjust power...controls how far the poppet valve stem sticks out.
Very interesting, but that was the point that I think you were trying to make and that I refer the yes have a little bit too much spraying from the factory, but of course with use it’ll settle down a little bit and then we’ll have more adjustment. Maybe you should try again with a little bit lower pressure on the Reg. Maybe 1600 psi would do it.Tested a lighter Hammer Spring tonight...
View attachment 581049
Left is the original, right is same dia (5/8" ID) and length (2.75") wire diameter is 0.055". The original is 0.080".
Unfortunately, the new one is also stainless steel, which adds another layer of softness.
I installed the new one and it certainly proved a point...velocity dropped out the bottom, not registering on my chrono with it at its lowest setting. Cranking about halfway up the range finally got me on the chrono @ 450fps (33g pellet). At the highest tension, it topped out at 550fps.
This was all performed with a reg setting of 1900psi, which, with the original spring (at min), ran 870fps with the same pellet.
So...back to hunting a spring that is somewhere in between. If I can match the size, maybe a wire dia ~0.07" would get it done...and not stainless.
Of course, I can install a second spring inside the new one...back to the McMaster-Carr website!
That’s correct just think about it like the barber adjustment on an FXThat's the plenum-to-valve body connection. There's an O-ring in there, so if it isn't leaking, there's no immediate issue.
The other side of the holey part (the valve body) is where my gap was. That is how you coarse-adjust power...controls how far the poppet valve stem sticks out.
Well, that’s awesome. What are you using to lubricate your slugs.Ohhh okay cool. I didn’t think it was an issue but I wanted to make sure…
The reg is funny. I got the 45gr slugs in and basically the every I nudged the reg up to like 2500psi it would drop down little by little with each shot. Then I’d nudge it back up and it would drop down but not to the same level. Long story short it took awhile to settle but now it’s at 2450psi… shooting 45gr franco slugs at 960fps.
My point is to find a spring that is more optimal at all settings. I've tested the original from reg settings of 1100 - 3000...but that was before I figured out the valve body problem.Very interesting, but that was the point that I think you were trying to make and that I refer the yes have a little bit too much spraying from the factory, but of course with use it’ll settle down a little bit and then we’ll have more adjustment. Maybe you should try again with a little bit lower pressure on the Reg. Maybe 1600 psi would do it.
Nothing. They come lubed and I’ve never had to fool with them. When I put them in a tin I’ll put a little bit of Reg Butter on the foam padding inside… like the tip of a fingernails worth is all.Well, that’s awesome. What are you using to lubricate your slugs.
Reg butter is silicone lube. The difference is that he has a blend of various ones mixed together. I think the point is to have various viscosities to ensure performance over a range of temps.My reg was dry. It also had a bit of rust on the pressure bar. Pulled it, cleaned, polished the pressure bar, reassembled with silicone grease.
(I have a tin of "reg butter" but it looks exactly like the silicone, food-grade "superlube" grease I bought at Harbor Freight. I'm gonna give it a try)
That cured the downward creep for me.
They all have a recovery rate. I'm learning to take a breath or two between shots...
I degas, remove the bottle, remove the barrel shroud and aft shroud mount. The reg block has to be rotated ~30° (guessing) to allow the reg to clear the barrel. It may be easier to remove the barrel...it is that close to not clearing.Reg butter is silicone lube. The difference is that he has a blend of various ones mixed together. I think the point is to have various viscosities to ensure performance over a range of temps.
What do I have to do to get to reg? I’m guessing you have to take the bottle off to get to it?
And recovery rate is very normal. The faster the better over course. Mostly I don’t want to fight the reg to know what my tune is.
Ooof doesn’t sound terrible but I’m still not keen on it haha.I degas, remove the bottle, remove the barrel shroud and aft shroud mount. The reg block has to be rotated ~30° (guessing) to allow the reg to clear the barrel. It may be easier to remove the barrel...it is that close to not clearing.
You do have to remove the barrel and lift the picatinny rail (don't fully unscrew the screws or remove it) to get the reg block, plenum and valve body out. The picatinny rail holds the two action halves together...and in alignment. It can be fiddly to reinstall if taken totally off.![]()
Do I have to that the plenum and valve body out too? Or can I just bust the reg out?I degas, remove the bottle, remove the barrel shroud and aft shroud mount. The reg block has to be rotated ~30° (guessing) to allow the reg to clear the barrel. It may be easier to remove the barrel...it is that close to not clearing.
You do have to remove the barrel and lift the picatinny rail (don't fully unscrew the screws or remove it) to get the reg block, plenum and valve body out. The picatinny rail holds the two action halves together...and in alignment. It can be fiddly to reinstall if taken totally off.![]()
No, the reg can come out without affecting the plenum. However, the block that holds the reg is part of the plenum and valve body assembly. It has to be rotated to allow the reg to be pushed out...and it only rotates until it contacts the barrel. My reg barely clears.Do I have to that the plenum and valve body out too? Or can I just bust the reg out?