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Tuning Impact problem brand new gun - and a rant

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caesar

caesar

Member
Jul 28, 2020
101
24
MI, United States
Got a brand new Impact. MK II with power plenum. 

I noticed as I’m shooting that velocities are dropping off slightly, then more. I’m talking almost 200fps. 950 to 775ish. My spread almost 50fps out of the box. Hmmm...

I found the problems. Two of them actually.

First, the reloading bar is spinning freely and it was pushing the probe further and further back. It started to bark near the TP. I adjusted it back to where it was, luckily I had marked where the probe was with a sharpie when I first got the gun. Velocities back up to 850-870. How do I keep the reloading bar from spinning freely? Blue loctite on the front thread? I don’t see a set screw.

Some thing still not right so I kept looking.

found the C1 is also freely spinning in my hand. I tightened it down by hand to 6.15mm from the block. Still have the gun apart. Is the C1 also supposed to have blue loctite on it? I don’t have the tools really to tighten it without scaring the valve stem.

You know I love the FX guns but I bought the Impact because of a problem I’m having with my Dreamline. it’s currently on its way to FX USA for the second time in a couple months to fix the same problem it was just in for.

errr FX I’m really frustrated. These guns are amazing engineering feat, but the quality control sure seems to be lacking in a pretty big way.
 
Thats why I stay away from FX I am not a tinker, I always said when they work out the bugs on the Impact I was going to buy one, Well with all the Orings Maybe invent some better O rings that do not leak, Or is that a Q/C problem...

And I guess it would not hurt to invent better O rings ,,,, 

I hope you get to work out your problems and get to shoot you new gun,

Mike
 
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thanks for all the insight gents.

I definitely found the problems. Just did a quick 10 shot string. It’s making more power now than it did out of the box. I’m not used to this kind of power! First shot with 29gr NSA’s 990fps. Regulator 118bar. Wowsers! the gun is quiet too.


I didn’t loctite the C1, still not sure if I am going to put the hammer spacers in from the slug power kit or not. Maybe if I decide to shoot heavier slugs. I got it tight though.

now for some tuning. 
 
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Ernest puts a piece of an o-ring down the C1 and then applies locktight to it, before screwing it back on the valve rod, so it never comes loose on it's own. I did the same after mine came loose after many thousands of shots. I suggest locktight on the c1 they used to use a set screw on it to keep it in place. Now I believe locktight is posed to be used.

I made a small 1.25mm hammer spring space,r out of brass, and it increased velocity quite a bit. Don't always need that but after my valve spring mod, MK1 to MK2 style, I can just put a heavier valve spring on to bring the velocity back down for smaller calibers or lower power. If you don't need them don't use them.
 
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thanks for all the insight gents.

I definitely found the problems. Just did a quick 10 shot string. It’s making more power now than it did out of the box. I’m not used to this kind of power! First shot with 29gr NSA’s 990fps. Regulator 118bar. Wowsers! the gun is quiet too.


I didn’t loctite the C1, still not sure if I am going to put the hammer spacers in from the slug power kit or not. Maybe if I decide to shoot heavier slugs. I got it tight though.

now for some tuning.
Click to expand...

Hi Ceaser,

Please do not forget that we have technicians available Mon - Fri you can E-mail or Phone in to help with your tuning if you are finding some difficulties with your new gun. We also have Masterclass videos set up on our Youtube channel!

Contact information for Customer Service/Technicians 

Phone: +1 866 639 0772
[email protected]


Regards, 

FX Airguns USA
 
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I am speculating now...trying to say this may not be directly the FX manufacturing error...maybe the dealers were testing ...let say for leaks?

Or the dealers were rebuilding (even partially), because all over the globe there are so many different regulations, it is hard for me to believe they will be making 243 pieces for this country, 89 pieces for that country, 411 pieces for whichever country (pictorial expression)...I believe there could also be a generic built model and the locals "customizing" according to local specs...and here the humans errors can surface?

We need to understand that they making relatively large volumes, the assembled and boxed "toys" were sitting in a warehouse until next release date, maybe for weeks or months...

Next, I am not an expert with export/imports, but may be a same or similar situation as with batteries = no air shipping...

Maybe there are regulations prohibiting a charged airtank to be shipped just anyhow and maybe these were filled locally? But the orings uncompressed during all these time.

Maybe, maybe....I don't know the entire process how these getting from Sweden to your hands, I am only suspecting these errors coming from honest misstakes = from local dealers.

Now, please, I didn't meant to point out my finger, but...

Even myself I had a leak, this was my first PCP, costed me arms and legs, it was a bit of a shock for myself too, but I put my ego aside and my Impact never got back to a dealer, and I learned everything here on the forum and fix it myself, and finally I am very glad that I chose that way ;)
 
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I was going to make joke about buying a VW and being surprise by a check-engine light...
Click to expand...


I can see a picture, but I still have that 2003 VW Golf TDi MK4 in front of my house, 465K KM on it, and I have a stage 4 chip tune with an upgrade turbo, intercooler, ceramic clutch...performance summer and performance winter tires on it...high torque on the diezel? when you start smelling the asphalt...priceless ;)
 
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I am speculating now...trying to say ...

...dealers were rebuilding (even partially)...

..."customizing" according to local specs...

...and here the humans errors can surface?
... these were filled locally?
Click to expand...

I remember the time when I gave a first visit to my local FX dealer, unscheduled, I left from work and just sit in a car and drove two hours to that door. I wanted to have a first eye contact and have it in my hands what I am dreaming about.

So I got there, of course the FX sales/service guy wasn't there, so any other guy from a counter jumped in, "how can I help you?"

I had some questions reading first couple weeks on this Forum, they guy is saying he is not an expert for FX but he really worked hard to give me what I came for. The didn't had the Impact but he show me tyhe Dreamline which is "similar". Finally when I asked him how the replacing the liner looks like (at that time I wasn't sure which cal I will be ending), and that was a priceless moment seeing him turning the gun around looking for a screw to loosen...he told me he's specialty is a another brand...but that was OK with me at the moment. Several months later I got my Impact from the same dealer.

So #1 based on this story, and to add a #2 scenario as I am speculating FX shipping generic assembled guns and #3 the dealers job is to power it up and do final inspection...I would not jump the rope and start acusing FX of any minor things...

Also, Not every dealer have a dedicated person for FX, when the skids (boxed sets) arrived to theire warehouse they will not do all the FX guns all at once but more likely on a spare time... they will fillup the airtanks and let the gun sit overnight... and eventually if that was underlined in the sales contract they may be tuning it for you. (my dealer offer that option to me for extra $$ I sad this could be a good learning curve for me so no thx) And finally not necessarily a dedicated FX service guy will inspect for leaks. But honestly...Why to have a FX trained technician to fillup the air and inspect for leaks? Just anybody in the store can do that whoever is free at the moment?

I believe something like these may be a reason for any possible leaks out of a box, or better no loctite on screws...I don't know, I am only speculating ;)

btw, I would never do loctite I would put a bee wax instead, I know myself, this is my LEGO toy
 
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This is nuts for what one of these things cost. 

They should just start including a tube of thread locker with the guns. Y'all are dedicated to the brand. I'll give you that.
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Thread locker for what? won't go anywhere....

First two times I swap the brass transfer port on the barrel to install a Huma dual port I learned that just don't use a thread locker....maybe some internal threads maybe yes, but I know what parts I would be removing or replacing...

Why to put a threadlocker on C1? next time you need to remove need a torch to heat up that thin threaded rod + wash and dry clean it + use a threadlocker again?....and again and again.

Buy a pure bees string wax from an archery store a small stick will last you two lifetimes...
 
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This is nuts for what one of these things cost. 

They should just start including a tube of thread locker with the guns. Y'all are dedicated to the brand. I'll give you that.
Click to expand...


Thread locker for what? won't go anywhere....

First two times I swap the brass transfer port on the barrel to install a Huma dual port I learned that just don't use a thread locker....maybe some internal threads maybe yes, but I know what parts I would be removing or replacing...

Why to put a threadlocker on C1? next time you need to remove need a torch to heat up that thin threaded rod + wash and dry clean it + use a threadlocker again?....and again and again.

Buy a pure bees string wax from an archery store a small stick will last you two lifetimes...
Click to expand...

Most people including the factory (almost always) use threadlocker on the c1. As it gets constantly pounded by the hammer. I guess that prevents it from backing out and taking some threads with it.

Do what you want with your gun but suggesting others don't need loctite there is a bit silly. They have backed out causing damage it's well documented.
 
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Most people including the factory (almost always) use threadlocker on the c1. As it gets constantly pounded by the hammer. I guess that prevents it from backing out and taking some threads with it.

...suggesting others don't need loctite there is a bit silly....
Click to expand...


You are right, sorry people, I suppose explain bit into details

Most likely me neither had a threadlocker at a first time because the C1 moved on me at very first month or so I put it myself...

Several weeks later I had to take out the C1 again but possible only by heating it up with a torch.

Then I saw Ernest trick to fill the hole with a chunk of oring, and I used that trick in combination with the bees wax for first time. Never moved again.

Since I toke it apart maybe 3-4 times, not moving.

What is about that move/turning issue? That is a very small 2.5 mm thread (if I remember well, or maybe 3 mm).

In order to keep it from turning the C1 you just need to apply some thicker gritty paste only to give it a heavier friction. I bet even a tooth paste would be enough but a nail polish for sure will stop it turning.

This I meant to say no need for a threadlocker or blue loctyte thingies on a thin thread like that, because when you want to or need to remove next time if you heat that small thin thread too many times aggressively it may become too brittle for the tip which was intend to absorb some shocks if hitting the rubber ball hard... and brittle is no bueno neither,

Couple months ago we had one of our guys had that tip broke probably for this reason, stoty maybe or one of the other popular name?

btw...Glem

M3x0.5 means two full revolutions either CW or CCW = 1mm which is withing the tolerance of the valve rod stroke, you can loose your tune but still steel safe. Hard to believe the C1 will turn itself that amount of two turns to create a physical damage...unless the user didn't measure it last time when put it back blind... Just saying.
 
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You can slip a small piece of fishing line inside the length of the C1. As you thread it onto the valve rod the fishing line will crush against the inner thread walls of the C1, providing the same locking method as a typical lock nut from your local hardware store. 

If you attempt this, use the lightest test fishing line, like for catching bluegill!

if you can find nylon string that’s even better
 
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