Internal Details of a Falke Modell 70

Had some freetime this afternoon and decided to see what I can see on my Falke Model 70. I must say internally it is vastly different than any Diana model 27. Appearance wise it does look more like a pre-war Haneal Model III, not sure about internal but I am guessing they would be very similar as well.

This is a go as slow as possible, document, learn and share as there is no detailed information related to disassembly of this model. Disassembly of the air rifle is very easy, a very thoughtful concept for the time.

Here is what I have found/learned so far:
1. No pre load, the main spring is very short only 7.5 inches long. The measurement from the spring guide base to the top of piston is only 8.38 inches in its resting state. The actual length of the spring was a real surprise, my only comparison is it seems as though someone cut an FWB 124 spring in half.

2. The leather piston seal is still in place and appears useable so I soak it in neatsfoot oil and will leave as is for now.
Not sure if the blind pin holds the piston seal screw in place, another reason to leave piston seal alone. If I ever feel the need to replace the seal it is a 1.1 leather seal and 28mm in a synthetic conversion. I am also hoping one of our neighbors where this model is more prevelant would be able to provide some guidance on the piston seal screw removal. 

3. The breech seal is leather and fairly flat, may need to find a replacement or make a new one with my hollow punch set.

4. Will need to find shims for the barrel pivot as there is just an ever so slight movement. I think the shim is a better option verses grinding another small notch in the pivot screw head, which would work because the wiggle goes away with an additional 1/8 turn of the screw.

5. The barrel lock up mechanism is very simplistic, but a feature I really like.

6. The trigger is in a block assembly that unscrews from the compression tube. This was a surprise and until today the only air rifle I ever unscrewed the trigger housing on was my Beeman R1 or Weihrauch HW55 MM. I will not be playing with the trigger as I like how it is set.

7. The spring guide is part of the trigger block assembly. Another surprise, I had only seen a similar design used in FWB 124.

8. I have inspected the stock and have decided just clean it up for now. However, it does appear to have some of the worst clear coat finish I have ever seen. The only finish on an air rifle stock that may be worse, would be one of the various Chinese B3’s.

9. The blueing is in fairly good condition so I will be leaving that as is. In addition, there is really no significant rust worth mentioning or worrying about and what is there should been resolved by light use of 0000 steel wool.

That about covers it for now.



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GoldenStateAIRGUNer,

I may try an o-ring once I take measurements, would be quicker than making a leather seal. As for the reddish orange material beneath the leather seal, it is some sort of plastic spacer that has some areas that flaked off over time, but is still intact, no corrosion.

one thing I forgot to mention is the spring was dry and it looks original to the gun.




 
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So your concern with the highlighted pin is that it sort of serves as a set screw ? Seems to me if that was it's function it would be a machine screw thread. To drive a drift pin in like that would require it to be drilled out. That doesn't seem practical in order to replace a piston seal. It doesn't appear that pin has a cross slot for a screwdriver. Looking inside the pistons cocking slot towards the piston seal what do you see ?
 
I think that's a spot weld. Note the piston is rolled from a piece of flat stock, and there needs to be a weld point at the hole in the little "cup" the seal sits on, to access the weld? Here's a piston from a Falke 40, less sophisticated a gun without a replaceable seal as your 70. You have the flathead slotted machine screw, I'm stuck with just a peened over stud!
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You may need to use a screw extractor to get that out. Carefully drill (in a drill press preferably) it until a small extractor will fit. Heat it just hot enough to that a penetrating oil will bubble when applied to the set screw. You will see the fluid draw into the screw threads. Repeat this a couple times. Now try your screw extractor tool and see if it backs out. If not you'll have to drill it completely out. If you damage the male threads in the piston you will probably have to drill and tap it to slightly larger screw. Could that drive for that screw possibly have been a hex (Allen) head ? Heating the piston means you'll melt that plastic spacer washer. Just use a small butane or MAP gas torch and DON'T get it red hot. Just hot enough where the penetrating oil bubbles and draws into the threads. I've used this technique to remove pump impellers from shafts of electric motors. On both the impeller set screw and getting the impeller to release from the motor shaft because of corrosion. 
 
GoldenStateAIRGUNer, 

Thank you for the removal tips, I think this will be the method to move forward with extraction. I have looked at this pin with a magnifying glass, there is no evidence of a screw head slot or hex head design, for now I will start cleaning the other parts and evaluate how to proceed on the seal issue.looking inside the piston the only thing that can be seen in this the end of the latch rod shaft, I will take some more pictures soon.



 
A set screw or blind screw or grub screw used in Germany in the 50's would be slotted: hex and Phillips fasteners come in later years. It would be very unusual to use a set screw to lock the seal screw: the set screw would obviously damage to seal screw threads. Also, a "pin" that's not threaded (press fit) would not be easily removable (extractor, skilled machine shop work!), which defeats the purpose of the slotted flat seal screw, namely to easy replace the leather seal on a desirable Falke model considered worthy of occasional piston seal replacement?
 
A set screw or blind screw or grub screw used in Germany in the 50's would be slotted: hex and Phillips fasteners come in later years. It would be very unusual to use a set screw to lock the seal screw: the set screw would obviously damage to seal screw threads. Also, a "pin" that's not threaded (press fit) would not be easily removable (extractor, skilled machine shop work!), which defeats the purpose of the slotted flat seal screw, namely to easy replace the leather seal on a desirable Falke model considered worthy of occasional piston seal replacement?

Agree! If it's a pressed pin that really means the piston seal wasn't designed to be replaced. At the time of marketing the rifle you probably had to buy the complete piston assembly. The Phillips was invented in the 1930's. Not sure on hex drive screws but I think they were also in the same time frame.

https://www.thoughtco.com/history-of-screws-and-screwdrivers-1992422




 
I bet you it only holds the head on like a BSA piston head. I would drill and tap it then use a screw and cup shaped bushing that fits over the pin and draw it out. I'd make that bushing in 10 minutes on my lathe. Have the pin out in 25.

BSA guys (tuners) often left out the buffer washer and increased the stroke a few mm. You don't need it.

Option: Try taking the seal screw out? Then just replace the seal. Fill the buffer area with JB weld. You don't need the buffer washer. That's why only BSA and apparently Falke tinkered with that idea.

BSA used a buffer washer in the Mk1 Airsporters in 1948.. They finally dropped that bad idea with the 1990's Supersports.
 
I bet you it only holds the head on like a BSA piston head. I would drill and tap it then use a screw and cup shaped bushing that fits over the pin and draw it out. I'd make that bushing in 10 minutes on my lathe. Have the pin out in 25.

It does look like that piston head piece is separate from the piston body. 

The only issue I see with leaving the buffer washer off is if the piston seal screw bottoms out before the leather seal is held securely in place. Even then the answer would be to just shorten the screw a few millimeters.
 
Interesting ideas, and a worthy of consideration as I progress with this project. One way or another if I deem there to be a true need to replace the seal one method will be used for sure - tools in a machine shop. I do know it comes off as Vortek, Chambers and John Knibbs list a seal replacement for this model only question after removal would be synthetic from Vortek or Leather from the other two vendors across the pond.