I ordered my DF II 22 cal on 03/13/23 (Refurb)
I have never bought a Refurb before, hated to use the rat hole funds
as I was saving it for something..........LOL
At least the worst it can be, is a parts rifle for a new one............LOL
And the Dan's will be happy, having a Big brother around, even if he is an odd caliber........
Here is the condensed version from GTA
Every screw was loose with the exception of the 2 buttstock screws,
the wooden handle had all screws loose, and one screws was found inside the shipping box, along with the muzzle nuts that holds the front sight on and also the bbl holding screws.
I checked and tighten all screws, then shot the first chrono test.
The first chrono test of my new Dragon Fly II 22 cal (Refub),
and got these results, with my Chinese chrono:
1st Chrono test (OEM stock)
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 546 fps for Crosman HP, 14gn ammo.
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 640 fps for the same above ammo.
Then I dropped a brand new can of 500 pellets in the dirt...................
Now I am playing pick up pellets..............
But, I have a base line to work with...lol
Every time when the bbl was pointed up or down, from inside pressure tube,
I could hear a metallic chink and it was driving me crazy, WHY, WHAT is it,
some more stuff loose etc etc?
Seeing that I was house bound due to bad weather outside, out come the tools, clean Old bed sheet spread on the work table, a hot cup of Jo at the side and I started tearing apart the pump end of the DF II.
The 2 tiny Allen head screws are a bear to get loose, M3/0.50 pitch bevel headed screws, are butter soft, (have to replace them now), get them before the tear down, unscrewed the muzzle nut and the front sight slid off the bbl.
Removed the Jesus "C" clip, then removed the pivot rod, then removed the center double headed Allen screw pin, in the pressure tube, Careful, there is 1 flat spring washer on each end, pulled out the pin.
This allowed the center pump rod to move toward the muzzle end and then drift out the pin that connects to the center pump rod, (top hole). Pushed the center pump rod out of the pressure tube and out fell a pin (same size as the center pump rod pin), MY rattle stopped.
It appears that this pin was dropped inside the pump rod slot in the pressure tube when being assembled, and just left there..........
The center pump rod is a solid alum rod with a slot cut lengthwise down thru the center, approximately 7" long, and is threaded and lock nutted into the end, for the alum pump head, which has "O" ring set into the pump head, for sealing etc..
I marked and measured the depth of this pump rod, which was 6-5/8" long,
before I tore into it. I measured the depth to the face of the valve
and had a measurement of over 7-1/4", there is over 7/8" inch of compression tube not being used. (Loss of fps/fpe)?
I hate wasting the 1" of compression space, the pump head is not using.
The front of the pump rod/pressure head just clears the air hole in the pressure tube when pumping, as can be seen when opening the pump arm when the rifle is upside down.
The limiting factor at this time is the amount of distance between the end of the pump face and the air intake hole of the pressure tube.
On my rifle, I only have approximately .130" of space left before the pump head blocks the air intake hole.
I have already lengthened this distance by 1 full turn, (still have to do a chrono test), but I don't know the thread count to figure out this amount of movement.
I will take it out to the maximum distance and do another chrono test to see the results.
The only other option is to redesign the valve, make it longer to use up the excess empty space of the pressure tube to the pump head at it's extended length etc.
I'll do some careful measurements of the valve dimensions, when I get to the valve out.
So being curious, I undid the lock nut, use a HD nylon webbing strap around the pump head and lengthened it 1 full turn and inserted it into the pressure tube, to the mark I made before I dismantled it, no contact was made with the valve head, I pushed the pump rod in (deeper) as far down the pressure tube and had over 7/8" of extra room before contact with the valve.
At this time it appears that there is only the 1-2 screws holding the valve in place, which are the ones in the steel block right in front of the trigger.
I won't know for sure until I get to that area etc.
I tighten everything back down and reassembled it, but not before fixing the sloppy wooden pump handle to the pump handle steel bar. I cut some flat strips of harden plastic into .500" wide x 5-1/2" long and .025" thick. I checked on which side had the largest gap and stuffed a strip on each side,
checked and then added a .010" thick strip to the side that still had a gap.
I used a drill bit that fit into the steel handle bar hole and reamed the plastic holes to fit.
Inside the wooden pump arm, center leg of the pump arm, there is a milled quarter moon cam, on the steel pump arm, the end of that cam arm has a roller that operates inside this cam, to assist with the pumping.
Mine looked pretty rough, not smooth cut in the machining.
After doing a double check on the length measurements, I'll lengthen to the safe length on the pump head, and I'll get all the measurements of the valve, spring etc. And I'll do another chrono test for the results.
I know for sure that the Dan's air passage holes are .146" for the bbl and .184" for the valve, with a valve length of 2.875" and inside dia of .500", air inlet hole of the valve head is .085".
Tightened up the pump arm screws and "What a difference", nice and tight
and the wooden pump arm is centered down the pressure tube and matches the butt stock width etc.
Updated info: Here is a new diagram of the Dragon Fly II rifle,
https://www.pyramydair.com/model-schematic/m/seneca-dragonfly-mk2-multi-pump-air-rifle/5170
"WATCH THE PRICES" OUCH............
Here is some more information on the DF II
Bbl TP hole is .134" Dia,
Action TP Hole is .134" Dia,
Brass TP has a hole Dia of .136" x .295" tall x .356" dia,
w/a step on each end that fits into a rubber "O" ring on the action and the valve, for sealing both areas.
Hammer spring is 18/19#'s at max compression, (coil bound), 3.150" long,
.390" dia O/S dim, x .300" I/S dim, with 15 coils.
Hammer weight is 876 grains x .760" dia, with a spring tunnel hole of .395" diameter.
Main valve is 2.520" long x .765" dia, and has a TP hole of .136" with an inside spring with a plastic pointed cone and a 2 piece shaft, metal shaft fits inside the poppet seal.
I almost forgot this bit of valve information,
To remove the valve, it has to come out the front of the pressure tube,
there is 2 crimp marks the valve seats against at the rear end of the valve,
that block the valve from coming out the rear end of the pressure tube..
I'll open up the TP and all other holes to .140 as a standard dimensions to start with, then go from there.
I hope, I can open up the inside of the hammer spring tunnel, I need .420" I/S dia to work, as I want to use my Flat wire spring, very soft and easy bolt operating, but have all the power needed to work perfectly, with NO heavy/hard bolt pull.
A 18# FW spring 6" long, goes coil bound in 1.030", then I'll add a SSG for tuning.
I measured and bored the inside of the spring tunnel out .010" to .015" in dia,
for the Flat Wire springs and look to see if I can install a SSG for tuning etc.
I tore it down and removed the OEM hammer/spring,
did some careful measuring of the hammer spring tunnel,
I had to open it up to .420" I/S diameter, I only removed .020" of material,
the hammer was not harden and cut very easy with Carbide tooling.
After boring the spring tunnel out, I polished the inside and also polished
the inside of the pressure tube, where the hammer was operating in,
that had lots of burrs and very rough etc.
Cleaned everything up added some lube and reinstalled the hammer
and a 5" long, 11# Flat Wire Spring, had to make a new Delrin spring guide also.
(OEM Hammer spring is 18/19#'s at max compression, (coil bound), 3.150" long, .390" dia O/S dim, x .300" I/S dim, with 15 coils.)
I did a my usual 5 shot/5 pump chrono test and was very surprised,
here is the test results, a running total,
1. OEM stock
2. Pump head lengthened 1 full turn,
3. Open hammer spring tunnel added a 11# Flat wire spring.
I just got thru running a chrono test (OEM STOCK RIFLE) on my new Dragon Fly II (Refub),
and got these results, with my Chinese chrono:
1. Chrono test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 546 fps for Crosman HP,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 640 fps for the same above ammo.
This chrono test is with the pump head lengthened 1 full turn from the OEM setting,
2. Chrono Test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 556 fps for the Crosman HP,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 668 fps for the same ammo.
This chrono test was with the hammer spring tunnel opened to .420",
and with a 11# Flat wire spring, 5" long, .415" O/S Dia, .252" I/S dia, 35 coils,
.23" thick Flat wire, same ammo as above,
#3. Chrono test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 631 fps for the Crosman HP pellets,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 684fps for the same ammo.
I have been using Flat Wire springs for several years now,
these spring have all the power needed and fit into a very compact space,
a 5" long spring will go coil bound in 1.030" of length. And they are very easy to cock the bolt, if you go slightly too short when testing, a couple of flat washers bring the power back, or make a Alum spacer.
These springs come in a multitude of power ratings and sizes,
and almost all of them are less than .420" O/S diameter and have a .250" I/S bore hole so they can be used with a SSG, when needed. I contact the seller and find out the spec's on these springs.
When using these FW Springs, use/test at full length, then if required, click off 1/4' to 1/2" and retry, until the power and ease of cocking fit what you need.
Here is the 11# spring, I am using now,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/292643337337?
There is a bunch here,
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Flat+wire+recoil+springs&_sacat=0&_sop=15
This chrono test #4 was with the spring tunnel opened to .420",
and with a 18/19# OEM STOCK SPRING, same ammo as used before.,
(OEM Hammer spring is 18/19#'s at max compression, (coil bound), 3.150" long, .390" dia O/S dim, x .300" I/S dim, with 15 coils.)
#4. Chrono test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 552 fps for the Crosman HP pellets
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 645 fps for the same ammo.
#1. Chrono test (OEM Stock)
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 546 fps for Crosman HP,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 640 fps for the same above ammo.
This chrono test is with the pump head lengthened 1 full turn from the OEM setting,
#2. Chrono Test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 556 fps for the Crosman HP,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 668 fps for the same ammo.
This chrono test was with the hammer spring tunnel opened to .420",
and with a 11# Flat wire spring, 5" long, .415" O/S Dia, .252" I/S dia, 35 coils,
.23" thick Flat wire, same ammo as above,
#3. Chrono test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 631 fps for the Crosman HP pellets,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 684fps for the same ammo.
#4. Chrono test = OEM Spring, spring tunnel hole opened to .420" dia.
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 552 fps for the Crosman HP pellets
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 645 fps for the same ammo.
This rifle seems to be smoothing out with some shooting,
when pumping I was closing the handle every time, on all shots.
There is a major difference in bolt cocking resistance between these springs.
I'll run this spring until all chrono/tests are finished,
the next test will be standardizing all TP holes,
which will be .140"?
More info about the DF II and Storm Rider rifles.
Th DF II has a hammer travel distance of 1.100",
and the valve stem protrusion of .180".
The Storm Rider 22 cal has a hammer travel of 1.010",
with a hammer spring of 3.360" long, 6# compression weight to coil bound,
.390" O/S dia, .300" I/S dia, 25 coils, .036" wire thickness.
Valve stem protrusion is .110"
I am using a 11# Flat Wire spring and have seen the FPS increase,
to a max of 684 FPS w/14 gr Crosman pellets.
I haven't checked my other Storm Rider 17 cal rifle and I have a Varmint rifle
in 22 cal on the hammer spring spec's.
Once I finish that, I'll add the info here, hopefully this will help the next shooter coming along, I have a strange bug for a DF II in the following calibers 17-20-22-25.
I know that a DF II will become a 20 cal to tease my Dan's............LOL
I just finished the 1 thru 10 pumps x 3 tests each per pump step, with these results, with Crosman 14 gr ammo, pumps were a complete cycle, open then closed arm pump arm, per pump stroke.
11# Flat Wire spring, full 5" length, 1 complete turn on pump rod,
spring tunnel hole opened to .420" dia, nothing else changed.
1 pump = 288 fps
2 pumps= 321 fps
3 pumps= 354 fps
4 pumps= 561 fps>? (JDLR)
5 pumps= 597fps
6 pumps= 610fps
7 pumps =616fps
8 pumps =620fps
9 pumps =656fps
10 pumps =688fps
No remaining air in pressure tube for any shot. I just hope that the accuracy is there, so far every shot taken has impacted the targets out to 50 yds, this is with iron sights which are hard for me to see........
Your thoughts and suggestions............
Tia,
Don
I have never bought a Refurb before, hated to use the rat hole funds
as I was saving it for something..........LOL
At least the worst it can be, is a parts rifle for a new one............LOL
And the Dan's will be happy, having a Big brother around, even if he is an odd caliber........
Here is the condensed version from GTA
Every screw was loose with the exception of the 2 buttstock screws,
the wooden handle had all screws loose, and one screws was found inside the shipping box, along with the muzzle nuts that holds the front sight on and also the bbl holding screws.
I checked and tighten all screws, then shot the first chrono test.
The first chrono test of my new Dragon Fly II 22 cal (Refub),
and got these results, with my Chinese chrono:
1st Chrono test (OEM stock)
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 546 fps for Crosman HP, 14gn ammo.
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 640 fps for the same above ammo.
Then I dropped a brand new can of 500 pellets in the dirt...................
Now I am playing pick up pellets..............
But, I have a base line to work with...lol
Every time when the bbl was pointed up or down, from inside pressure tube,
I could hear a metallic chink and it was driving me crazy, WHY, WHAT is it,
some more stuff loose etc etc?
Seeing that I was house bound due to bad weather outside, out come the tools, clean Old bed sheet spread on the work table, a hot cup of Jo at the side and I started tearing apart the pump end of the DF II.
The 2 tiny Allen head screws are a bear to get loose, M3/0.50 pitch bevel headed screws, are butter soft, (have to replace them now), get them before the tear down, unscrewed the muzzle nut and the front sight slid off the bbl.
Removed the Jesus "C" clip, then removed the pivot rod, then removed the center double headed Allen screw pin, in the pressure tube, Careful, there is 1 flat spring washer on each end, pulled out the pin.
This allowed the center pump rod to move toward the muzzle end and then drift out the pin that connects to the center pump rod, (top hole). Pushed the center pump rod out of the pressure tube and out fell a pin (same size as the center pump rod pin), MY rattle stopped.
It appears that this pin was dropped inside the pump rod slot in the pressure tube when being assembled, and just left there..........
The center pump rod is a solid alum rod with a slot cut lengthwise down thru the center, approximately 7" long, and is threaded and lock nutted into the end, for the alum pump head, which has "O" ring set into the pump head, for sealing etc..
I marked and measured the depth of this pump rod, which was 6-5/8" long,
before I tore into it. I measured the depth to the face of the valve
and had a measurement of over 7-1/4", there is over 7/8" inch of compression tube not being used. (Loss of fps/fpe)?
I hate wasting the 1" of compression space, the pump head is not using.
The front of the pump rod/pressure head just clears the air hole in the pressure tube when pumping, as can be seen when opening the pump arm when the rifle is upside down.
The limiting factor at this time is the amount of distance between the end of the pump face and the air intake hole of the pressure tube.
On my rifle, I only have approximately .130" of space left before the pump head blocks the air intake hole.
I have already lengthened this distance by 1 full turn, (still have to do a chrono test), but I don't know the thread count to figure out this amount of movement.
I will take it out to the maximum distance and do another chrono test to see the results.
The only other option is to redesign the valve, make it longer to use up the excess empty space of the pressure tube to the pump head at it's extended length etc.
I'll do some careful measurements of the valve dimensions, when I get to the valve out.
So being curious, I undid the lock nut, use a HD nylon webbing strap around the pump head and lengthened it 1 full turn and inserted it into the pressure tube, to the mark I made before I dismantled it, no contact was made with the valve head, I pushed the pump rod in (deeper) as far down the pressure tube and had over 7/8" of extra room before contact with the valve.
At this time it appears that there is only the 1-2 screws holding the valve in place, which are the ones in the steel block right in front of the trigger.
I won't know for sure until I get to that area etc.
I tighten everything back down and reassembled it, but not before fixing the sloppy wooden pump handle to the pump handle steel bar. I cut some flat strips of harden plastic into .500" wide x 5-1/2" long and .025" thick. I checked on which side had the largest gap and stuffed a strip on each side,
checked and then added a .010" thick strip to the side that still had a gap.
I used a drill bit that fit into the steel handle bar hole and reamed the plastic holes to fit.
Inside the wooden pump arm, center leg of the pump arm, there is a milled quarter moon cam, on the steel pump arm, the end of that cam arm has a roller that operates inside this cam, to assist with the pumping.
Mine looked pretty rough, not smooth cut in the machining.
After doing a double check on the length measurements, I'll lengthen to the safe length on the pump head, and I'll get all the measurements of the valve, spring etc. And I'll do another chrono test for the results.
I know for sure that the Dan's air passage holes are .146" for the bbl and .184" for the valve, with a valve length of 2.875" and inside dia of .500", air inlet hole of the valve head is .085".
Tightened up the pump arm screws and "What a difference", nice and tight
and the wooden pump arm is centered down the pressure tube and matches the butt stock width etc.
Updated info: Here is a new diagram of the Dragon Fly II rifle,
https://www.pyramydair.com/model-schematic/m/seneca-dragonfly-mk2-multi-pump-air-rifle/5170
"WATCH THE PRICES" OUCH............
Here is some more information on the DF II
Bbl TP hole is .134" Dia,
Action TP Hole is .134" Dia,
Brass TP has a hole Dia of .136" x .295" tall x .356" dia,
w/a step on each end that fits into a rubber "O" ring on the action and the valve, for sealing both areas.
Hammer spring is 18/19#'s at max compression, (coil bound), 3.150" long,
.390" dia O/S dim, x .300" I/S dim, with 15 coils.
Hammer weight is 876 grains x .760" dia, with a spring tunnel hole of .395" diameter.
Main valve is 2.520" long x .765" dia, and has a TP hole of .136" with an inside spring with a plastic pointed cone and a 2 piece shaft, metal shaft fits inside the poppet seal.
I almost forgot this bit of valve information,
To remove the valve, it has to come out the front of the pressure tube,
there is 2 crimp marks the valve seats against at the rear end of the valve,
that block the valve from coming out the rear end of the pressure tube..
I'll open up the TP and all other holes to .140 as a standard dimensions to start with, then go from there.
I hope, I can open up the inside of the hammer spring tunnel, I need .420" I/S dia to work, as I want to use my Flat wire spring, very soft and easy bolt operating, but have all the power needed to work perfectly, with NO heavy/hard bolt pull.
A 18# FW spring 6" long, goes coil bound in 1.030", then I'll add a SSG for tuning.
I measured and bored the inside of the spring tunnel out .010" to .015" in dia,
for the Flat Wire springs and look to see if I can install a SSG for tuning etc.
I tore it down and removed the OEM hammer/spring,
did some careful measuring of the hammer spring tunnel,
I had to open it up to .420" I/S diameter, I only removed .020" of material,
the hammer was not harden and cut very easy with Carbide tooling.
After boring the spring tunnel out, I polished the inside and also polished
the inside of the pressure tube, where the hammer was operating in,
that had lots of burrs and very rough etc.
Cleaned everything up added some lube and reinstalled the hammer
and a 5" long, 11# Flat Wire Spring, had to make a new Delrin spring guide also.
(OEM Hammer spring is 18/19#'s at max compression, (coil bound), 3.150" long, .390" dia O/S dim, x .300" I/S dim, with 15 coils.)
I did a my usual 5 shot/5 pump chrono test and was very surprised,
here is the test results, a running total,
1. OEM stock
2. Pump head lengthened 1 full turn,
3. Open hammer spring tunnel added a 11# Flat wire spring.
I just got thru running a chrono test (OEM STOCK RIFLE) on my new Dragon Fly II (Refub),
and got these results, with my Chinese chrono:
1. Chrono test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 546 fps for Crosman HP,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 640 fps for the same above ammo.
This chrono test is with the pump head lengthened 1 full turn from the OEM setting,
2. Chrono Test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 556 fps for the Crosman HP,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 668 fps for the same ammo.
This chrono test was with the hammer spring tunnel opened to .420",
and with a 11# Flat wire spring, 5" long, .415" O/S Dia, .252" I/S dia, 35 coils,
.23" thick Flat wire, same ammo as above,
#3. Chrono test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 631 fps for the Crosman HP pellets,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 684fps for the same ammo.
I have been using Flat Wire springs for several years now,
these spring have all the power needed and fit into a very compact space,
a 5" long spring will go coil bound in 1.030" of length. And they are very easy to cock the bolt, if you go slightly too short when testing, a couple of flat washers bring the power back, or make a Alum spacer.
These springs come in a multitude of power ratings and sizes,
and almost all of them are less than .420" O/S diameter and have a .250" I/S bore hole so they can be used with a SSG, when needed. I contact the seller and find out the spec's on these springs.
When using these FW Springs, use/test at full length, then if required, click off 1/4' to 1/2" and retry, until the power and ease of cocking fit what you need.
Here is the 11# spring, I am using now,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/292643337337?
There is a bunch here,
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Flat+wire+recoil+springs&_sacat=0&_sop=15
This chrono test #4 was with the spring tunnel opened to .420",
and with a 18/19# OEM STOCK SPRING, same ammo as used before.,
(OEM Hammer spring is 18/19#'s at max compression, (coil bound), 3.150" long, .390" dia O/S dim, x .300" I/S dim, with 15 coils.)
#4. Chrono test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 552 fps for the Crosman HP pellets
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 645 fps for the same ammo.
#1. Chrono test (OEM Stock)
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 546 fps for Crosman HP,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 640 fps for the same above ammo.
This chrono test is with the pump head lengthened 1 full turn from the OEM setting,
#2. Chrono Test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 556 fps for the Crosman HP,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 668 fps for the same ammo.
This chrono test was with the hammer spring tunnel opened to .420",
and with a 11# Flat wire spring, 5" long, .415" O/S Dia, .252" I/S dia, 35 coils,
.23" thick Flat wire, same ammo as above,
#3. Chrono test
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 631 fps for the Crosman HP pellets,
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 684fps for the same ammo.
#4. Chrono test = OEM Spring, spring tunnel hole opened to .420" dia.
5 shot group at 5 pumps averaged 552 fps for the Crosman HP pellets
5 shot group at 10 pumps averaged 645 fps for the same ammo.
This rifle seems to be smoothing out with some shooting,
when pumping I was closing the handle every time, on all shots.
There is a major difference in bolt cocking resistance between these springs.
I'll run this spring until all chrono/tests are finished,
the next test will be standardizing all TP holes,
which will be .140"?
More info about the DF II and Storm Rider rifles.
Th DF II has a hammer travel distance of 1.100",
and the valve stem protrusion of .180".
The Storm Rider 22 cal has a hammer travel of 1.010",
with a hammer spring of 3.360" long, 6# compression weight to coil bound,
.390" O/S dia, .300" I/S dia, 25 coils, .036" wire thickness.
Valve stem protrusion is .110"
I am using a 11# Flat Wire spring and have seen the FPS increase,
to a max of 684 FPS w/14 gr Crosman pellets.
I haven't checked my other Storm Rider 17 cal rifle and I have a Varmint rifle
in 22 cal on the hammer spring spec's.
Once I finish that, I'll add the info here, hopefully this will help the next shooter coming along, I have a strange bug for a DF II in the following calibers 17-20-22-25.
I know that a DF II will become a 20 cal to tease my Dan's............LOL
I just finished the 1 thru 10 pumps x 3 tests each per pump step, with these results, with Crosman 14 gr ammo, pumps were a complete cycle, open then closed arm pump arm, per pump stroke.
11# Flat Wire spring, full 5" length, 1 complete turn on pump rod,
spring tunnel hole opened to .420" dia, nothing else changed.
1 pump = 288 fps
2 pumps= 321 fps
3 pumps= 354 fps
4 pumps= 561 fps>? (JDLR)
5 pumps= 597fps
6 pumps= 610fps
7 pumps =616fps
8 pumps =620fps
9 pumps =656fps
10 pumps =688fps
No remaining air in pressure tube for any shot. I just hope that the accuracy is there, so far every shot taken has impacted the targets out to 50 yds, this is with iron sights which are hard for me to see........
Your thoughts and suggestions............
Tia,
Don
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