Impact - Remove Valve Housing?

[mtnGhost]

I figured this was worth its own thread. TL;DR - what is the procedure to remove the valve housing from the tube on an Impact, when the tube is not stationary? 

Last night, I fixed an issue with my Impact that appears to have revolves around the valve adjustment screw. Although I got as far as removing the hammer, the socket cap screw at the top rear of my Impact that is suppose to tension the valve tube wasn't tensioning it very much at all. 

Rather than risk (1) damage from my vise holding the tube down (2) torquing the rear, through/tensioner screw too much and stripping the aluminum threads on the body, I just left it alone until I had a better plan in place to remove it.

Normally, I'd throw something like this in my vise and hit it with a little heat to soften the thread locker, but I figured it would be smarter to get feedback from others, since this is an HPA section.

 

[capefeargunr]

Go ahead and tighten the clamp screw that holds the tube, 4mm Allen. Then hold the tube in one hand and the rear block in the other twist counter clockwise to loosen the valve housing from the valve tube, then continue screw the two pieces apart. Should not be loctited. When fully reassembled the top rail helps keep everything in place.

 

[capefeargunr]

Might want to check the FX Masterclass series on YouTube. Ernest Rowe covers it pretty good.

 

[heavy-impact]

+1 for no thread locker on the valve block.

 

[mtnGhost]

Might want to check the FX Masterclass series on YouTube. Ernest Rowe covers it pretty good.

I watched all of them, he didn't cover this edge case scenario.

 

[mtnGhost]

Go ahead and tighten the clamp screw that holds the tube, 4mm Allen. Then hold the tube in one hand and the rear block in the other twist counter clockwise to loosen the valve housing from the valve tube, then continue screw the two pieces apart. Should not be loctited. When fully reassembled the top rail helps keep everything in place.

I torqued it down as tight as it would go, and then a little more. I didn't use my torque wrenches measure just how tight I had it, but I know the steel on these class 12.9 socket cap screws would rip the threads right out of the frame if I pushed it any further.

If this isn't a common issue with a better procedure, I suppose the next time I have it apart I'll try and hold it with another rubber oil filter strap that has a larger contact area than the one I tried with. My last resort would be wrapping it with leather / thin rubber sheet and clamping it into my vise (just hoping I don't have to go to that extreme).

 

[capefeargunr]

 https://youtu.be/TjLeO7O8DA0



Go to 4:55 and start from there. I have never seen one so tight it can’t be loosened by hand, but there is always a first time. If you have to clamp anything start with the rear block and use something to protect it.

 

[heavy-impact]

It should not be that tight. Pull the valve out of the rear block, put the tube in a padded vise and use a large screwdriver through the valve housing slots to break it free.

Reassemble only hand tight without thread locker.