Huben K1 - Is there a way to repair or re-calibrate the tank gauge? [Solved]

[grouch-o]

On my 2nd hand Huben K1 (2021) the gauge on the tank is broken and not reactive to the tank pressure. It is stuck on MAX., but the rifle works like a charm otherwise. It's set up for pellets, holds air and is the most accurate air rifle i have.

I wonder, if anybody has had a similar issue and was able to fix it somehow? Of course, i have looked through this and other places, but could not find any clues.

Thank you.

 

[Gerry52]

No way to repair or recalibrate our cheap gauges. Get a new one to replace the old. Not familiar personally with Hubens but if they're like most others as far as the gauge (manometer) they can be found for cheap. Just make sure of the thread size for your gun. The $7 one I put on my FX Boss has worked for close to 8 years now. If you get one that reads within 100lbs of your compressor/pump gauge, be satisfied. Have you checked to see if debris might be clogging yours? MIGHT be as simple as that.

 

[Dstrac]

On my 2nd hand Huben K1 (2021) the gauge on the tank is broken and not reactive to the tank pressure. It is stuck on MAX., but the rifle works like a charm otherwise. It's set up for pellets, holds air and is the most accurate air rifle i have.

I wonder, if anybody has had a similar issue and was able to fix it somehow? Of course, i have looked through this and other places, but could not find any clues.

Thank you.

It needs to be replaced. You have to carefully let all the air out of the gun and install a new gauge. Dont overtighten it. Just tight enough so it doesn't leak air. Huben probably sells replacement gauges.

 

[grouch-o]

thanks for your replies.

it is not as cheap as suggested, because the part contains the whole fill port / airtank endcap section and costs about 100€ (i am in the EU zone).

 

[sb327]

thanks for your replies.

it is not as cheap as suggested, because the part contains the whole fill port / airtank endcap section and costs about 100€ (i am in the EU zone).

The k1 uses a different gauge than what is common. It is pushed into a groove and slid sideways to install. A small oring provides the seal. The gauge can be purchased separately from the end assembly. It is part 91 below.

Dave

 

[JayDee24ca]

From time to time I have had a spot of trouble with gauges that has been rectified simply by degassing the gun and removing the inspect the seal. Twice now I have found that during an overhaul and reassembly I have over-tightened the gauge resulting in the seal squishing flat and blocking the gauge port .In the first instance the gauge would not show pressure after being refilled, and in the second case the gauge showed fully charged, and would not go down as the tank was depleted. New seal, problem solved. YMMV

 

[grouch-o]

thank you

The k1 uses a different gauge than what is common. It is pushed into a groove and slid sideways to install. A small oring provides the seal. The gauge can be purchased separately from the end assembly. It is part 91 below.

DaveView attachment 593528

thank you, i have so far only seen the complete filling assembly being sold. good to find out that the part is also available on its own.

 

[grouch-o]

From time to time I have had a spot of trouble with gauges that has been rectified simply by degassing the gun and removing the inspect the seal. Twice now I have found that during an overhaul and reassembly I have over-tightened the gauge resulting in the seal squishing flat and blocking the gauge port .In the first instance the gauge would not show pressure after being refilled, and in the second case the gauge showed fully charged, and would not go down as the tank was depleted. New seal, problem solved. YMMV

thank you, that is something to learn from.
theoretical these problems are eliminated by the non-standard design of the huben gauges.

 

[john8]

Caution! When removing the gauge beware of small spring and detent balls. I've a few floating around the shop somewhere. Did you ask Kelly if you could purchase only the gauge?

 

[grouch-o]

The k1 uses a different gauge than what is common. It is pushed into a groove and slid sideways to install. A small oring provides the seal. The gauge can be purchased separately from the end assembly. It is part 91 below.

DaveView attachment 593528

ok, i got the whole fill port assembly off now, but i struggle to get the slide cap off.
do you (or anybody else) know how to get it off? preferably without loosing the springs and bearings inside, of course?

it looks like it would be just janked off and apparently that is what people have done by accident, when i was looking for help from YT.
but of course i do not want to damage anything.

 

[grouch-o]

Caution! When removing the gauge beware of small spring and detent balls. I've a few floating around the shop somewhere. Did you ask Kelly if you could purchase only the gauge?

thank you. i have found a dealer closer to me, who sells just the gauge. i am going to order from them anyway, so will safe on shipping. =)

how does one remove the gauge cover? just pull it with a sock or the like around it to catch the eventually escaping springs/balls?

 

[Pale_Rider]

thank you. i have found a dealer closer to me, who sells just the gauge. i am going to order from them anyway, so will safe on shipping. =)

how does one remove the gauge cover? just pull it with a sock or the like around it to catch the eventually escaping springs/balls?

I asked Kelly(Krazcool) the same question back when I had to service my K1. You guessed right, wrap something around it to catch the springs and ball bearings then just yank it off.

*it’s easier to pull it off if you put the fill plug back on the tube.

 

[grouch-o]

I asked Kelly(Krazcool) the same question back when I had to service my K1. You guessed right, wrap something around it to catch the springs and ball bearings then just yank it off.

*it’s easier to pull it off if you put the fill plug back on the tube.

thank you for sharing. much appreciated.

(got it off. waiting for a spare part.)

 

[Gerry52]

thanks for your replies.

it is not as cheap as suggested, because the part contains the whole fill port / airtank endcap section and costs about 100€ (i am in the EU zone).

If you're referring to my response, I never said yours would be cheap as I'm not familiar with that equipment. I said IF it's like MOST airguns. Guess it's not. Hope you have good luck repairing.